Rochas Man by Rochas, 1999

The sadly discontinued Rochas Man has been an "olfactory sensation" for years, a really argumentative fragrance (for some people a genial experiment for others an hazarded failure) and surely one of the better received (by the market) Maurice Roucel's creations together with Helmut Lang Cologne and Musc Ravageur. This fragrance plays for sure a game of contrasts, being at once herbal/aromatic and gourmandish, sweet and salty/( vaguely ozonic type), initially fresh and finally enveloping in a warmer (but never cloying or soffocating) way. The beginning is intoxicating in a fresh, citrusy and aromatic way, a burst of lavender (the element that urged many to reclaim the presumptive A* Men inspiration to Rochas Man), bergamot and herbs. As soon as (in a short while) the soothing elements (balmy, moderately sweet and smooth) keep to rise up from the base (with a weird rubbery/"caffeinated"/musky kind of vibe balancing the ambery vanillic sweetness), a sort of central salty/peppery touch juxtaposes its substance in the general artistic struggle of opposites. The dry down (with its sweet/opaque sort of smell conjuring to some the cappuccino aroma) is musky and balmy and suave, kind of milky/boise with undertones of "untoasted" dark coffee, saltiness, musk, tenacious lavender and may be dry fruits or berries. The ambery final presence is prickly and masculine with its sort of dusty/incensey penetrating virility. An unconventional and pioneering oriental that, despite does not embody my ideal olfactory solution, stands out for its versatile and appealing power.