Let's forget the name... this is a light gourmand eau de perfum that starts strong and rather quickly mellows down to a sweet vanilic accord. If gourmand is your thing there are much better offerings to select from ... Serge Lutens would be my best bet. TdB is pleasant but the wow factor that I would like to encounter is missing. Traces of TdB were still, but barely, evident on my skin 10 hours after application ... so the ingredients here are certainly not a joke. If you are not into sweet "exotic" offerings you might, like me, not enjoy this because despite its lightness TdB is still not transparent or translucent or trans-whatever enough. I personally find TdB quite a disappointment.
Traversee Du Bosphore by L'Artisan Parfumeur, 2010
Rated #4491 in Fragrances
I bought this blind thanks to a very attractive price (not to mention a very generous returns policy!) and I'm pleased to say I have few regrets. Whether or not this captures the magic and essence of a trip across Istanbul's famous river, I do not know as I have never crossed it, but I have visited Turkey and I can certainly attest to the similarities between this fragrance and the sweet aroma of lokum (real rose Turkish delight) studded with pistachios and finished with grated coconut and powdered sugar. The fragrance opens with dry iris, saffron, a touch of apple and soft suede leather and this, to me, is it's strongest albeit most fleeting phase. In fact, save for these early accords, this scent might be dubbed 'a little too feminine' - even by me, an avid exponent of genderless scent appreciation. The sweet and edible heart and base notes cling very close to the skin for a reasonable amount of time and, while delectable, might be seen by some as a shade sickly for every day wear. In summary, this is a wonderful and very skilfully crafted piece of olfactory art from Bertrand Duchoufour: the quality and composition give it that unmistakable L'Artisan niche feel. If only it lasted and projected a little more robustly...
I'm in love with this. To be honest, other than vanilla, I dont recognize any of the notes listed here. To me, what this smells like is very simple: freshly baked amaretti, obviously i'm talking about the pastry, not the liquor. Unmistakably gourmand, romantic and poetic. Heart warming (and a loyal companion during cold and snowy winters). A rarity, and a real pleasure to wear.
When you traverse the Bosphorus, it doesn't smell like this. It smells like Profumi del Forte's Tirrenico. This is a sweet loukhum fragrance, an orientalist point of view in perfume world :)
Play-Doh and vanilla extract. Very cloying, not enough vanilla to smell nice, It needs a sharp lingering citris to balance the warm cloying smell. Not for me.
The very first time I sniffed TdB on a paper strip I dismissed it quickly, too fruity-sweet and with an unpleasant synthetic leathery note. My tastes have evidently grown, in the meantime, as I now find TdB absolutely gorgeous and Im planning to buy a FB for the summer! The leather-a note that Ive come to love, lately- is almost not detectable on my skin; it gives instead a suede, velvety finish to the whole fragrance. The fruity- flowery sweetness, on the other hand, is an entire world to discover! First, the fruit: apples and pomegranate- sweet but also quite sour, astringent and with woody undertones amplified by a tobacco leaves note. Then the flowers: rose, iris, violet- creamy and velvety like a smooth garnet lipstick. The sweetness, finally: dusty dry, powdery, translucent like icing sugar barely covering a loukhoum and letting its juicy scent to leak out. TdB is a deliciously comforting fragrance, rich but light and airy, perfect, I guess, with every weather condition.
I would not describe this as impossible at all. To me, it is a bit like others among the most noteworthy of L'Artisan's line - FUN. Dzing and Poive Piquant are not something I want to wear every day, and Tea for Two has become a bit of a cliché (if still very nice). Well, Traversee du Bosphore is a bit like these - a gourmand perfume that people will ask you about because it is so very different. Sure you'll sense the worldly market vibe, but this is like nothing yet seen from the darker hallows of Duchaufour's apothecary. This is more Brazilian Carnaval than Turkish Bazaar. No dates or heavy spices in this feast, it's more of a picnic of juicy fruit, fresh figs, pistachio, and a glass of champagne in a field of honeysuckle. Nothing salty or animalic - even the musk is just there for balance and warmth. I find it to be rich without being overly sweet. More than anything, Traversee du Bosphore is CLEAN without feeling aquatic - even in the later stages where a supple leather surfaces. The lokoum is unmistakable, but there is something more pungent. Perhaps it is less about the apple on the top, and more about the freshly fermented cider in the midsection that gives this a particular sparkle. Its brightness diminishes within a few hours, but the base lasts and lasts and warms the air just as the sunset hits. The color of this juice is perfect - so deep a gold that it almost feels orange. Yes, I will wear this. In warmer seasons, after a day at the beach... this has been my go-to scent for a perfect post-shower elixir; it seems to reflect the mood of the sunset and carry you eagerly into a breezy summer's night.
At midpoint between turkish delight and old-fashioned paper glue. The image is of a first-floor office somewhere in a bustling Istanbul street in 1924, a clerk is busy pasting stamps on a pile of letters, while the smells from the Lokoum store downstairs waft upwards. It's an interesting smell, but impossible as a perfume for actual wear.
Traversee Du Bosphore by L'Artisan Parfumeur, 2010
|Top Notes||apple, pomegranate, tulip|
|Middle Notes||iris, leather, saffron, rose, pistachio|
|Base Notes||vanilla, musk|
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