Coromandel by Chanel, 2007

Coromondel won my heart with its fascinating candied fruit note and restrained patchouli. Orange jellybean patchouli. Marshmallow-y candied fruit peel patchouli. Dusty frankincense, heady wine, and crumbly earth patchouli. This is one of the most interesting presentations of patchouli, ever. A pillow-y, orange, musk, and vanilla base creates a fruity aroma that is sometimes candy-like and sometimes boozy like wine or liquor. The aroma of soil permeates the fragrance, with musty plant matter and dusty frankincense. The combination creates an unsettled accord that veers between creamy-sweet and earthy soil-like. Don't worry because it all works out when the patchouli steps forward and steers it down a definite, woody-sweet path that is long-lasting for an EDT. A very un-Chanel-like fragrance, Coromandel lacks the usual transparency, right from the start. It seems like Christopher Sheldrake made a Serge Lutens fragrance, only this time he used Chanel's house ingredients. The result is a multifaceted fragrance that is simple but sophisticated; the patchouli is controlled, as if the unwanted harsh notes were removed rather than covered, but the earthy notes that make it identifiable were allowed to remain and blended into a sweet, modern, attractive base. It might take some getting-used-to, not being what you would expect from Chanel, but it is intriguing and marks a move in a new direction toward the style of niche houses.

Top: citruses, bitter orange, neroli Heart: jasmine, rose, patchouli, orris Base: incense, olibanum, benzoin, woodsy notes, musk, Tahitian vanilla The moment I tried Coromandel, I fell head over heels in love with this fragrance. For about 2 hours, I kept smelling my wrist. The rich, sweet and exotic oriental concoction was so divinely intoxicating I almost rushed back to the Chanel boutique to buy the 200ml bottle. Then, with no warning, the musk note that had remained rather discreet up to that point suddenly appeared and ruined everything for me. As I often said before, I am not too big on animalic notes and musk is most certainly an ingredient that does not agree with me. I believe it is the combination of musk and jasmine that reacts badly on my skin. To my utter disappointment, this exclusive EDT I was so crazy about minutes before had turned into a rather uninteresting cheap-smelling musk-based fragrance. The friend who accompanied me to the store also tried Coromandel but with very different results. On her skin, the fragrance developed much better. The fresh yet zesty citrus notes were very present. More importantly, the dreadful musk note did not show up at all. However, it failed to do what any animalic note is intended to do i.e. give the fragrance longevity and stability. We both found Coromandel extremely pleasant on her but she did not buy it either due to its unfortunate lack of staying power. A third party was supposed to be with us that afternoon. Who knows? Maybe Coromandel would have fit him to a T!

Coromandel by Chanel - One is initially treated to wafts of peppery spiciness commingling with a somewhat camphoraceous, yet dirty, patchouli. This intriguing and inviting melange floats on an ephemeral cloud of salty fruitiness and spices of cloves and ginger. Aromatic woods, with hints of lemon verbena and minty laurel, serve as a backdrop to this stirring opening. Transitioning to the middle, the woods fade and wisps of florals, with violet-like iris, clover-like rose and sweetly seductive jasmine, interface with the musty earthiness of patchouli, which has taken on a clay-like facet. A nascent, vanillic amber sprinkles the melange, giving the florals a creamy texture, and coaxes a cocoa aspect of patchouli to rise up. Segueing to the robust base, balsamic woods, hay-like beeswax, herbaceous cinnamon, all intermingle and interplay with the vanillic and almond sweetness of benzoin. The heavy, resinous, sweetish amber has come into full bloom. A restrained smoky frankincense reels about. And, a chocolate-like tone presents from the interweaving of coumarin and patchouli. A delightsome drydown ensues. This high-quality composition is definitely unisex, if not leaning masculine, and has average projection and longevity. Its elegance will shine in the fall and winter.