Soho, London, 1985. After the club shuts down, the clubbers gather at the all-night patisserie for coffee, pastries and gossip. Everyone is crammed together in the queue, hot, sweaty, over-sprayed with heavy 80s perfumes. Chocolate croissants and cinnamon danish are being devoured. Nobody wants to go home alone. Musc Ravageur is a warm, dressed-up vanilla pudding of a scent. It takes a couple of minutes for the pudding to emerge from a rich, erotic fog of hot animal, but (too) soon all that lusty funk vanishes and you are left with rich, dense cinnamon, vanilla and tonka which eventually turns to a sweet amber. On my skin it isn't structured or subtle and the patisserie middle is exhausting, but I do like the morning-after glow of the dry-down.
Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, 2000
Rated #46 in Fragrances
Opens with a lovely lavender tinted bergamot, and quickly gets down to business with a salty vanilla musk--a very good and rich one. Definitely on the carnal side, certainly towards animalic. Thankfully it is not nearly as over-the-top as Muscs Kublai Khan, although it does call MKK to mind (in fact, this may be my gateway to finally being able to appreciate MKK, well see). Woods register in the brighter end of the spectrum but remain subtle in the mix. This is a sensual salty sweet and slightly woody musc through and through, with great longevity (detectable as more than a skin-scent for 8+ hours) and projection, and silage that is decent or better. It is not vulgar, but certainly suggestive, falling on the erotic side of "sensual."
This has such a strong "old-lady" connotation to me. I had prepared myself for a sexy animalic musc, but the sweetness was overpowering, and there was a sour opening note that persisted and was actually a bit nauseating (like incontinent old lady). Had to wash it off. Twice. I'm disappointed that I was persistent in bidding for my sample; should have let it go at $25.00....*sigh* Live and learn...
I would have originally given this a thumbs up but the more and more I wear this stuff the less I am impressed with this. I am apart of the group who does not like the clove opening and it takes a crazy amount of time for that to die down. Learned my lesson of buying a frag for only liking the dry down.
Musc Ravageur opens with a few minutes of moderately intense anisic lavender hovering above a very soft, smooth, and creamy vanilla. Then, the lavender mellows but remains easily detectable, and the vanilla intensifies, but because it is aided by musk, it stays very smooth and creamy, all the while hanging alongside a pinch of cinnamon. Of course, this lavender-vanilla accord (like the lavender-oakmoss accord), evokes a typical fougère style and has become ubiquitous in perfumery (e.g., see Le Male, HM [from Hanae Mori], etc.). Ultimately, although the perfume is very well done (as is to be expected from this brand and the perfumer), it is largely unoriginal. Its greatest accomplishment is the exquisite smoothness and creaminess of its vanilla, which I think is largely due to the assistance of the musk. Perhaps this is why the word "Musc" appears in the name of this perfume even though the note itself is not a focal point.
Vulgar and uninteresting.
Musc Ravageur is a very nice scent indeed. For the most part the scent pyramid posted on this review page is accurate based on my experience with it on skin. It opens with a blast of natural smelling lavender with just a hint of bergamot to balance it out. The heart notes emerge rather early, where a nice cinnamon and clove combo of about equal proportions mix with a very nice musk note that does not overpower or smell too "dirty". The dry-down consists with the musk dominating, supported by hints of vanilla, gaiac wood and remnants of the clove/cinnamon combo from the heart notes. Projection is about average and longevity is excellent. As to my feelings about Musc Ravageur, I find it to be an extremely well-rounded musk scent that is much more wearable and versatile than most (if not all) of the others I have tried. Roucel has balanced the scent from start to finish near perfectly, and in its category this has to be considered the reference in my book. This, and Villoresi's Musk are my two favorite musks, but Musc Ravageur is more of a "true" musk scent, so it wins the tie-breaker (in a category that I don't care much for as a general rule). To musk scent lovers who can afford it, this is a must smell (and buy), to all others it is worth a try at least to experience what a master can do with musk. It is superb, earning 4 stars out of 5.
It's not that bad, but certainly is not that "great" either! I went to Liberty in London and I was decided to buy two Malle's fragrances and I have to tell you that Musc Ravageur was one of them (just for the reviews - cause I've never tryed it before)! The result? I bought the wonderful Carnal Flower and the delicious L'Eau d'Hiver (not mentioning the fact that my girlfriend hated this Roucel's fragrance)!!! MR is only ok to me! And for the first time I agree with Luca Turin - "THIS ONE IS MORE FLASHY THAN GOOD!" Longevity (kind of cheap drydown) is enormous here! And if the "real deal" is the projection/ longevity, I really prefer Carnal Flower - because you need more than personality and the desire of smell huge to wear this one!
I can see why this would not appeal to some, however the overwhelming smell of burnt rubber is really appealing to me. As King Slender says this juice is a weapon, a real weapon of mass projection, so go easy with this one, as too many sprays will have you reaching for the gas mask, you have been warned!! Dirty, Musky, Sexy, Vulgar, Beautiful
As a so-called rich oriental for grown ups, Musc Ravageur is permeating with a sexy, playful flamboyance and a certain je ne sais quoi that only the French do best. Unfolding with a deceptive opening which has Maurice Roucels stylistic handwriting all over it, its a stark contrast to the eventual evolution, as it slowly and progressively weaves its magic into a lusty siren of a fragrance. Beginning with a mouth watering and tantalizing cool icy bergamot and tangerine, set against a broad backdrop of lavender, the surprise to come of rich woods, musks and spices are yet to make their full entrance to the boudiour, although they remain subtly present. Never the less, its not particularly dirty at this point, but there are some very slight medicinal under currents attributed to the musk, which may equate for the *gasp* old man smell association which many seem to be mysteriously picking up. I dont find the animalic/skank/(insert word here) particularly challenging or off putting, but rather intriguing, since it adds a certain element of mystique and French haute-naughtiness. Though I do personally find the musk rather fleeting, which is prominent in the opening, yet remains elusive as the scent progresses, rendering the name almost a misnomer at times. Whether this is down to a probable cause of being anosmic to the supposed variety of musks used is anybodies guess. Next up comes the focal point and everybodies favorite part of the strip tease, when MR turns unapologetically gourmand and begins to purr like a kitten. Unfolding with a creamy-kaleidoscopic warmth of the sweet (vanilla) and spice (clove/cinnamon) enveloping the wearer like the proverbial cashmere blanket, cozy,dependable and comforting. Staying on this course for the majority of its stay, before slowly unwinding and settling down to lightly woody, ambery base with the rich vanilic sweetness remaining the dominant player. Delicious. MR gives off a warm radiating projection, if not a little flamboyant, but without becoming vulgar, the balance of control remains impressive I must say. In closing I find the overall scent seriously seductive, decadent and immensely sensual, with the journey towing the fine line between aggressive and restrained, yet managing to pull it all off with some serious class, swagger and charm. A perfect definition of a genderless fragrance, this one works equally well on a man, woman or beast and although a victim of hype through no fault of its own, it still remains mandatory testing for a new comer to the world of niche perfumery.
Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, 2000
|Top Notes||Lavender, Bergamot|
|Middle Notes||Clove, Cinnamon|
|Base Notes||Gaiac wood, Cedar, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Tonka, Musk|
|By||Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle|
|Bottle Designer||Frederic Malle|
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