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Golconda by JAR

100% Positive Reviews
Rated #1771 in Fragrances

Posted
One of my very favorites. To my nose, it's incredibly simple, mostly a mix of carnation and jasmine (both of which smell like their very expensive real essential oils). With just a dab (it's an extrait), I get more jasmine, which is beautiful. With a slightly heavier application, it's darker, with a deep green leafy undertone, with a peppery spiciness on top. In terms of criticism, Golconda's simplicity (and price) make it fairly easy to pan. It doesn't seem to have any sort of basenotes at all. It's more like someone said "hey, let's mix these two really expensive amazing ingredients at the perfect ratio and just let it be." As such, it has the low longevity of a natural perfume, but it's just so utterly perfect that I savor it while it lasts, smiling all the while. THE ultimate jasmine/carnation grail.

Posted
Although it has been a while since I smelled this I remember it as a very wonderful, if somewhat raw, carnation perfume. Jar fragrances are unique in that they never employ cliched accords or common devices seen in almost all commercial perfumes, and Golconda is no exception. What Malle's Une Rose does for rose, Golconda does for carnation. A skyscraper of a carnation.

Posted
Golconda is probably the most wearer-friendly perfume in the JAR stable. It has definitive notes of clove, carnation and chocolate which are blended nicely into a warm, rich floral fragrance. In short, it is an elegant spicy floriental perfume and I would think that Golconda would appeal to a lover of Must de Cartier or Serge Lutens Borneo 1834, for example.

After sampling this and other JAR's, I just had to visit the JAR store in Paris (not affiliated). The following is a brief account of my visit:

No appointments to smell the JAR perfumes at the JAR store on rue Castiglione are necessary, unlike the rules to view JARs jewelry line which is sold at a different location. Anyways, you arrive at the JAR store, ring a bell to request entrance and then are ushered by an immaculately dressed man into a silent room which has one small round table and two chairs. The room is sparsely decorated in the French ancien regime style and is painted a dark aubergine. The ceiling has an elaborate crystal chandelier and, as a touch of whimsy, a mural of a thunderous dark sky with a giant lightning bolt. Bottles of each JAR perfume sit nearby on an elevated lighted stand which seems like an untouchable shrine. I did not dare go near them. Once you are seated, you notice that on the table are a number of glass containers which look like covered petri dishes and each contain a piece of crumpled fabric doused in scent. The JAR representatives role is to silently open each glass container one at a time and hold it up to you for a sniff of the saturated fabric. He is extremely courteous even though he will ONLY tell you the name of each perfume and nothing else. JARs policy is that they do not reveal any notes or comments about their fragrances. It is all meant to be a big secret, I suppose. So there you are, sniffing the contents of each glass container and you want to have a conversation about what you smell with your companion but somehow you get the feeling that it would be uncouth to say anything in the presence of the JAR representative about the perfumes.

On the whole, the JAR fragrances are extremely idiosyncratic and very expensive (for a 30 ml bottle, they range from 220 - 530 euros), and would not appeal to the mainstream consumer. For example, I cannot imagine what the average person would think of the distinct dill pickle notes in Shadow. However, I get the impression that the weirdness and cult-like secrecy is by design. It is almost as if the JAR perfume line is a side hobby for Joel Arthur Rosenthal and he really doesnt care if his perfumes sell or not. There is certainly no pressure to buy anything but given the silence and somewhat forbidding atmosphere, you do not feel like lingering either. We thanked the JAR gentleman who graciously shook our hands and then left the strange little world of JAR perfumes.
Golconda by JAR
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