Proudly classicist and grand in scale like Habit Rouge or the Amouage Jubilations, this is not so much a chypre as an exuberant floral with an overarching powdery vanilla sweetness. There's green bitterness and aldehydes to begin and just a hint of big cats as the fragrance dries down, which it does at an enviably debonair pace. MDCI continues to bless us with fragrances that are exquisitely crafted (by Betrand Duchaufour in this instance) and that smell like your favourite historical romance novel made flesh.
Chypre Palatin by MDCI, 2012
Rated #2281 in Fragrances
Chypre Palatin opens with a fizzy green, fruity-citrusy blast joined by sweetish vanillic notes and immediately brings to mind of classic french perfumery of the past. This feeling of deja-vu, though, it's not to be taken as lack of creativity but just as a sort of tribute to one of the most influential perfumery genres ever: chypre. The fragrance quilckly takes another direction and turns into a balmy musky floral that's structurally more modern yet still incredibly old-fashioned in smell. Indoles, dark musks and a moderate sweetness makes of Chypre Palatin a good option for men who'd like a masculine twist from their classic feminine chypres while still liking to be challenged. Complex, rich and solid. Good stuff.
Chypre Palatin is very beautiful. The opening is a notable dual bitter green/fruity accord, which is incredibly fleeting. Then a fast develpoment into the heart of the fragrance. A good dose of Iris, powdery and dry, and rose, over a woody resinous base with a prevailing Iris/Leather accord. Beautifully pitched. Very luxurious. This phase lasts many hours till eventually the deep drydown is a very lovely vanilla with sweet balsams and castoreum, but the heart of floral leather is still present too. If you awake to this drydown it is like awaking from a dream of a magical encounter which still lingers on your skin. It is hauntingly beautiful at that stage. Longevity, as you may have guessed, is excellent. I agree with drseid. I don't experience this fragrance as a chypre. It wasn't what I expected at all. I was also surprised that this is marketed as a masculine. This is a very romantic fragrance. I think that it would be beautiful on both women and men.
Goes on with a blast of either tarragon or lime-like aldehydes with maybe just a hint of orange well in the background, barely detectable. The scent almost immediately turns mild to moderately powdery, most likely due to iris being a key heart note and it makes its appearance extremely early, while hanging around throughout. The powdery iris couples with rose and jasmine before joining with a small amount of oakmoss peeping into the scent's heart from the base notes. The oakmoss remains in the base, while also featuring a decent dose of castoreum that is well-integrated, and a powdery vanilla that sweetens the scent just a tad, while never veering into the "too sweet" territory. Projection is average, while longevity is average to above average. Chypre Palatin is billed as a "throwback" vintage chypre, but I have to respectfully disagree. I find it quite modern, and that is my biggest problem with it. The powdery nature of the scent just does not remind me of the best chypres of old, instead Duchaufour plows new ground in having Chypre Palatin remain classy and elegant in its mild powdery nature throughout but it just does not mesh with my tastes. I personally like my chypres heavier on the oakmoss and lower on the powder showing a bit less polish and a bit more "spunk." While I won't be buying a bottle, I can see why many folks who have tried this have really fallen in love with it as it is top quality. If you like powdery modern scents Chypre Palatin is absolutely worth a sniff and maybe even a purchase if you can afford its relatively lofty price tag. I give Chypre Palatin a solid "good" rating and 3 to 3.5 out of 5 stars.
Chypre Palatin by MDCI, 2012
|Top Notes||Aldehydes, Clementine, Galbanum, Hyacinth, Labdanum, Lavender, Sage|
|Middle Notes||Gardenia, Iris, Jasmine, Plum, Rose|
|Base Notes||Benzoin, Castoreum, Oakmoss, Costus, Leather, Straw flower, Storax, Vanilla|
Start a guide on Chypre Palatin by MDCI, 2012!