I can't agree with those who give this a thumbs up - it's base is a solid green chypre and very nice. However, it's top notes keep changing: one day for me it's a mix of anise, cassis and caraway; another it is reminiscent of Schiaparelli's SHOCKING in its tobacco/honey blend. Some days it just smells like plastic. A "wonky" scent and in no way the same class as CABOCHARD or QUORUM.
Jean-Louis Scherrer by Jean-Louis Scherrer, 1979
Rated #540 in Fragrances
Jean-Louis Scherrer is probably one of the greatest chypre cuir compositions ever made. I agree with some reviewers here who say JLS is reminiscent of other famous chypre cuir perfumes such as Cabochard and Bandit. Strangely enough, there is no leather in JLS according to the olfactive pyramid found on the Net. Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, violet, cassia, hiacynth Middle notes: carnation, tuberose, gardenia, orris root, jasmine, rose Base notes: sandalwood, amber, musk, civet, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver, cedar Moss and vetiver make for a great classic combination but they can be lethal when mixed with aldehydes and animalic notes. JLS could have been a very offensive stink-bomb! Thank God, it is magnificently balanced. Yes, it is definitely bitter and dry as a bone but it softens just a bit as soon as the dry-down process begins. The discreet sweeter notes (amber, vanilla, carnation) appear to be lost in the composition but they do a great "softening" job. The animalic notes are extremely present without being too heavy or skunky. And without the floral notes, Jean-Louis Scherrer would probably have been marketed as a masculine EDT. I think this fragrance is absolutely unique. There are quite a few light fresh green EDT's around but this one is anything but light and fresh. It is woody, rich and dark. Really dark. Not every woman can wear such a daring, strong and assertive fragrance. However, the lucky ones who can get away with it will get a lot of compliments.
A green, long-lasting, seductive, original, complex. harmonious scent. I prefer Scherrer to better known chypre classics. I discovered it in the mid-80's because a very fashionable student from Romania wore it every day. It was a gift from her boyfriend in Paris. At that time you couldn't find it anywhere in the States, so I had to wait months until I was in France to buy it. It may have been more popular in Europe, but in the States it was--and still is--a unique scent. Gorgeous. Green. Glamorous. Bold. And it goes on and on. I apply it lightly, wear it with caution, and generally turn to it only in moments of olfactory nostalgia.
(I have the edp) Some very strong scents suggest wearing with restraint if not caution. Not Scherrer. This is the kind of heavy, bruiser of a green chypre that I just want to drench myself in. It is powerful and unashamed and urges me be likewise. Sometimes my mind remembers Scherrer as almost pure oakmoss. But then I put it on again and the galbanum jumps up in front of me and the floral heart just shouts at me. This baby is loud but beautifully blended, with bitter fruity tartness (bergamot, mandarin?) and dark, spicy dry florals. Scherrer is that uncommon, but thrilling reminder that seduction doesnt always take place sotto voce, or catch you against your better judgement. Scherrer calls to you with full-throated come-ons and wants you to feel the enticement. Scherrer is more pick-up than courtship, more tryst than date.
Fragrances like Scherrer are what make perfume a passion, rather than a mere fascination. Jean Louis-Scherrer's first fragrance is the greatest chypre ever made - earthy, dark green, leathery, powerful, melancholy, old-school, and most importantly, mysterious. Everything about it - construction, scent, attitude, sillage, longevity - is perfect, and for me it exudes a magic that no other fragrance can match. Both the EDT and EDP are of equal quality and are worth scouring the earth for. If you manage to score a bottle, treasure it like it was part of your body. For me, this may be the greatest perfume ever made. It's that good. MY RATING: 10/10
I disagree with the reviewer below who said that there is an 80s note in Scherrer; I assume she was smelling the big rosey damascenone materials which became de riguer in fragrances of the late 70s and 80s. I have a pure parfum mini of Scherrer (unsure of time period) and there is no 80s syrup to be found here. The top notes of this fragrance are immediately reminiscent, if not identical to, the original and distinctive green beginnings of Givenchy III. Then as the minutes pass, Scherrer begins to smell very much like original Bandit or EL Azuree, a bitter twist of sharp floral notes which echo the formidable green classics that came before it. It is dark, mossy, green, foresty, and beautiful which, while adding nothing terribly original or unique to the chypre genre, plucks out and compiles all of the best aspects and accords of its predecessors into one perfume. Stunning, it is a favorite of this avowed chypre lover.
You cant sniff JLS without getting slapped in the face by the 80s glory note. My mind took it a step further and added a soundtrack: the Dallas theme song, season 3. JLS shouldnt be introduced without it; this is Sue Ellens signature scent, no questions asked. But my, what a big girl scent this is. My version is vintage, but Im not sure of the year. I immediately detected the green notes (hyacinth), and a luscious, full bosomed base. I cant imagine wearing this scent for fun. This must be worn with a purpose. Preferably one that comes with high heels, a short skirt, a tight fitting top and a top shelf martini. I will be setting this sample aside for those nights when Im heading to the City for cocktails and a show. Its just loud enough to get you noticed, and just refined enough to keep the other patrons guessing what youre up to. Good stuff, but like the show, the earlier versions are better.
This fragrance is Green_Green_Green, with leather lurking in the background. It is not for the faint (or young) of heart. It is complicated & sophistocated. The opening is a shocking dose of aldehydes & greens. Next comes a leathery rose, gardenia & tuberose accord followed by a green oakmoss, civet, vetivier & cedar drydown. Vanilla & musk also are listed in the bottom notes, but I cannot detect softness anywhere in this unrelenting fragrance. Visions of Joan Crawford with a whip flood my thoughts. I'm glad that I found a bottle on Ebay, because perfume like this no longer can be made. I am grateful for the opportunity to own Scherrer and will treasure my "little dose of pure poison".
I'm SO with purplebird7 on this one: outdoorsy spicy florals on a mean mossy base. Lovely stuff, and so otherworldly to me as this is such an out-of-fashion scent. Very very green, but not sharp, soft in focus but clear in intent. Personally, I'd love to smell this on a bubbly 18 year old blonde beauty or a studious young man of about 24.
A classic chypre from the 1980's, with prominent moss notes in the base. The "woody notes" definitely include patchouli, and the mandarin stands in for bergamot. The floral bouquet in the middle is classic and very tastefully done, so the florals don't tip the balance against the base notes. Marketed to women, but the drydown is fine on a man, since all the florals in this are now commonly found in "masculine" scents and fall well short of screeching levels.
Jean-Louis Scherrer by Jean-Louis Scherrer, 1979
|Top Notes||Violet, Aldehyde, Cassie|
|Middle Notes||Jasmin, Rose, Gardenia, Tuberose, Carnation|
|Base Notes||Vanilla, Musk, Amber, Moss, Civet, Cedar, Vetiver|
|Bottle Designer||Serge Mansau|
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