Pleased to deepen the knowledge of this dodgy interesting irish niche brand due to my friend Foustie so kind to introduce me in a new olfactory acquaintance. Terre de l'Encense is (at least for a part of its development) an utterly transparent and effectively mineral take on the iris-frankincense accord. At the beginning the dustiness is supremely sharp, floral, vaguely citric/ozonic and aromatic. The outcome is a really wearable shadowy experience which smells slightly incensey in a sort of aqueous, peppery and vaguely dusty floral way. Some mineral/ozonic molecules turn initially out the light incense so mineral and almost refreshing. The note of iris (which i suppose is in here flanked by a light jasmine) reminds me barely the light floral note present in Eau d'Iris by Heeley because of the cedary/aqueous similar floral undertone with a vague reminiscence about far in the memory fragrances as Trophee Lancome For Men and Nino Cerruti (that are absolutely not minimalistic like this one) which replace the incense with a mossy/resinous and cedary labdanum and the iris with the jasmine. Following the full development on my skin i notice that finally the juice becomes less "invisible" and slightly more smooth/resinous because of minimal hints of ambergris and despite its undeniable mineral (sweet/salty) lightness with the "colours" of the iris/jasmine and the peppery frankincense. Lost its royal initial sharpness and disclosed as a bit more smooth/sweet stuff, the juice loses its initial full pleasure inside of me despite its remarkable quality. Close to the skin and a bit faint in duration. Sharply comforting, clean and elegant, yet out of the sensationalisms.
Terre De L'Encens by Cloon Keen Atelier, 2012
Rated #2541 in Fragrances
A lovely silvery mineral incense. It's cool without being stark (l'eau froide *shudder*). I can't detect iris in it all which is a good thing for me because I associate that with powdery old lady fragrances. But I'm guessing the iris is giving it the lovely silvery wood aspect which is mossy and earthy without being wet or loamy. It's very refined, restrained and sophisticated. An isolated windswept shrub in the dunes.
Two words for you - Iris Frankincense! The iris note here is definitely NOT the 'grated carrot' type note in iris silver mist. It is rooty iris, but not earthy, if you know what I mean! To me the rooty iris note seems 'polished' & 'refined'. Its like someone took the peppery frankincense of armani prive bois d'encens and made it much more transparent and less austere and added a refined rooty iris note. It opens with citrusy aldehydes, the main event is peppery citrusy frankincense and rooty iris and finishes with a woody drydown. I think it is completely unisex. My husband sniffed it and said "its beautiful. It is definitely incense, but wearable". To me it is an elegant resinous transparent woody iris frankincense. I have never smelled anything like it. Bonus Points: Cloon Keen Atelier is an Irish Niche Perfumery. Federic Malle has competition!
Cloon Keen is a obscure irish niche firm with only three deliveries so far and Terre De L'Ences is, clearly, their take on the biblical resin. The main accord is centered around pepper, woody frankincense and iris. If this may lead one to think about Dzongkha or, say, Silver Factory, let me tell you you're going the wrong way. Terre De L'encens is definitely closer to Un Parfum des Sens et Bois by The Different Company but with iris instead of violet and, most of all, without the typical harshness of most of the fragrances playing the same woody-peppery game. The particular twist here, is provided by a sparkling combo of aldehydes and ozonic notes that, together with a slightly earthy orris accord creates a terrific, yet incredibly minimalistic texture that smells of clean tanned skin with salty nouances as opposed to "aquatic" and "sporty". As they state on their website, it smells more mineral than watery. Definitely a skin scent, almost invisible, smooth and dry yet, somewhat, charismatic, striking and extremely nicely blended. A perfect summery incense. Last but not least, very reasonably priced. Big thumbs up!
Terre de L'Encens begins with a surprisingly fresh splash, which gives way almost immediately to the main accord, a particularly peppery frankincense. In fact it is pepper that dominates the early development of this fragrance for some time. The Iris is there but quietly. It brings a dry earthy pillow to the fragrance. This is not a floral fragrance at all. In the mid development, Terre de L'Encens is beautifully pitched in terms of dryness. The inspiration for this fragrance is nomadic desert traders. Cloon Keen describe it as having a quality like sand on skin. I agree. It is dry but with an undercurrent of soft warmth and salty skin. It is ochre in tone. After some time the pepper gives way to a pronounced caramel note. The labdanum most likely, although there may be benzoin there too. It softens and becomes less dry, more resinous. Iris/ Pepper/Frankincense/Wood/Resins is the overall experience. If it helps, I could say that this is far closer to VC&A Bois D'Iris than it is to Dzongkha. Terre de L'Encens is a lovely fragrance. It is well named and well realised.
Terre De L'Encens by Cloon Keen Atelier, 2012
|By||Cloon Keen Atelier|
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