Oud Stars : Najaf by Xerjoff, 2012

An oddly appealing fruity tar opening, the apricot-like osmanthus note a bit bilious under a blast of darkness and smoke. Theres a Lonestar Memories kind of daring about the tar effect; here the feel is less smoky, more leather-of-ages and a richly cured tobacco mixed in with the deepest notes of tire rubber and petrol. Much later this evolves in a more woody direction. The lack of floral distractions is a big plus and wearing it gives instant access to the fetish dungeons of the mind. In that sense its raunchy in a very specialized kind of way (not everyone will read it as such) and I shall drain the 15ml discovery set sample before too long. After a drop in volume an hour or two in, Najaf re-emerges as quite a comfortable plumped out leather, the osmanthus now fully integrated. This is a perfume of pretty impressive evolution the next day whats left, though faint, moves into sweetish Arabian attar territory. Thoroughly satisfying, even if not quite achieving greatness.

This is what an oriental fragrance should smell like. Deep and misterious with HEAVY sillage and almost INFINITE lasting power. The ingredients are well blended. Opening is a bit flowery, then dries down to slightly smoky sweet and ambery/oudy base that lasts for ages. Wonderful stuff.

Najaff opens with accord of mom´s make-up drawer - waxy lipstick and powder compresses. It´s trajectory reminds me a bit of Al Khatt, in the sense that the prettiest openings in this series are intentionally paired with the most challenging of the ouds. It then verges on the edges of Ambre Sultan with its dry herbs (an element of perfumery that I never find completely agreeable), adding a smokiness that is unfortunately ashy, not sweet. In the midsection, I sense strong links to MFK´s Absolue pour le Soir with cedar and smokey sandalwood, trading osmanthus for the ylang-ylang. I have trouble with this one. It's not particularly dirty, just a little sneeze-inducing with me; it draws you in gently but then subjects your nose too much dry powder and smoke. There is little RICH to be found in this when compared to others in the line. Excepting some middle moments where I feel some of the attractive cedar pull of Dzongka (without the incense), Najaff produces more head-ache than Arabian escape to this novice nose, but certainly presents an original essay for those wanting alternatives to the standard issues in the oud-of-the-month club.

There's something weirdly sexual about Najaf. Some intial Zafar-like cheesiness. Najaf smells strongly of vaseline or liquid gel. Has a perfumed gumminess. Have you been dreaming about an osmanthus-scented personal lubricant for use with a significant other, or for those quiet moments alone? Your search may be over, dearest. Unique but never unpleasant. Can be a little heady in a Vicks VapoRub way. Takes on a more dark nuttiness as the patchouli starts to weigh in. You wonder, "Where is this going next?" You realize the tobacco may be contributing to the vaseline note. As the drydown continues you catch whiffs of something akin to Santal Blush or at least a Santal-Blush-scented vaseline. Two or three hours in and Najar is fading pretty badly. Najaf is a minor key tour de force in the way that Zafar is. Wearability aside, anyone who likes to smell interesting things should try it.