This is very turbulent leather, it opens as mentholated smoked ham, unusual combination of notes, then it smells animalic and herbal at the same time, and reminds me at certain parts of my reference leather scent Montale Cuir the Arabie, but not as nice Spanish leather smells like apotheque, and calms down in some bitter herbal mix, not having much to do with leather scent, reminded me a little bit of Cuir Lancome at moments too, that floral smokeyness,its nice on its own, but is too green for my taste maybe
Peau D'Espagne by Santa Maria Novella, 1901
Rated #1335 in Fragrances
l get a mentholated opening, reminiscent to my nose of certain disinfectants, particularly Dettol. This soon gives way to a dry leather, with just a touch of sweetness when sniffed from a distance. ln the heart, the leather turns salty & animalic, like warm male skin, reminding me of Dans Tes Bras. Later still, the base is a soft, lightly powdery leather, fading out after around five hours. l find this fragrance surprisingly cuddly, not at all harsh or austere as l was expecting. l would encourage more of you ladies out there who love leathers to try this one!
I've worn the Peau d'Espagne now for a couple of days from a sample and simply, I'm blown away. I find it hard to describe how I feel about it. It's old yet has a modern abstract feeling about it. Very much un-mainstream. I absolutely love the birch tar note in there and that adds a real "old world" woody aspect to the fragrance. The whole time this is going on you have faint floral/herbaceous notes floating about in there and they are sitting at the side on a pillow of talc. The star of this scent though is the medicinal/balmy/ambery binding in the base which along with the dryness of this scent, brings all the notes together. "Leather " fragrances can be cloying (GFT Spanish Leather) and can sometimes be over the top (Knize Ten). I agree with one of the previous reviews saying this is stronger than the above but it is much more perfectly balanced than any other leather I've worn before. I had previously started a thread in the forum here about finding a scent which was the smell of walking into the entrance hall of Santa Maria Novella in Florence. A lot of answers came back but this is that scent (maybe adding in a little of SMN Pot Pourri), this is alchemy, this is Santa Maria Novella. The smell of a perfumer in a centuries old building with surrounds just as old. Old oak which has soaked up all the fragrances past and holds those scents as memories for everyone to smell in the future. This is simply wonderful. Now...... to try and source a bottle.
As a great admirer of leather fragrances, I can say that this is, without a doubt, the driest and darkest leather fragrance I have ever smelled. All other leathers, even Knize Ten and Kolnisch Juchten, smell like a hot fudge sundae by comparison. It's also got one of the most authentic smelling leather accords I've ever experienced. It smells black, smoky and meaty, without smelling like beef jerky. There are bitter, harsh herbs underlying the leather smell, and they only add to the perfume's dryness and austerity. Peau d'Espagne is so well blended, I find it difficult distinguish any of its individual notes. It just smells like hot black leather for several hours. The drydown is my favorite part. The leatheriness tones down quite a bit after about four hours of wearing this, and what you're left with is a stark, intensely aromatic herbal drydown with hints of leather and patchouli. This is awesome. Peau d'Espagne is almost ridiculously masculine. It belongs in the Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme class of brooding, unsmiling, cruel fragrances for hard-asses. MY RATING: 8.5/10
Peau d'Espagne opens with an almost camphorous mix of heavy herbs, creating a menthol-like accord. It is quite challenging, but not unpleasant. This open very slowly recedes but never dissipates, instead allowing a rather strong birch leather note to emerge and take the fore. By this time the overall scent is much more wearable and enjoyable. I have a hard time identifying any other individual notes here, as the herbal mix still obscures a lot of anything else the scent has to offer. Projection is good, and longevity is above average. Peau d'Espagne is definitely not my kind of leather scent. That said, I don't dislike it either. The opening is tough to get through due to that herbal eucalyptus mix that is just downright potent. If you can make it past the opening and early heart notes, then there is a decent leather here to discover... The problem is I fear most, myself included will not want to experience the couple hours of Peau d'Espagne in order to get the relatively good payoff much later when there are so many good leather offerings on the market, both classic and contemporary. I definitely think Peau d'Espagne is a nice scent in its own way and recommend a sniff to leather fans, but I think I will keep to more pleasant leathers like Cuiron and Cuir Pleine Fleur. I give Peau d'Espagne a 3 out of 5 rating and a strong neutral.
It is a challenging perfume. It is very strong. It makes Bandit and Knize Ten quiver if that were a measure of strength. Of course brawn is not always the solution, sometimes brain is required. Pd'E has both but bigger muscles. Its one of the few perfumes that I only spray 3 or 4 sprays. Stark, astringent, strict, austere are words that come to mind. I don't wear it often, I think I can't, but when I do I enjoy it tremendously.
Oh, is this great. Finally a leather scent with no harsh isobutylquinoline!
A very natural smelling leather scent. Released in 1901, Peau D'Espagne is still very wearable and while it has a lot of the classic clichè of that time perfumery, it still shows no aging. An ante-litteram animalic leather that smells much better than most of its successors. A must try!
This is a delightful, old-school scent: at once dryly herbal and richly perfume-y. Aromatic spices and perhaps some oakmoss give this a scent like fine old fougere soap. The leather note is restrained, interesting, and elusive. This has a suave, smooth, attractive character. The notes are substantial but not heavy. They are natural-smelling, and thankfully not sweet or cloying. This one intrigues me, since I dont usually like leather scents.
Incredibly spicy, Peau d'Espagne is a leather concoction. But it's a 1900's leather, not at all a 1920's one, like Lanvin Scandal, Chanel Cuir de Russie, or Knize Ten. It's more natural, spicy, woody, herbal and ambery, more medicinal, but a masterpiece!
Peau D'Espagne by Santa Maria Novella, 1901
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