I read that Luca Turin called l'Eau du Navigateur (1982) dated. He'd know better than I. I never smelled before 2013. Still, there is a distinction between dated, meaning era-specific, and tired, even if 'dated' has a negative connotation. Navigateur might be dated today, 32 years after its release, but it's held up well. To be innovative in 1982 and still smell good in 2013? Sounds successful. As a point of comparison Pink Sugar is both era-specific and tired, and was hardly innovative at the time of its release. There are worse things than dated. Does this make Navigateur the male equivalent of old lady perfume? I can live with that. I understand the classifications of the era: loud, spicy, woody as in Antaeus/Quorum/Krizia Uomo; basso fougere like Drakkar Noir and Azzaro pour Homme. I don't see Navigateur as just a crude precursor of more refined hybrids from the more discriminating 1990s. Rather, the ship landed on the shores of a new "oriental" with coffee in lieu of vanilla. One that predated the Serge Lutens new woody "oriental" from later in the decade. Coffee bridges culinary spice to resin via woodiness, just as vanilla does. And while Navigateur might also have heralded the gourmand era, its focus is the roasted coffee bean. No cotton candy, no frappuccino. We twist ourselves into knots to imagine that without oakmoss and coumarin the chypre and the fougere are still alive; witness the original Miss Dior Cherie, already redacted by Dior, and Penhaligon's Sartorial. If we want to view perfumery historically, I vote for acknowledging and embracing the extant, significant perfumes such as Navigateur. Learn from it and enjoy it while it's here. Who knows when the IFRA will limit coffee use? from scent hurdle.com
Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur, 1999
Rated #118 in Fragrances
Wearing this scent I am a 1950s librarian in a specialist collection of rare natural history books. I walk amongst waxed wooden shelves where clouds of vanillic lignin exhale from the pages of leather bound volumes. Theres a hint of ancient adhesives and glosses from the glorious illustrated plates. This stuff reeks of knowledge. With such marvelous scent commingling I feel comfortable, sexy, in control. Best worn with a vintage suit and catseye glasses, and with a readiness to shhhhh, but somehow no one has yet had the temerity to speak above a whisper. Whip crackingly good.
The most magical thing about Dzing! for me is the transparency of its main vanillic accord. All associations with wintry heaviness are abandoned, instead this wonderful, undoubtedly sweet, haylike vanilla is whipped up to a feathery lightness on the best soapy musks to be found, with a subtle suede-like leather coming up gently through its pores. The wowza and shazam of LArtisans write up of this one is little in evidence in the wearing of it which is supremely comfortable, not daring or shocking; I aint been to no circus that smelled like this. There are hints of papyrus, wood shavings and the smell of old objects (you know the kind of blunted, difficult to define odours that seem unique to certain antique things) in the mix, which bring both mystery and comfort. Dzing! just feels right from top to bottom. But the bottom is considerably thinner than the top mainly a clean cedar with the vanilla tones all but gone. A gem, but somewhat shy on the projection front.
Wow. Too horrible to describe. It was on me for two whole overpowering minutes. The opening was bad, so bad I had to wash it off immediately. I can only describe it as sweet, it was really so strong my mind just shut off in horror.
I was ready to be offended in a good way. Come at me, elephant droppings! Right over here, boatload of cardboard! What Dzing!(?) delivered? ... a gently droning public restroom ambience rather than much animalic or barnyard, a hint of the primate house at the zoo, sickening saffron and ginger, then on to cheap leather, second-day vanilla cigar smoke, and wet pizza box. That might work for an aromarama double feature engagement of Monkey Business and Slacker, but why pay time, money, and skin space for the joke? If this sort of thing excites you or shows up differently on your skin, maybe you'll like it. To me: this is really an incredibly stupid perfume, and I hate it. Twice as gimmicky as Secretions Magnifiques, but both suffer from sophomore album syndrome: the "hey this is going to be shocking, wait, watch," then delivering the most economically squeezed out, near-cynical recreation of its seemingly hyperbolic or hinting-at-something-more backstory. This doesn't smell like old books to me either, and I spend over half of my life around old books. Want to smell like old books? Buy a bunch from your local secondhand bookstore and rub them on yourself, smoke a pipe, or wear a leather perfume with cooking vanilla on top. Want a weird and exhilaratingly revolting fragrance? Angel. After repeat sniffs and wears I wonder if Dzing! is an Emperor without clothes for the smelly set or if, more likely, I just don't care to get it.
Some reviewers write that Dzing is evocative and effectively it is. Many talk about circensian conjurations and i see the association because of the olfactory sequence of leathery, animalic, somehow rubbery, green, mouldy and tasty whiffs. I have nevertheless to write that this complex juice reminds me prevalently the antique athenaeums' atmosphere with all their multi parfumed and variegate stuck aromas of mould, leather, hay (i think because of the saffron's influence), fornitures, tobacco, papirus and dust. The combination of honey (caramel-vanilla), saffron, cinnamon (?) and ginger is a dissonant-aromatic tasty magic. An intimate and introspective juice to be enjoyed on your own in the rarefied smoky and spicy atmosphere of a cozy intellectual ambience or inside a literary café.
First encountered this when I was given a "tour" of L'Artisan frags by the local rep in Chicago. She described Dzing! as a circus fragrance - cotton candy, horses, leather and hay. What???? Didn't believe her until I sniffed it. Boy, what she right on the money! It was the circus, sans the magician and tent. The cotton candy really is a sweet vanilla/tonka note surrounded by leather and civet. The novelty is found on me! Nothing else out there like this including Bulgari Black. My only complaint is that this is hard to wear. Perfect scent for the circus but if the circus has left town, then I'm hard-pressed to think of an occasion for which I could ever wear this. So novel and good it's beyond reproach. By far, the best fragrance in L'Aritsan's arsenal and the only one I own.
Strong powerful masculine leather - the truest "leather" scent I have yet found. For me it's one note, but that's no problem as it is true and long lasting. Can't imagine anyone finding all those negative scents in this, but to each nose his own. I love it - if you are into leather, you MUST at least sample this. Very masculine, sexy and smooth.
Where to start. I sampled this with interest after reading others views and reviews. How interesting thought I foolishly. Dzing opened on my with the overpowering fragrance of freshly passed stools of large vegetarian mammals. Fermenting grass, partially digested hay and a whiff of flatulence. My word! Thought I this is strange. It got stranger, I scented the hide of the beast which past this, thick hide made leathery by the sun but now damp and uncomfortably close. Like. None too clean elephant house at the zoo. This opening stayed for hours on my skin, linear, uncomfortable and headache inducing. After about 3 hours there was a mere puft of vanilla like a passing bubble of that sweet beauty which would have given balance had it been present in the mid. After 7 hours I could no longer bear it and received joyous greeting from Mr Ali when I emerged fragrant from bathing in something femininely rosy to offset the olfactory traumas of the day
The initial smell is something similar to animal dung,which doesnt wear off quickly enough, socouldnt really keep it on long enough to smell the other notes.
Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur, 1999
|Notes||woods, toffee, leather, musk|
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