Le Dandy by D'Orsay, 1923

Le Dandy (edp) opens with a somewhat sweet fruity mixture of plum and peach mixing with an alcoholic champagne-like accord to create what amounts to the smell of a delicious champagne laced fruit punch, complete with fresh fruit slices and peach sherbert on top. The top notes remain into the heart of the scent, combining with traces of cinnamon, nutmeg and clove spice with the fruit still taking the fore using the spice as subtle support now joined by an almost soapy accord. Base notes of sweet sandalwood, patchouli and tonka bean add further sweetness to the already sweet fruity concoction. Projection is minimal and longevity is excellent. Le Dandy (edp) is a nice mixture of fruit spiked alcohol, mild spice, and tonka laced super-sweet sandalwood. The almost shampoo-like soapy undertone in the scent's heart is most likely a remnant of the alcoholic accord and it is a bit weird smelling, so I could see it turning some folks off, but I kind of find it interesting. One other word of caution is the high level of sweetness from start to finish can get a bit cloying if you are not too careful, so I recommend going easy on the trigger. If applied in the right amount I think Le Dandy can impress, especially if you enjoy really sweet scents. I can't really say it is ground breaking or stunningly wonderful smelling, but it is definitely a cut above the norm and earns a "good" to "very good" rating of 3 to 3.5 stars out of 5.

All historically-incorrect information aside, Le Dandy EDT (the reformulation) is a very elegant, crisp fragrance. It is an EDT but has excellent sillage. The ginger note stands out and mingles well with the deeper tobacco and cognac. This fragrance is not for the shy; it is brazen but not obnoxiously so. It is indeed like a Georgian or early Victorian dandy: opulent, elegant, inviting attention and admiration. It is suitable for both men and women, although marketed as a men's scent. (I understand the original formulation in the 1920s was taken up by "flappers" of the time.) The name of this scent comes as no surprise for the original launch of the fragrance to promote the company's adopted namesake of Count d'Orsay, whom the company made out to be a parfumeur in a clever marketing campaign. In actuality, the company was formed in 1908 by partners Siegfried, Berg, Fink and Van Dyck. (For more history, see Nigel Groom's, "The Perfume Handbook," second edition, and Ken Leach's "Perfume Presentations.") I would categorise this scent as unique and unlike much of what is in production. EDIT: The EDP version of Le Dandy was released in 2010 and has less crispness and sillage. The scent is essentially the same but the oakmoss has been removed.