Even the keenest admirer of Maurice Roucel and his magnolia accord, by which I mean me, can sometimes feel Hounded by Caramel, when encountering yet again this trick of floral sweetness. But when that moment of doubt about the Decline of the West into syrup has passed, this turns out ineffably frail and lovely, magnolia as the perfect nurse, slim and cool and soothing. Theres a surprising earth to it too, like finding a potato in the sugar jar. The drydown is as dull as a plastic table-cloth. I delayed comparison with the 1993 edp until the next morning, and this was a good policy, because the edp is so much richer in aspects, it casts 2009 into a pale, mildly simpering shade.