Very boozy scent with a nice sandalwood base. I get a blast of rum and sugar cane in the opening and they both stick around through most of the scent's life. I can kind of get a hint of orange but it isn't dominate enough to be noticeable. The only problem I have with the scent is it's spotty longevity and projection. I can't tell if it's because of olfactory fatigue but sometimes this fragrance just doesn't perform for me. So to sum it up, great boozy scent but lacking in consistent performance. 8.4/10
Idole De Lubin by Lubin, 2005
Rated #473 in Fragrances
I tested the modern EDT. Immediate notes of rum, ice cream and vanilla. It's lovely - if you're into gourmand. It fades on me to a skin-close, warm leather. It also gave me a sore throat and itchy eyes. Oh dear. That would be the cloves and cinnamon - which are very present in the middle. They definitely dovetail nicely into the overall fragrance but the midnotes are so heavy for me that I'm wheezing as I type. I liked the idea of it and the notes were harmonious, but unfortunately too sweet and allergenic for me. I would have liked to wear it more.
Can light be dark? Oh yes. The light that is so distictive of Olivia Giacobetti's creations is here dark, brown or black, but is still luminous! Idole is another lovely creation of the splendid woman who Olivia Giacobetti is. A happy encounter of spice and wood with brightness. Perfect worn along with an african pareo. Beautiful the african mask on the bottle.
Interesting, complex and surprising. I read it as hyper-masculine, maybe because of the leather-alcohol punch that opens it. In the next stage it rounds up nicely, spicy and sweet. The smoky, tobacco notes emphasis the masculine note. Hard to put my finger on it why, but it reminds me of the 70s, more in spirit than how actually masculine fragrances smelt like this is how we could imagine the 70s from the 2010s. And I must add how much I love the bottle - a classic design!
As Idole de Lubin edt smells so nearly identical to the edp that I have already reviewed in detail, I won't re-write the same review again here. What I *can* say is that both versions are tremendous releases easily worthy of purchase, especially for fans of boozy and spicy scents. If you own one, however, buying the other is not necessary, IMO. Projection and longevity for the edt are both below average. In comparing the edt and edp versions I slightly prefer the edp version of Idole for its moderately longer longevity (not that it does not have its own problems in that area to some degree) and my personal preference for its more streamlined bottle (both bottles are works of art though)... Other than that and the edp's slightly sweeter amber base the two really are so similar you could swap the them without most anyone noticing. Idole edt gets a near masterpiece rating of 4.5 stars out of 5 and a strong buy recommendation if you don't already own the edp.
This is probably my favorite 21st-century perfume, because, as Off-Scenter already observed in his wonderful review, it is a masterpeice of juxtapositions. A traditional heavy-hitting masculine portfolio of booze and spices married with the metrosexual aesthetics of transparency and lightness, which Olivia Giacobetti is known to be a masteress of. I believe it fully succeeds, perfectly embodying James-Bondish elegance and swagger in a contemporary idiom, and to my nose it both projects decently and lasts well. Orange bitters, rum and saffron notes with peppery spice is what I smell and I never hesitate to don this when I want to look swell in a sharp suit ( a tuxedo / dinner suit would be an even better match). I understand the critical remarks that have been made about the orientalist / African stereotypes inscribed into the flacon, but in terms of sheer aesthetics it is a stunning homage to Art Deco Africanisms, which did, if not unproblematically, celebrate black culture.
I kind of like the opening, when the bright boozy, spiciness first hits. Its is an attention getter. I get clove and cumin, not sure what the exotic quality generates from but it does feel tropical somehow, humid, deep tropical shade... It settles into a more woody sandalwood and spices - fading rather quickly to a skin scent. Accomplished, but just not my kind of scent and the spices go sour on me after awhile.
Starts off strong with the rum and transitions into a spicy fragrance with saffron being the main player. Projection, longevity, and the price dropped it down to a neutral. I guess I expected more complexity which wasn't there for me. Not bad, but not something I'd go out of my way to purchase.
The main factor that jumps over mind inhaling the first whiff of this scent is its boozy initial temperament, as well as many reviewers underlined. The rum is there and is a sugary aged liquor let to rest in old barrels made of smoked ebony and treated with brewing spices (nutmeg and cinnamon?) and mellow fruits. The spicy and sugary orange covered by a dust of brown sugar and cinnamon is notable. The smell in this phase is a bit aromatic and gassy, an effect may be brought out by the almost edible, balancing in sweetness and decidedly prickly work produced by the black cumin and saffron combo. This vibe is, on the side of the liquorous feel, the prominent trail of the entire smell and perfectly joins its effect with a marvellous creamy-exotic touch of amber and resin of doum palm. In this phase the smell is still boozy, aromatic-pungent, edible of spices, mellow fruits, balsams and endly smoky. I think that some flowers are comprised in the composition. The smokey trait is steady throughout the development with all its charge of darkness. Is important to underline that the consistence of the smell is averagely sharp despite a touch of exotic creaminess and the general darkness of smoke, woods, spices and incense. The last element, not listed, makes it apparition with time in support of the smokiness of woods and spices. Passing time this spicy oriental starts to reveal its leathery side that is not prominent in my opinion, the boozy and aromatic sweet spiciness with its smokey and incensey trait still remains the main temperament of this dusty concoction that passing the hours becomes strangely drier, almost watery as a light vetiver scent (are we sure that the unlisted vetiver is really absent in the composition?). A woody presence closes the round imprinting some stableness to the foggy smell. The level of darkness is surprising despite the moderate level of density and the final outcome is misty and nocturnal. Idole reminds me a bit Pardon, the new creation from Nasomatto, which is less pungent and aromatic but more resinous, floral and chocolatey. Don't quote me for this but some olfactory undertones, with all the proportions, remind me a scent of my youth, Versus Versace (the two fragrances share some elements) , obviously i'm talking about reminiscences underlining that Versus lacks all the depth, the aromatic pungency and the caftsmanship of Idole. I smell also some association with Krizia Uomo whose some reviewer talked about. Granted that i appreciate but don't love this fragrance that looses something in boldness and attractiveness with time, becoming too sugary and demure as soon as all the strength of pepper and saffron goes fading.
Very linear to begin with. Now that might be a good thing, you decide. Either way this has a nice boozy and quite daring start, for a short while (and I was hoping for something more as it developed). Then it keeps that boozy spicy sorta thing going and I have to say it smells real nice, but really I only find it charming, it's to comfy for me. No pirate stuff this. ; ) To bad since the bottle is very sexy.
Idole De Lubin by Lubin, 2005
|Top Notes||Rum Absolute, Saffron, Bitter Orange Peel, Black Cumin|
|Middle Notes||Doum Palm, Smoked Ebony, Sugar Cane|
|Base Notes||Leather, Red Sandalwood|
|Bottle Designer||Serge Lutens|
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