Etiquette Bleue by D'Orsay, 1908

The notes seem like they would form a classical composition: neroli, petitgrain, orange, lemon, musk...yet the balsam and probably moss add a chypre character that detracts from the beauty of the citrus and orange blossom. The citric accord is somewhat synthetic as well. The base is very powdery. Is this a traditional cologne? well, sort of.

Powdery balsam with citrus topnotes. It's stunning in its EdT form but smells like a Glade candle when you get down to it. And old-school smelling perfume.

What a beautiful fragrance. Truly an extraordinary experience. Theres a gentleness and proportion about it that can only come from a less frantic time. The opening presents as refined, translucent, and beautiful a citrus accord as Ive experienced, and yet, as subtle as it is, it has real presence and does not abandon its masculinity; it contains a balanced citrus lemon and orange, with strong support from neroli and petitgrain. The same praise can be given to the middle accord a subtle rosewood, orange blossom combination simple and yet breath taking in its subtlety. In the base, the balsam predominates. In fact, the balsamic note is a strong element of the total fragrance and is really the soul of Etiquette Bleue. This is a fragrance that is about artistry rather than marketing about wispyness rather than minimalism. Its an incredible blend that I wish would last longer but is totally awesome every second it does last.

The balsam predominates, and I don't find it that appealing. I also found the longevity to be terrible.

With its strong hesperidic overture melting into one of the finest neroli notes ever and its general lightness this is a cousin of the great French Eau de Colognes by the likes of Roger & Gallet or Berdoues. While R&G has a more pungent citrus opening and fades quickly in direct comparison, Berdoues puts a stronger aspect on the orange blossom, but betrays quite some similarities, before Bleues gentle balsamic basenotes take over and it shows its greater fullness and roundedness. A classic Cologne promoted to Eau de Toilette, subtle, ethereal, brilliantly assembled. To me it is a scent of the South, conjuring up memories of strolling through the dusky streets of Cadiz, lined with orange trees releasing their beautiful fragrance as if to suggest the nights in Andalucia are not for sleeping.

Utterly unique and beautiful. Feels almost airy - like a breath of fresh air. The balsam really comes through for me, that and the powdery vanilla base. The whole thing is just so unique. Lyman is spot-on: it's effortlessly exotic. Exotic in the way tropical flowers are exotic, not a heavy, dark exotic. Longevity was not a big problem for me.

A warm citrusy-geranium scent, wears off nicely, medium longevity. Somewhat old scent, but would make for a lovely air freshener.

The fragrance that first made D'Orsay's reputation, Etiquette Bleue is worthy of its status as a classic. Very hesperidic to start, it calms to a beautiful citrus and woodsy blend. My only criticism would be that longevity is moderate at best. But it is a mood lifter with few equals.

My favorite, hands down. Incidentally exotic, effortlessly exotic--as opposed to, say Opium (which I do like as well), which is much more deliberately, assertively exotic. Classy. Enigmatic. Good to very good staying power. And a beautiful bottle, too.

Etiquette Bleue is a throwback to a different era in perfumery. In 1912 Guerlain's L'Heure Bleue heralded a trend of powdery vanilla bases which would later show up in Shalimar, Habanita, etc...but what most people don't know is that in 1908 D'Orsay preceded this trend and was wise enough to marry these basenotes with hesperidic topnotes resulting in "Eau de Bouquet", now known as Etiquette Bleue: Unlike anything else that I can think of in today's market, Etiquette Bleue starts as a fresh citrus but the basenotes surprise with a warm balsam and sandalwod base, grounding the otherwise fleeting orange blossom, bergamot, lemon and petitgrain. It tends to be a little sweet, and is not a powerhouse scent. It is, however, very unique, great for any time of year, and quite easily one of my all-time favorite compositions for it's ability to marry sweeter oriental notes with light hesperides. Smells like: a bit of Mugler cologne in the top, with a hint of vanilla in the base. I always think EB when smelling Boss in Motion (EB is light years better). Check Ebay for this one as prices vary wildly.