Paris by Coty, 1923

I have a sample of vintage "parfum" . I get mostly powdered violets on my skin. I know...I see that violets is not on the list of notes. I can construe this a lilacs then: Sweet 'purple' floral. It's constrained/delivered in a classic structure. Aldehydes deliver a this-is-perfume! message and the basenotes underwrite the flowers with soft skin muskiness. After the violets/lilacs fade out, there is a bit of anonymous rose-carnation to it. Overall very discreet, very traditional, very lady like. You might get out your white gloves. NO ADVENTURE!

In the beginning it's all Lilac, Carnation and Rose for me. Then, in the dry down, the more anilmalic notes start to emerge. Not a big fan of florals, it's the fact that the florals have that past-their-prime feel with animalic undertones that add the drama that saves it for me. I can imagine that this must have been as unusual as Serge Lutens' Tubereuse Crimminelle when it came out in the 1920's. This is definitely rich, heavily floral, and of its time, but I love to wear this in the first warm days of spring as I trim the Jasmine in my yard. Intoxicating!

This is a beautiful floral scent, quite different from most. I don't get the aldehydes or the carnation, but everything else listed is coming through. I have the eau de toilette, which is usually rather strong in a very old scent, but not this one. It is light, zero sillage and 30 minutes later, I have to literally press my wrist into my nose to smell it. What a shame! I may try for a stronger version as it is really a captivating loveliness.