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Phileas by Nina Ricci, 1984

93% Positive Reviews
Rated #588 in Fragrances

Posted
Yum! The previous reviewers have captured the 'essence' of Phileas quite well, and so I can't add much except this: The only currently available fragrance that immediately came to mind when I smelled it the first time was Wrappings by Clinique... although it certainly resembled a few others upon reflection. Something to add to your collection, if you can find it.

Posted
Reticent , delicate, serene, and slightly mysterious, Phileas might seem to give the lie to the belief that a fragrance with celery as a dominant theme could ever be a thing of beauty. Fragile and misty, it seems to somehow combine the impression of dew on a leaf in a kitchen garden with the aroma of some bare and exquisite ballroom which has just been freshly cleaned - delicate oudoor smells of early morning mingled with the smells of highly civilized interiors. The later developments of Phileas continue in the same vein but with a gradually stealing warmth. Too generous spraying can give a slightly animalic tinge to these later stages. Phileas does have something in common with dry herbal fragrances like Yatagan and Sud Est but it is altogether more refined and sophisticated. I also see the partial affinity with Oscar Pour Lui mentioned by the estimable PigeonMurderer's review.

Posted
This is a rare gem! A sadly discontinued fragrance of immense beauty. Phileas is quite a complex composition that opens with a considerable amount of aldehydes, citruses and juniper for an overall effect that is at the same time stark, freshly-green and almost powdery/soapy. Patchouli rapidly makes its appearance joined by other spices (a light cinnamon), coniferous notes, leather and tobacco. In this phase Phileas reaches its peak of beauty with its perfect balance between the classic powerhouse style and an incredibly sophisticated elegance. In the drydown I get a lot of resinous notes (labdanum), pine (again), and a subtle cedarwood laying on a slightly metallic amber. Compelling and unique.

 This is a very hard to find fragrance, so if you're lucky enough to find it, don't miss the chance to get it. Complex and definitely overlooked. A masterpiece.

Posted
I still have the miniature they gave me as a sample in Paris the day it was launched. Althought I did not like this fragrance at first, it grew on me rather fast. In a way, Philéas reminds me of Yatagan by Caron. They share the pine needles, vetiver, patchouli and leather notes and both of them have that phantom celery note that is not mentioned in either olfactive pyramid. Although I love Philéas, I can understand why it did not catch on. This is certainly not an easy fragrance to wear. However, those who can wear it well will most definitely make heads turn.

Posted
Phileas clearly has its small band of ardent admirers, but this mid-eighties creation has been largely forgotten since its discontinuation. It has three very distinct phases, each one satisfying and in keeping with the Mediterranean mood Nina Ricci has attempted to evoke. The opening is a blend of boozy herbs and citrus, which is perhaps more soothing than it is refreshing. It is a gloriously rich phase, ensuring a quite luxurious introduction. The middle phase is a finely balanced period, using the citrus presence in the opening as a fulcrum for the spicier heart note components. What should perhaps feel slightly cluttered and chaotic, actually feels mature, composed and even a little dirty. Despite being more leathery and spicy, there are similarities in the drydown with JHL by Aramis. Phileas has the edge in this department, in its concluding hours, it emits the sense of a job well done. The longevity is good by Ricci standards, some four to five hours being a reasonable return. The sillage is not pronounced, and I find it is more enjoyable in the wake that it leaves rather than what is evident on the skin. Having tried Phileas at various times of the year, I find it really blossoms when the temperatures drop a little, and the spicier side is allowed to shine. Club and Signoricci are technically as accomplished as this, but Phileas is by far the most interesting masculine fragrance that Nina Ricci have ever produced.

Posted
There is a bit of truth in in all the reviews written before, so I will just add a few comments instead of another review. For my European environment this is the ideal cologne for frequent use: versatile and fresh as a fragrance can be that isn't based on citrus, mediterranean or acquatic elements. It is different enough to get you noticed, and I have yet to meet the person who will associate it with anything from the past, maybe because it is bare of sentimental elements and reminiscences of barber shops. Guerlain haters may love it, romantics better stay away!

Posted
Unique vegetal chypre with animalic nuances. Something in between Oscar de la Renta`s Pour Lui and Yatagan. Very sharp and temperamental on my skin in the beginning perhaps mainly due the aldehydes, but the slightly soapy drydown smooth things up nicely.

There is a strong, perfume-y, feminine touch to this one. Thats actually very common with these old masculine chypre fragrances.

Great scent with wonderfully captivating concept and packing. I believe it had a terrific side products as well, such as bar soap.

To my mind probably one of the most tragic discontinuations ever.


Be very careful in purchase; I know there are bottles of this one with already spoiled juices inside. It was longtime ago discontinued, and this is kind of juice that (rich with lots of ingredients, including naturals) unfortunately doesnt stand for time the best.

Posted
Stinky! But in a good way. First sniff I recognized it as yet another 80's powerhouse. Fun fact: it's not, it fools you. It's still citrusy, mossy and a little dirty but it's quiet about it. Quiet for an 80's scent that is. Very nice but I still wwould have to go with Paco Rabanne pH or Bijan because they have a woodiness to them I like. Phileas has more of a vegetal/herbal tone to it and would be good to wear in the fall and spring or on cooler summer nights.

Posted
Bought a miniature blind, after all the good reviews I had to try it. Sorry, but I dont like this one at all. Its very original, but it smells just like Arabian soap. Soapy fragances can be good, but this is just too much, it smells cheap soapy.
Phileas by Nina Ricci, 1984
Description:

Details:
DetailValue
Launched Date1984
GenderMen
AvailabilityDiscontinued
ByNina Ricci
Base Notes
Bottle Designer
Middle Notes
Perfumer
Top Notes
Models:
Model Name/TypeMPNEAN/UPC
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