R De Capucci by Roberto Capucci, 1986

A gigantic old-school leathery-chypre with a glorious past and an excellent quality. Exoticism, nostalgia and tradition in a bottle. This wonderful oakmoss-leather-patchouli classic scent had for sure elements in common with other glorious fragrances as Antaeus and Aramis and i agree who with writes this is a more fluidy and wearable sort of Antaeus. Both are great and similar in the turned out idea of cool masculinity but R Capucci is less aggressive, cutting and herbal in my opinion, it's as mossy-leathery and darkly cool as Antaeus but in a less barber-shop kind of dimension. I smell some olfactory resemblances with the great and unfortunately discontinued Ho Hang Club cause both are uncompromissingly masculine, shadowy and classic but in a finally smooth, softly mild and mossy-leathery way. I'm amazed by this kind of fragrances that are virile, classic, cool and darkly boise'-suede. I love the vintage link of bergamot-aldehydes-rose-jasmine-leathery oakmoss but an important role is in here played by patchouli and ambergris, the first one imprinting obscure boldness while the second  (on the side of vetiver) the dusty-earthy, mysterious and pungent virility. The combination of musk and moss, on the side of bergamot, lemon, herbs and aldehydes imparts a sort of classic and angular  barber-shop exotic vibe while the spices and the neutral floral notes (rose in primis) infuse the typical barely mild kind of opacity. An hint of tonka in the base exudes just a touch of soft powder due to turn the smell out endly more smooth and comforting. A great, great classic.

It is difficult to find any real beauty within R de Capucci, but I do admire its deft use of ingredients. Despite the presence of lemon and bergamot in the opening, it is not a refreshing phase, more a dense accord incorporating the greener elements. It is a very assured and confident beginning, rich, deep and creating something spare and efficient. As it develops, it feels as if the notes are closely calibrated, ensuring everything remains tight and contained. There are no big shifts leading into the heart notes, just subtle changes of emphasis. It retains its dark green presence, and it almost acquires a liquorice quality during this middle phase. Where RdC really begins to get my attention is in the drydown, as it is here that the fragrance become more expansive and receptive to other influences. Much less tight than before, there is just sufficient softness from the amber and tonka to render the leather free from any harshness. The moss and leather blend has been very competently done, and the resulting balance and harmony is impressive. The sillage and longevity are more than acceptable, and it never really ceases to exude a sense of austerity and efficiency. It is not decorative or expressive, more a temperate dark green presence that ensures that the wearer exudes a sense that they are not trying too hard. I like that once in a while

R de Capucci: R de Capucci was probably the coolest dude back then. it is well mannered, mildly powdery, fresh out of the barbershop with a nice after shave cologne kinda feel. it undoubtedly comes across as a green scent..not gritty, but intense, more like holding a bunch of freshly sprouted leaves against nose...doing so, the leaves would give off a slighlty bitter, almost citrusy feel..my point is, the citrus doesnt take ones attention away from th lovely green accord, it's anything but restrained and classy and it wants to make an impression as an remarkably fresh and green scent without smellin dated or lemony. Surprisingly, after 15 minutes of application, it gets a bit powdery and the green notes gets a bit more intense, here it reminds me of the structure of the chanel classic, Pour Monsieur. if anything, this could've easliy become Pour Monsiuer Concentrate...would have been very apt. Notes of lemon gleam past now with a shin to it, giving this gem a freshness and making it more versatile. floral accords adds to the charm and gives it the signature accord of an era it represented..basenote are pretty soft, mildly powdery, sweet, mossy with lots of fresh vetiver, vanilla like sweetness and patchouli..
This is for someone who admires Chanel Pour Monsieur type scents