Sira Des Indes by Jean Patou, 2006

Uh-oh, fruity! The opening is quite fruity, but, surprisingly, Im not as indifferent to it as as with other fruity opening accords. I guess, like most Patou fragrances Ive tried, this one is done with discretion and elegance. No kidding I actually sort of LIKE this fruity floral opening. I did smell the banana at first, and the pear, but they were somehow muted perhaps the cardamom. I didnt smell the berries, and I usually love berry notes, so maybe they contributed a lot to my appreciation of the accord. More subtlety and sophistication in the heart: I cant really identify much in the smooth floral heart accord except the jasmine (I never miss jasmine my favorite) and milk note. I enjoy how jasmine and milk complement each other: they are both so richly middle tone in vibrational intensity. The middle is floral, I guess its not flowery, and I have difficulty separating out the individual floral notes: It would be a good background for something more interesting taking place in the foreground, but I dont think it holds up on its own. There is no bass or high vibrational level to balance the neutral middle. The scent has become a little too dull. The base doesnt change the drabness. Its a well-made base of good notes and it smells quite natural, but it needs a little more going on in the foreground.

I started out enjoying in spite of the fact that its another fruity floral. The structure of the fragrance is impeccable, but it needs more drama, more counterpoint, more anything. I suppose it is a discreet, well-made, non-offending fragrance for the office, but I dont see it very much more than that.

If "Guerlain" has a gift for designing scents to suit dusk and sundown, the house of "Patou" excells at capturing the essence of dawn and early morning. Permeating through every Patou potion is a burst of shimmering sunshine---not like the loud, bleaching beams of midday, necessarily, but the quiet freshness of a new day. "Sira des Indes", the last magical inclusion in the house of Patou, wears with the same quiet optimism as "Joy" but where "Joy" develops into nylon-stocking, powdery-musk-smoothness after an initial burst of floral notes, "Sira Des Indes" develops into something richer in texture. The bulgar/wheat protein notes lend an air of rolling beads of honey and oil, while a subtle banana adds tart creaminess. It all actually reminds me quite a bit of Serge Lutens "Douce Amere", with that same fascinating contrast between savory and sweet notes; however, "Douce Amere" has more of a dry "cut" between cured fruits and sweets, while "Sira Des Indes" remains liquid and honeyed throughout drydown. It's intoxicating, highly sensual, carnal...but with a freshness that will never allow it to be described as "dirty" (something of a relief to modern noses; those trained to find disinfectant and surface cleaner to be the smell of "sexy"). I loved how this wore on me, so well, in fact, that it's earned "signature scent" status in my collection. Can't beat Patou!

Rich sweet floral, no matter the claims of gourmand accords, the opening is all classic Patou.

However, in the process of drydown, towards the middle and finish - I swear it's the aroma of an ice cream parlor. Not just the fragrance of ice cream alone .... it's the fragrance of the whole entire parlor: fruit, marshmallow whip, sparkling clean floors, over-working a/c, everything is there.

Vanilla is here, oh yes, but so definitely an ice cream vanilla - it's chilly! how can Patou convey temperature? I can only guess.
And the fruit....these are not the ripe, heavy bananas flecked with brown from the top of your kitchen counter, nor are these the classy caramelized delicacies found in a Bananas Foster. Instead these are quite indeed the fresh, perhaps even slightly green, chilled, subdued, bananas of an ice cream split. Other fruits mix in, with the florals still shouting quite loudly, making the banana even less prominent. But they are there.

Between the heavy floral notes, the icy cold fruit, chilly vanilla, and the hints of mildest white musk anchoring things, a more appropriate name for this fragrance would be "First Date at the Ben & Jerry's". Which is actually a compliment. A great summer scent, very fun.