Traversee Du Bosphore by L'Artisan Parfumeur, 2010

I bought this blind thanks to a very attractive price (not to mention a very generous returns policy!) and I'm pleased to say I have few regrets. Whether or not this captures the magic and essence of a trip across Istanbul's famous river, I do not know as I have never crossed it, but I have visited Turkey and I can certainly attest to the similarities between this fragrance and the sweet aroma of lokum (real rose Turkish delight) studded with pistachios and finished with grated coconut and powdered sugar. The fragrance opens with dry iris, saffron, a touch of apple and soft suede leather and this, to me, is it's strongest albeit most fleeting phase. In fact, save for these early accords, this scent might be dubbed 'a little too feminine' - even by me, an avid exponent of genderless scent appreciation. The sweet and edible heart and base notes cling very close to the skin for a reasonable amount of time and, while delectable, might be seen by some as a shade sickly for every day wear. In summary, this is a wonderful and very skilfully crafted piece of olfactory art from Bertrand Duchoufour: the quality and composition give it that unmistakable L'Artisan niche feel. If only it lasted and projected a little more robustly...

I would not describe this as impossible at all. To me, it is a bit like others among the most noteworthy of L'Artisan's line - FUN. Dzing and Poive Piquant are not something I want to wear every day, and Tea for Two has become a bit of a cliché (if still very nice). Well, Traversee du Bosphore is a bit like these - a gourmand perfume that people will ask you about because it is so very different. Sure you'll sense the worldly market vibe, but this is like nothing yet seen from the darker hallows of Duchaufour's apothecary. This is more Brazilian Carnaval than Turkish Bazaar. No dates or heavy spices in this feast, it's more of a picnic of juicy fruit, fresh figs, pistachio, and a glass of champagne in a field of honeysuckle. Nothing salty or animalic - even the musk is just there for balance and warmth. I find it to be rich without being overly sweet. More than anything, Traversee du Bosphore is CLEAN without feeling aquatic - even in the later stages where a supple leather surfaces. The lokoum is unmistakable, but there is something more pungent. Perhaps it is less about the apple on the top, and more about the freshly fermented cider in the midsection that gives this a particular sparkle. Its brightness diminishes within a few hours, but the base lasts and lasts and warms the air just as the sunset hits. The color of this juice is perfect - so deep a gold that it almost feels orange. Yes, I will wear this. In warmer seasons, after a day at the beach... this has been my go-to scent for a perfect post-shower elixir; it seems to reflect the mood of the sunset and carry you eagerly into a breezy summer's night.