H.M. by Hanae Mori, 1997

A non-typical, linear and chronological review for Hanae Mori HM, EdT. I wrote this as I took this out of the box and first applied. First - a nice, tall proud flacon. Classy and chic. I put two sprays on my inner wrists and 2 shots to the back of my hand, lightly rubbed in - I want to really get this. The tester bottle lists all the notes in French and English down the back of the bottle (here it is as written): Lemon Spearmint Lavender Blackcurrants Jasmine Iris Bulgarian Rose Lily of the Valley Moss Amber Vanilla Tonka Bean Sandal Wood NOT FOR SALE - on the bottom Okay, definitely a wonderful fresh and vibrant lemony opening that integrates with the spearmint and lavender within 5-7 minutes. I love this opening, being totally honest! I can smell a freshness that is clean, yet breathing through is a slight touch of the florals to come and a bit of the oriental base (I smell vanilla, tonka bean and a touch of amber) - at 15 minutes or so. This is the pastry smell some mention - "a lemon creme puff pastry", or something to that effect. I can grasp that, but to me...this stays a bit lighter and not edible. It could be because I am not in a full wearing, so the effect could be more like that if this was on my neck, chest/shirt, etc. While it is somewhat sweet and the brilliantly fresh and citrus, mint, lavender opening has mellowed - it doesn't get cloying. I have to say that the Blackcurrants come in somewhere around the notes of Jasmine and Iris at the top of the heart (right at the end of the opening). This isn't too sweet, but there is a noticeable near-gourmand quality at this stage, but the florals come in and really show the heart of this fragrance (fresh, yet powdery - very natural; organic & beautiful). It offers (as the French word is 'Cassis') a deep, rich earthy fruit note. Cassis is a note I know to the nose, ironically, from wine. It is not overly done here - this stays light in texture, "color" and aroma. I am not finding myself in the camp of pastry here - although the Jasmine and Iris both have powdery qualities, the Bulgarian Rose is not too loud (but smooth and harmonious), but a key note here along with the Lily of the Valley (earthy). Very nice bouquet! The moss is not really a key note in this. To me, it is more like a green accord/undertone that comes with the florals (a splash of green in the bouquet to 'fill it out') - a little damp and something that helps bring the heart together. More of a "feel" than an actual note. Vanilla showed first, but at this point (30-35 minutes), I actually get a bit more amber and tonka bean. The vanilla is there - but what I like is that it was used in moderation. As I've discussed before - vanilla, amber and even tonka bean can radiate through a scent (breathing up from the basenotes to the top even...a feeling of warmth throughout) - what I find interesting is that the floral heart really lasts well with these notes in a nice synergy (also all fixatives, in the oriental realm). Last, and certainly not least - the key to why this composition does not get cloying in the base (45-50 minutes in) - the Sandalwood note! It is very well-defined and offers that creamy, smooth woodiness that only sandalwood can offer. I am getting a very nice warm, well-integrated base with the florals still wafting their scent through the base. I have to say that the moderate use of the amber, vanilla and tonka bean (and not too much of any one of those) allows the sandalwood to be more dominant. This is seriously good stuff. No rating - just admiration. There was a point where I thought it may overly-sweeten and go into gourmand territory, but on my skin...I get a nice oriental base (no chocolate for me) with nice woods and singing light florals. The rose actually peeks through and blooms even more at the 1 hour mark. Definitely a very, very good buy. Nothing like it in my collection. I asked my wife what she thought of it - she really liked it! "A bit sweet, but that's really nice!" And, because human body chemistry is different - I sprayed two shots on my younger son's neck (who loves fragrance). It smells deeper and yet, more floral and spicier on him. I applied it just 15-20 minutes after I sprayed my wrists and hand. I do notice that the inside of my wrists are deeper too - the back of my hand is taking longer to develop and evolve (which is why I always wear scent there). Plus, the projection from the backs of your hands really radiates and shows the scent... Very good, indeed! Invigorating. A beam of radiant sunshine in a bottle. Recommended for those who want to add a splash of decadent light into their wardrobe. **Please note - that this was written in real-time as a "virtual review" - typing, sniffing, pausing, and typing more as I went. Cheers.