Oxford & Cambridge by Czech & Speake, 1994

Created by a small independent perfumer, John Stephen, who runs the Cotswold Perfumery in England. The following comments apply to the (shaving) soap which is by far the richest and best version of the fragrance. The soap fragrance is in fact not a typical lavender at all, it owes a lot to oakmoss, so if you like the dry, rather smoky and medicinal smell of Yugoslavian oakmoss, you will like this product. Also perhaps, there is some clary sage and ambergris but the sweet vanilla base of so many lavender perfumes is thankfully absent. Generally I'm not overkeen on Czech and Speake but this is a notable exception, worthy of the great institutions and their venerable traditions. The fragrance level is very generous and it will scent your bathroom nicely. No doubt due to a goodly amount of concretes and resinoids. I haven't come across a fragrance this characterful since Roger and Gallet's Savon lavande disappeared some forty years ago, replaced by an insipid modernised version. See the rather amusing boat race video Cz and Sp have commissioned in support of the product: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbABpnGRSBw Somebody should have told the animators that oxbidge oarsmen weild only one oar, not two as in a small pleasure boat, but perhaps I'm being pedantic. The music is delightful.

OK: I'm finally going to do this. Yes, basenoteurs, I'm a renegade. You all knew that, didn't you? My finger has been itching for months now and I am finally breaking down and spilling on OC: I don't like it. Now, this is huge coming from me, the quintessential and ultimate lavender maniac. Anybody interested in starting a lavender boxing match? I'm your man: I know them all by heart--at least the ones that matter. Here's how it pans out: Effectively, OC screams holy grail for about three seconds when first applied: It's dry, tart and minty with a hint of the very english geranium floating about in it--but then...oh, but then.... it falls flat on it's aristocratic sunburnt nose. Knocks the tea tray clean off the table. Any lavender lover will tell you that lavender does not translate well to incense, and this is precisely what OC harkens--to wit--lavender incense. What truly does set it apart is its longevity and the sincerity with which it is presented. Clearly, this is very fine. Obviously, this is expensive. This is nothing like any other lavender soliflore out there. Serge Lutens "Gris Clair" comes to mind, but that's about as far as it goes. Here's my reasoning. A lavender fancier does not want a gong show of epic proportion in sillage and effect. A lavender fancier does not wish to deodorize a room upon entering it. This would lead one to infer that OC is a kind of nuclear age lavender created for the younger set with damaged noses. It's purple! It's loud! It's glamorous! It's remarkable! It turns heads! This gets sickening after awhile, and it simply won't stop being spectacular. It tries so very painfully hard to be The Best Lavender In The World, and ends up simply being the most potent. If you want indelible lavender that won't go away and explodes in every direction, in everyone's face, screaming relentlessly away at the top of it's lungs that it's rich, privileged and better than you, you got it. If you are a true lavender fancier, you will toss this in the bin: It doesn't even do for scenting linens. The absolute antithesis of what a lavender soliflore should be. A more fitting and clever name for it would be "Eau de Rah," but I'm afraid that would be too subtle: True to itself, it must spell out its status in ultra-violet and screeching white....OXFORD....and....and CAMVRIDGE!!!!!...."By appointment to lovers of the obvious."