Wonderful animalic and dark leather. It's deep enough to make you think you're all covered by leather. The opening is a bit rancid leather, but then turns to a smoother leather with the tobacco note. Not an easy fragrance to wear, but beautifully constructed and blended. Sillage, lasting power and projection are medium-high.
Cuir De Russie by Chanel, 1924
Rated #71 in Fragrances
I have to fly a lot long distance for work and I am not a happy flyer. I need to find every possible way can to relax. Cuir de Russie is my travel scent. It is pure luxurious comfort. It smells like an old soft leather glove. I am transported to my happy place. Very warm and reassuring. It does not project to far, just as far as my nose when I move and I get a good 10 hours from it. One of the few scents that I cannot be without.
Cuir de Russie EDT is the most audacious purchase I have ever made, being a person who doesn't like leather, animalistic, dirty, or powdery and balmy. CdR is all of those things, and yet, I love it! It is a work of art that is a famous struggle between masculine and feminine. It's astounding, really- feminine powder stemming from florals, ylang ylang, and wood, juxtaposed completely with a rough, buff leather covered in dirt. How in the hell these two things come together, I don't know, but it really works. The leather is dirty, but not unpleasant. It's not off-putting, musky, or too heavy- it's an animal hide tanned into a jacket made for soldiers type of leather. I think the magic of Cuir de Russie is that it always keeps you guessing. One second it's bergamot, then it's powder, then leather, then it gets soapy. Repeat, repeat, mix it around, repeat. Easily the best Chanel Exclusif in my opinion, and one of the few leathers that I like. The only true downside is that it's so lavish, it's a bit hard to wear around other people. 9/10
Cuir de Russie Parfum Cuir de Russie is a masterpiece, and quoting another fellow reviewer from basenotes (of-scenter), it belongs to my pantheon of leathers. Its so beautifully done, the overdose of iris, the smoky birch tar with the citrus in the opening creating a sour animalic aura, its very dark and luxurious at the same time. An image that comes to my mind is Coco wearing a black patent leather cape over a white satin gown or even the famous Helmut Newton photo in witch the model is wearing a Couture Saint Laurent tuxedo. Beaux and Coco managed to capture the essence of the feminist movement and the free spirit of the contemporary woman, that is, the duality of femininity and amazone fighter. I can see the working girl that uses seduction as a weapon, the dominatrix controlling her male slave and even house wives that knows how to convince their husbands to do what they want. The strange thing its that its is so classical and modern at the same time, i think thats why it reminds me of Yves and Helmut Newton, the erotic gender bender game, women dressing as men, women taking control over their desires and taking care of their lives. I fell like it represents Coco's own personal way of life, financially independent but emotionally dependent of her lovers at the same time. CdR is a very feminine fragrance and you can smell that because its full of flowers but then again its so masculine, the flowers are very animalic, the birch is incredibly smokey and improper for a women and I think thats what makes this fragrance so grand and important. Its full of contradictions, its very personal, not the type of fragrance you would wear to attract someone but rather to satisfy your own desire. This fragrance and nº19 to me represents much more then nº5 whats Chanel is all about but unfortunately they doesn't get the attention they should specially Cuir de Russie... 5 out of 5
The scent of the British aristocracy, coming in from a day of riding or hunting to throw on a ball gown and dab a sophisticated scent on to cover the smell of the stable and of the cigarettes to be smoked during the night, that's what this smells like to me. I think Camilla Parker-Bowles as a young woman, or now--age is irrelevant with a scent like Cuir de Russie. One of my top 3 favorite fragrances of all time. To me it's very masculine yet feminine at the same time. So complex, at times it seems like my grandmother's cigarette-reeking vanity, then a stable, then it veers into an almost disagreeable area of the dirtiest of animalic notes, only to return to the pleasant side of smells carrying a bunch of subtly feminine but never sweet flowers. There's nothing sweet in this fragrance to me, yet it is still very feminine, which apparently is exactly what I look for in a fragrance. I like No. 5 better, but I don't like having one of the world's top-selling fragrances as a signature, so I'm considering making this mine. It smells even more expensive than No. 5 to me, too.
nothing particularly exciting and so utterly overpriced
Cuir de Russie (current edt version) opens with a nose burning blast of aldehydes with just the faintest hint of orange before an extremely animalic leather accord emerges in the heart notes. This leather is more of the fecal farmhouse animal stench variety and is somewhat difficult to tolerate. There also must be some iris in here, because I get just a faint hint of the powdery makeup accord I have experienced with other iris based scents. Luckily, the barnyard aspects of the scent recede in the base notes, and a much more pleasant smelling birch leather remains with just a hint of the powdery iris supporting it. Projection and longevity are both excellent. The opening of Cuir de Russie edt was difficult from the get-go and did not portend to good things to come. I tend to be quite sensitive to fecal aspects in scents (like my problem with Jicky, for example), and as such the heart notes with their fecal smelling leather and powdery iris were really not to my taste at all. If things stopped there this would be a definite thumbs down for me. What saves Cuir de Russie edt somewhat is it has a very nice dry-down that easily is the best part of the scent. Because of that, I will upgrade my rating to a tenuous neutral, but I am not a fan of this one at all. I think one should not have to put up with several hours of smelling like they were in a farmhouse barn before they get to "the good stuff." I'll be generous and give Cuir de Russie a very average 2.5 out of 5.
To me, this smells very much like Mitsouko - that unfortunate opening of adelhydic peachy mandarin, only more creamy. No leather, no sharpness to justify the mention of Russia, and during the drydown turns to just generically perfumey. Mitsouko is, of course, far more complex and unfolding, provocative ouverture to the roaring 20s, still decent and feminine despite the bobbed hair. I don't know what the pitch was for this one, but it's like a city girl going for the weekend in the country only to find a rich husband. Fake leather, pretend society girl. -------------------------------- Update, six months on: I think it has to be appreciated in regards to texture - think of it as soft nutty suede and its velvet delicacy seems entirely appropriate. An animalistic whiff on occasion, yes, but this is too elegant, too tame. I now imagine the youngest of four sisters, stuck at the country estate, horsey but even more so bookish, using flowers to disguise her tomboyish nerdy self. Like it, but I'm to vulgar to wear it.
I'm with Candide on this one - I love my CdR parfum, but I'd never wear it out of the house. This is a perfect fragrance for a rainy cold Sunday at home. It's just too feminine for me to wear in public, although I adore it.
I am a big fan of classic Chanel fragrances and as a rule, I can appreciate a good cuir perfume. That being said, Cuir de Russie does not agree with me at all. On my skin, the wispy leather note vanishes as soon as the dry-down begins. Then, a loud, heavy and unrefined musky jasmine note à la Samsara takes over and I reek for hours. I am so sorry. I wanted to like this fragrance so bad.
Cuir De Russie by Chanel, 1924
|Notes||Mandarin, Bergamot, Balsams, Spice Bush, Incense, Cade Wood, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang|
Start a guide on Cuir De Russie by Chanel, 1924!