Mohur by Neela Vermeire, 2011

This is a gorgeous rose, saffron, and incense scent. It is happy and also peaceful, welcoming and warm and also exotic and sensual. This is a spring rose, and the sexuality is in the saffron and spices. I smell cumin and black pepper, and the saffron segues into the heart of a sweet and almost lemony rose scent. This is discreet but at the same time the sillage has a way of making itself known, esp. to the wearer. I see a connection to Paestum Rose, but less wood in the drydown and less incense. This is a beautiful fragrance and if you love rose it is definitely one to try. A fantastic addition to the floral oriental category.

Mohur is, among the fragrances of the gorgeous NV trio, the one I find more difficult to appreciate fully, due to its rose overload. Nonetheless, it's a very elegant and perfectly balanced composition. It starts with a sharp, "dry-cleaner" oud note, moistened by a fresh, dewy rose, then it slowly bends toward a classic feminine fragrance, with a smooth and sweet rose-iris-sandalwood heart sprinkled with spices, that gets even smoother and sweeter in the drydown. The lasting power is, as usual, impressive.

I can't make up my mind on Mohur. I personally do not like it, I can't wear it. It's too powdery a rose and I loathe powdery roses. They remind me of baby wipes. Also, there are so many notes in here, it's like watching a kaleidoscope on super-fast spin! That being said, for those who like complex and powdery rose confections, this is a very unique and interesting perfume. Definitely a try-before-you-buy, but I know some people are going to go crazy for this one.