Andy Tauer's earlier perfumes, from Le Maroc Pour Elle to Incense Rose, are imaginative and beautiful, but his recent compositions have tended toward the boring (Orange Star) and downright bad (Loretta). Miriam's nice smelling, if unadventurous, basic idea of aldehydes and amber places it in the first pack. What happened to Andy's ingenuity?
Miriam by Tableau de Parfums, 2011
Rated #2712 in Fragrances
I like this when first applied--I definitely get the vintage Chantilly vibe--but the dry down is a bit sour on my skin--could be perhaps the violet leaf or civet? A terrific rendition of a big,classic aldehydic floral, nonetheless, along the lines of original Arpege or Chanel N°5-- it just doesn't suit my tastes. Would make a great gift for a lipsticked dame who is inspired by 1950's fashions and retro trends. Big sillage, great body and presence. Not for the shy.
Once in a blue moon something like Miriam occurs. It's extra special .Andy Tauer has created something so spectacular - I knew it from first sniff. .Everything is superbly balanced and this is a fragrance that literally sings on skin. From the high notes of the aldehydes blended with the rich bergamot and orange to the mezzo tone of the heart notes which do remind me of the greatness of how Chanel No .5 USED to be and that wonderful drydown - sensual ,romantic ,deep and sexy with a slightly dusty sandalwood and orris.The drydown reminds me of the sandalwood used in Bois des Iles of Chanel . It is absolutely superb .The strength of this also perfect - neither light and fleeting nor overpowering. This is what all scent ,fragrance, perfume should be . 5 stars .
Aldehydes--and then a sweet powder and vanilla scent reminiscent of the original Chantilly. Old-fashioned fun if youre into that particular, retro genre of women's perfume. I was never a Chantilly wearer, though, because the carnation and powder combination made a statement in the wrong direction for me. I liked white musk better.
Andy Tauer is terribly successful in creating a fragrance to evoke women's perfumes of the 40's and 50's. Miriam seems to hit all the historic olfactory points right on the mark so much so that it seems like a simulation the stage manager ordered so that the period play would have everything tre authentique including the women's perfume. It does evoke. I think of mommy and my aunties and them getting all dolled up and wearing hats and drinking manhattans like they were going out of style. (They were.) I get tired pretty quickly of this pretty perfume just like I got tired of some of my aunties. Just kidding. Guess this is where I get sent to bed.
Miriam is one of Tauer's latest essays on feminine florals. Like so many other perfumers faced with the restrictions on rose imposed by IFRA 43, Tauer sought a way to use this cherished note without running foul of the guidelines. And he's succeeded brillliantly, with Miriam. It's a gorgeous, unabashedly feminine perfume that manages to be contemporary yet evoke old-fashioned glamour too; the sort of thing I could imagine Rita Hayworth or Hedy Lamarr wearing to a premiere. There's rose, yes, and a slew of aldehydes along with bergamot, geranium, violet and ylang ylang, all evident in the first half hour. The aldehydes linger for some time, and then the predominantly floral fragrance stays quite linear for several hours, eventually drying down to a beautifully soft ambery, vanilla and sandalwood composition. Incense notes and a spiced tea accord, recognizable from Une Rose Chypree, are also evident. I couldn't detect the orris root, but I'm sure it's there, helping everything meld together. On me this fragrance lasted for seven hours, something of a record. As you can probably guess, I love it. I think anyone could wear it, for just about any occasion. It's a bold perfume, but spritzed on sparingly you could wear it to the office. And at night, it would come into its own anywhere. I don't think it's an age-specific scent, either. I could imagine a sophisticated 20-something enjoying it, but so could a 50-something person with classic tastes. Definitely worth trying if you like vintage-style perfume, and don't mind being noticed.
Miriam by Tableau de Parfums, 2011
|Top Notes||bergamot, sweet orange|
|Middle Notes||geranium, violet blossom, rose, jasmine, ylang, violet leaf, lavender|
|Base Notes||vanilla, orris root, sandalwood|
|By||Tableau de Parfums|
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