Derby by Guerlain, 1985
Pros: Excellently balanced and sophisticated
This is a very nice, light summer scent - a green, woody effervescence that coalesces around a light and refreshing carnation/clove note -odd that neither of these is mentioned in the ingredients list, but are for me the most predominant notes in this creation.
Along with Guerlain's Vetiver (spicy and green - the very best available) and their Habit Rouge (dry citrus calming down to a moss), Derby completes the classic trio of their men's scents, stretching from 1959 to 1985. They would be best used in the following order: Habit Rouge for morning, Derby for early afternoon, Vetiver for evening.
Although perfectly nice and subtle, I can see why it failed in 1985. It was a quiet port in a storm of the scents of its time. Though hardly a masterpiece, as Luca Turin claims it to be, nor "one of the ten best masculines of all time," as he asserts, it is perfectly nice and a fine choice for the middle aged to older gentleman.
|Top Notes||Bergamot, Lemon, Artemisia, Peppermint|
|Middle Notes||Pimento, Rose, Pepper, Mace, Jasmin|
|Base Notes||Leather, Vetiver, Sandal, Patchouli, Moss|
|Perfumer||Jean Paul Guerlain|
|Bottle Designer||Robert Granai|