Heure Exquise by Annick Goutal, 1984

An iris fragrance in my mind, and based upon what I've experienced, is often counteracted with a distinguishable soapiness, heavy powder or an array of other floral notes. Heure Exquise is very different from what I'm used to. This is no Iris Nobile, Le Labo Iris 39 or Chanel 28 La Pausa. I was actually surprised to see iris listed as a note here. When I first smelt this fragrance the dominant iris did not occur to me. I was too fascinated with the overall composition rather than determining particular notes. Upon further reflection, Heure Exquise does have a lovely iris accord. This fragrance is stunningly simple. Somewhat dry, spiced powder with smokey undertones. To me this fragrance is almost animalistic. It has many sensual qualities and it exudes confidence and an element of class. When the iris blends with the turkish rose, sandalwood and subtle spices, the result is almost ethereal. Heure Exquise almost surpasses my undying love for Passion, also by Annick Goutal. Combined with great lasting power and an iris that shines above and beyond many iris scents on the market today, Heure Exquise is a sure winner in my eyes. I cannot wait to get my hands on a bottle. The wait is almost too hard to bare.

Being a fan of many of Annick Goutals fragrance, and contemplating the name Heure Exquise, I was expecting this to be a beautifully soft, transparent delicacy. The opening surprised me: I was attacked by an acidic, aldehydic tour de force. The aldehydes are rampant to the point of being shocking. I have no idea where the acid came from I cant account for it in the pyramid. The rose note in the opening doesnt come across very strongly for me, but the little bit of rose that does show through provides a clean and simple contrast to the frenetic aldehydes. It takes a while for the opening accord to settle down to something less aggressive. After twenty minutes I get a soft, clear rose note surrounded by a reduced sharp, clean, dry aldehydic green.

When it reaches the middle notes, an excellent powdery iris emerges. The powder is of high quality. I no longer smell the rose note. The middle has become almost an iris root solo soft, green, powdery, and feminine.

The drydown is much the same as the middle accords to my nose; it continues green and powdery, and it exhibits very good longevity for an Annick Goutal fragrance.

I think that Heure Exquise is a good scent that, unfortunately, doesnt perform well on my skin its that chemistry thing again.