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Iris De Nuit by Heeley

70% Positive Reviews
Rated #3583 in Fragrances

Posted
Reading other reviews I am struck yet again how differently individuals experience the same fragrance, some loving it: some hating it. I wanted to try IdN because I fell so completely in love with Chanel's 28 la Pausa even though it was quite fugitive on me, and thought that another iris (especially from a perfumer with a good reputation like James Heeley) might be equally gorgeous - and equally fugitive. I tried IdN and was knocked endways by its power - yes, honestly; one spritz on the back of my hand seemed to fill the room and continued to do so for several hours. At first I couldn't smell much iris; plenty of violet, ambrette & carrot seed but the iris seemed a bit shy. Eventually I had one of those gosh-aren't-I-stupid moments - like when you spend hours looking for something and find it sitting on your desk all along, just where it should be - and realised that the iris had been there all along, quietly elegant and simply beautiful. A bit like Audrey Hepburn - sitting in the background of a scene and saying nothing, yet stealing the whole show.

Posted
If only there were more carrot and herbal notes in here! Basically a dry iris with lots of synthetic and a touch of aquatic notes. Ultimately it's not refreshing, smells cheap and gives me a headache.

Posted
Doll plastic with carrots. One could go on about the purity of intent, the skilful blending of vegetal and earthy tones, but I won't. For me, the simplicity verges on banal. For understatement to succeed it needs some small spark of wit, otherwise it fades, like this scent, into the background.

Posted
Silent, cold and impersonal as the ambience of a shadowy inner garden in the court of an old sinister building at late afternoon in november....., that's what i thought at the beginning, or better, before testing specifically it on my skin. What about now? I write it's a smooth, softly musky and rounded ambery-violet with a nocturnal and opaque iris and patterns of powder, soap and musky smoothness. More violet than iris anyway and the latter comes out almost laundry just at the end. The combination of angelica, iris and violet is sophisticated, enigmatic and shadowy. The smell is natural, aromatic and a bit boise'. The beginning is characterized by an aromatic smell of anise (angelica) surrounding the rooty and floral smell by the vintage link of treacherous violet and noble iris. The chord is regal and consistent because of the balancing and warming role of ambrette seeds that tames the angles of roots and florals and undertates the cold of the floral-grass-angelica chord. A central note of carrot impresses a botanic temperament that isn't anyway sharp and angular. The base is balanced with a perfect combination of sharp woods, musk and ambergris. A note of musky cedarwood is notable in the dry down. This fragrance is very similar to the stunning Iris Silver Mist which with it shares many elements (carrot, violet, cedar, incense, amber, iris etc) but the Lutens's scent (hard to smell, i found it just in Tokyo) is slightly spicier, denser and creamier. The scent itself is averagely sharp and strictly balanced with a subdued melliuence in order to privilege the nature.

Posted
As already written by other reviewers, this is a light scent; even at its very opening when most scents try to strike you with their top notes, IDN is so soft, almost impalpable, that you have to wonder whether you have been fooled to buy a fake & diluted version of a perfume.. True enough, after a while this seems to come back a little with some sort of a powdery/sweet/floral combination that is not exactly what I'd expect from an allegedly iris centered scent. Maybe I see now why they called this Iris de nuit, what you get of it here is really more like the breath of a sleeping iris.. Not a terrible scent, but the fact itself that you (or at least I) have to apply no fewer than 10 sprays to get anything out of it at all makes me think something's not quite right here..

Posted
Wow, when I smelled this I though it was a damn good fragrance, and I continued to think that as it wore on. The somewhat masculine iris is reminiscent of Dior pour homme but this is much darker than that, it has a dark, yet playful side, revealing angelica root, anise, and carrot. I highly recommend this, especially to fans of iris, but really to any one looking for a nice complex evening fragrance

Posted
An excellent iris fragrance of discreet volume and considerable interest, with a warmer character than most irises, and vantage notes of angelica, violet, carrot, and cedar that subtly illuminate the possibilities of grass, bread, woods, and (surprisingly) green tea. This is not the lightening-in-a-bottle of Iris Silver Mist. But it is thoughtful, natural-smelling, and unusually butch for an iris, with an absence of liptstick connotations (Dior Homme) and floral accompaniment (Frederic Malle Iris Poudre). Iris de Nuit is one of Heeley's best.

Posted
Lovely Green Perfection.
This opens with Angelica, similar to Guerlain's Angelique Noir which I recently sampled. But Guerlain's version was quite heavy and sharp to me, whereas this one is light, almost too light, as it seems to disappear for a while then come back to hang out.

But this is the type of green opening I look for, so my first impression was very positive.

This has carrot in it, which I recently sniffed in pure oil form at Wholefoods. Carrot is sweet, actually, and quite a bit earthy. It's a note that I like, where as violet and iris (orris root) are notes that I love.

When the middle act begins I'm all a flutter with giddiness. Because of the carrot this sweetens up a bit, which may appeal to the floral/fruity fans, but doesn't become so sweet that a chypre fan like me would want to wash off.

This is one I like well enough to hold onto my sample so I can return to it. The flag I've raised is longevity, which is why I want to try it on various days to get a better feel. Love it.

Posted
A scent in which the iris supports a variety of green and woody notes on an oriental base. Angelica seeds and musky ambrette seeds lead off in the top, with a heart of orris root, violet and carrot seed, and a base of bracing white cedar and amber. The violet and carrot seed notes are familiar players repeated here from Hermès' beautiful Hiris, but minus the neroli and rose, making this Heeley iris much drier, woodier, and greener. Very subtle without being shy. It does have a moderate projection and a good longevity.

Posted
Probably the least feminine iris. It's iris and cedar mostly. Understated. Something a little sour in the heartnotes that I cannot quite put my finger on. If you find most iris scents sweet try this one.
Iris De Nuit by Heeley
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