'Black (and) spices' might be the translation--not 'black spices' because the adjective is supposed to come after the noun in French. Anyway, this fragrance has lots of oddities beyond the name. I found the orange and sweet flashes of the opening very fleeting. The geranium managed to hold on and add a tiny bit of herbal freshness to balance the dark angularity of the base. The woods and spice used here have nothing to do with anything incense-y. The base is like an old wooden box--maybe a cigar box--that has been stored in a dry attic or maybe an Egyptian pyramid. When you open the box, you get only the very basso base notes of wood. It is a dark scent that reminds me of Domenico Caraceni 1913--another very dark rose, although Noir Epices is much smoother. It is a very unique note that has nothing 'perfumey' about it. As the blurb puts it 'its sensuality is elegant, never lascivious.' The very dark rosy and woody hum is brightened by the geranium and pepper. I got something kind of minty about it from time to time, although such a note is not listed. An analogous visual effect might be, say, a very powerful or spiritual person, very serious, wearing heavy, sombre earth toned clothing, but also wearing just a small swatch of sparkly netting or something else bright and a bit ephemeral. This dichotomy eases as as the base smoothes out, and the sparkly upper layer settles down to blend with the base in a more relaxed and balmy tone. This is unlike anything I have ever smelled before--quite a creative accomplishment. Not for everyone--get a sample first! For me, it was a completely new concept of fragrance. Groundbreaking. Super masculine, I would say. A woman who could rock this would be a very special person indeed.
Noir Epices by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, 2000
Rated #854 in Fragrances
The aldehydic fragrance in object is a woody-oriental that seems to get the heritage of some sumptuous spicy-oriental of the past like Youth Dew (but this one is finally less vanillic and ambery), Magie Noir and the legendary Mitsouko (but less fruity-hesperidic, mossy and earthy). The appalling aldehydic chord of citrus, rose-geranium, spices and patchouli grounds in a while a sort of dreadful and vintage aura around, an aura of mystery that is not properly dark in my olfactory vocabulary but that conjures on me the atmosphere of some claustrophobic attics of old buildings in the down town, full of objects, chandeliers and tapestries. The fragrance starts spicy and ends the same in an olfactory structure that makes the spices (mostly cinnamon and black pepper) whirling around the link of geranium-rose, orange in the first stage, than around sandalwood and overall patchouli. In order to preserve a touch of modernity i suppose there isn't bergamot in the top despite i perceive its proper hint of retro. The fragrance is dry, dusty and almost incensey with nuances of orange, cinnamon and rose under my nose, the sweetness is moderate, it's the indolic mildness of rose-geranium and nutmeg, the mild touch of sandalwood. The link of geranium, cedarwood and patchouli impresses restrained severity to the juice that is finally bold, unisex and misty with the florals soared by aldehydes. Another great concoction for us.
Noir Epices opens up and continues for the first one to two hours with a blast of spiced orange that reminds me very much of a spiced orange tea with some geranium mixed in at the start before focusing primarily on the orange and spices like clove and nutmeg at its heart. The spices remain in a more subdued form through the base notes that include sandalwood and patchouli. In my opinion, the base notes are definitely the best part of the scent, and if you can survive the tenacious "orange tea" heart you are rewarded well in the end. Longevity is excellent, but projection is very average. Noir Epices is a fine overall rendition, but I have a hard time recommending it without reservation due to the length of time you have to wait to get to the good stuff. 3 out of 5 stars.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around it. It's definitely an interesting concept to create an oriental with loads of spices and no vanilla. At the opening, there is a burst of spiky, glorious, warm spices blended with floral sweetness. At this point, Im in love. (Which explains the impulse purchase.) Then as it starts to dry down in the next hour or so, Noir Epices gets dryer and dryer, to the point where it starts to catch at the back of my throat. I dont have a problem with soapy clean scents, but theres nothing decidedly noir or epices about this laundry-sheets drydown, and I hate to admit it but Id much rather the fragrance was a little less over-architectured, and just stayed that fuzzy, sensual, inviting cloud of spices. I give it props for being daring and day-appropriate since it dries down so clean and transparent, but I was looking for something a little less clever and a good deal more warm and accessible.
Huge thumbs up on this one:-) When i first smelt it i was having that woooooow effect, my surprise could not be greater. Its name did not reveal anything of what was going to happen! Noire for me has meaning of something strong, deep, oriental, epices some strong animalic musk, but not fresh sparkling, energizing orange-geranium opening!!! I love geranium, this flower by itself is like citrus flower, emanating citrusy feel, combined with my favourite orange:-) , this perfume is stunning, nothing similar to anything i have tried yet, would make it perfect summer scent as well as all round year scent, wearable, and just hits every box with me Can not believe this combination was not tried before, but this is the most refreshing scent i know:-) modern orange!! Near chypre how they say and i agree, patchouly-sandalwood combo, the one i love in 31 rue cambon, maharanih intense , and here too!
meh. this smells like my neighbors house in the 70's who used to make homemade candles. just the most basic kitchen ingredients here. nothing special.
Tasteful and elegant spicy-woody concoction, pretending to be Yvresse/Champagne done right for guys. Lasts a very long time, tremendous radiance and very noticeable sillage. Excellent.
OK, after a couple of months of wearing all 3 of the Editions I ordered. I have to admit that this one is the closest to my heart .. in fact, possibly closer than Habit Rouge and even Une Rose. It's again, like Une Rose, deceptive in its intensity and strength.. because like Une Rose it's a very disciplined animal. Almost like passion based on a mathematical or architectural formula but with the formula well-thrown away once the creation or the journey starts!! I've worn it in heat, in cold, in rain and in sun.. and it's never behaved... it's always been alive, conversing with me, making me notice it on myself and ultimately making me believe a bit at a time in BEAUTY, Passion, the passing of age and that inexplicable feeling of sadness that all contact with art engenders. it's the Edition I wear the most often (followed by Une Rose)... It's a good scent for an artist, a musician, definitely NOT for a fop, a flirt, or a politician. Nothing very safe here (and not in that same wild unsafe sexual way that Musc Ravageur possesses) It's really an invitation to rediscover some poetry in life. Pretty intense stuff with a cool cool attitude
I love the orange & rose top notes. Nutmeg and cinnamon are warm & spicy making it, for me anyway, a winter fragrance.
Scent begins with a severe orange opening; some warm spices create backdrop. A fruity accord, almost like cherry cordial, begins oozing unhappily out of the mix. Just when I thought I couldnt take anymore, a rose note came at me, like a louche drunk crashing a Constant Comment tea party. Rose never leaves the party, instead plopping down on a divan and snoring loudly. Nutmeg and cinnamon have a quiet conversation nearby. After an hour or two, some woods arrive, but by then its too late. Sadly, the party drags on and on and onOh Noir Epices, my high hopes have been dashed.
Noir Epices by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, 2000
|Top Notes||Orange, Rose, Geranium|
|Middle Notes||Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Clove, Pepper|
|Base Notes||Patchouli, Cedarwood, Sandalwood|
|By||Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle|
|Bottle Designer||Frederic Malle|
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