Diaghilev by Roja Dove, 2010

This is hands down one of the very very best contemporary chyprés available! It's created by one of the greatest parfumeurs today that brought us Unspoken, another chypré from his initial trilogy, which is THE reference for an outstanding and unforgettable labdanum drydown. Diaghilev was created as a limited edition and is now (January 2012) available as a refill only from Roja Dove directly. I do hope this will be available in his regular line for good! Thinking of another contemporary chypré that could rival Diaghilev's pole position, I would have to come up with Jean-Paul Guerlain's re-edition of Sous le Vent. If Mitsouko would want to compete here as well, she would have to come in the extrait form. The more I have worn Diaghilev, the better I can see the link to Mitsouko. The lemon and orange accord is so fruity that it really does evoke Mitsouko's plush peach (in the extrait). The chypré accord is clearly influenced to my nose by a patchouli treated the way only Roja Dove seems to manage (I have noticed this before). Sillage is good and comfortable initially and only gradually decreasing to classic chypré level (which is usually more of a skin scent) with very good longevity making this a daylong love affair. It's been praised many times on the web, but let me assure you - it is true! Diaghilev is a superb fragrance. Lovers of (fruity) chyprés simply should not miss this one!