Mauboussin Homme by Mauboussin, 2003

Mauboussin Homme seems to be another of the fragrances that vary substantially between edp and edt concentrations. This sort of difference is a common enough in womens perfumes, but having two concentrations at all is uncommon in mens fragrances, nonetheless two concentrations that vary qualitatively from each other. I have the edp. My overall conclusion is that Ive found another contested ground between Luca Turin and myself, the first being his boredom with and my love for a glaring mixed-white floral. The second is lavender. Caron pour un Homme is one of the few fragrances I truly dislike, yet is in Turins 5-star category. He found Mauboussin Homme somewhere between tired and tedious, if I may paraphrase. I have to say his beau frère characterization is clever, but I dont find MH to be the unpleasant relative. MH connects the minty-medicinal feel of lavender to the camphorous cool of patchouli by highlighting both with culinary herbs. Both the lavender and the patchouli are long-lasting and the feel that their pairing produces last through the drydown. As to the notes listed for drydown, vanilla? sandalwood? Not so much. But there does appear to be a musk that keeps a Cliff Notes version of the topnotes, condensed and with lower wattage sillage, intact through drydown. The concept that keeps MH interesting and lively is the contrast presented by lavender, whose very name literally speaks of its cleanliness, and patchouli, which on a certain level smells like fancy dirt. Clean/dirty. MMmmm.

Mauboussin starts out nicely with a beautiful lavender, bergamot, rosemary accord subtle and rich. It is an opening that reminds me a bit of Caron Pour Un Homme, but it is much more refined and smooth and elegant. This vibrant splash of lavender, rosemary, and bergamot dies down rather quickly to an attractive and much tamer spice and patchouli accord for the mid notes. The middle notes herbal, spice, and patchoulidont quite have the superior elegance of the opening primarily because of the weakness of their sillage. The mid notes are a bit too transparent and just do not achieve enough presence in my opinion. The drydown is a gentle and subtle sandalwood / vanilla that sticks so close to the skin that it appears to disappear. It has even less presence, but is much nicer than even the close-to-the-skin drydown of Pour Un Homme. The accords of Mauboussin are well crafted and beautiful and there is not a trace of synthetics. This scent is elegance and refinement personified. Ive learned to appreciate the transparent fragrances, and I have learned to admire Mauboussin for that reason and its quality and dependability. Anyone who likes the subtle fragrances should give this one a tryit is a quality fragrance, and it is a comfortable wear.