Anucci Man by Anucci, 1989

Anucci (neither the box nor bottle has the word "Man" on it) possesses that rarest of fragrance traits: uniqueness, a trait that I admire in all of the arts. Some others have astutely noted some passing similarities to other floral fragrances, but Anucci really does tread its own path. The perfume industry, especially the designer output, is predicated upon first impressions. The top notes are the focus of marketing, research and production: hook 'em in the first minute, when most shoppers decide whether or not to buy. If the frag reminds them of another popular item, so much the better. Anucci goes in the other direction. Out of the chute, this is perfumey and old school, tipping its hand as non-contemporary. It's even a bit feminine, heaven forbid. It's pretty clear that this isn't focus-group tested on the Justin Bieber generation, since few young men today would gravitate toward this sharp floral opening. Lavender and citrus compose the first duet and they trade fours for quite a while. Foetidus is spot on: Anucci is better as it wafts up from your skin rather than while being sniffed up close. Longevity is tenacious as well. Anucci is encyclopedic and complex. It's a citrus and a floral but also a fougere, with a distinct powdery backdrop as if Jade East stopped by for a quick drink and decided to stay awhile. This barbershop note adds traditional masculinity to an otherwise unisex party. This is successful where something such as Chaz is not. It blends seemingly disparate elements by keeping everything in motion, each ingredient seamlessly passing the baton to its partner. Nice work and affordable to boot. This should be better known and I recommend it to all old-schoolers.

This is one of those fragrances that should not be smelled too close to the skin its sillage is much improved away from the source. Smelled close, the opening is confused and muddled to my nose, and I mostly smell lavender in a not-too-wonderful accord. But caught as whiffs rising a bit distantly from the source, the accord is very attractive. I find Anucci Man difficult to deconstruct, but the lavender is apparent, the patchouli is probable and the florals provide body to the accord without smelling at all flowery. Im pretty sure that the reason I am unimpressed with the opening is the prominent oakmoss and lavender a combination that I never care for up close and personal, but I can sometimes enjoy it from a distance. The oak moss makes Anucci a bit dated, and its dominance to my nose also tends to make it linear for me. But in regard to its quality, I must say that I find it surreal that I have the old fashioned combination of lavender and oakmoss on my skin and I am not attempting to rigorously wash it off Actually Im enjoying it as long as I dont put my nose too close to the source.

I never get the citrus or distinct floral notes in the opening or heart of Anucci I get a lavender / oakmoss supported by background mixed florals and a strange note possibly the chamomile... possibly caraway. This opening / heart accords last for a few hours and then moves to soft, floral / musk drydown that still carries more than a trace of oakmoss and the total effect is quite enjoyable. I dont get much powder just an excellent musky floral.

Anucci is an interesting, enjoyable, competently put-together fragrance that presents several notes I tend to dislike, but it somehow manages to carry them off beautifully. Im impressed.