Trussardi by Trussardi, 1982

This is one of the most beautiful leather chypres I've ever smelled.At the opening, the closest thing I can compare it to is Paloma Picasso. However, it's quieter and subtly smokier. In the far dry down it becomes soft, slightly sweet and dry like Hermes' Bel Ami. I found a 5 ml mini in an antique store in New Orleans and immediately purchased a 1.7 oz bottle on line when I got back home. Even though it was marketed as a woman's scent while it was out, this definitely has a masculine edge to it and I urge every man who's interested in leather scents to try this. You won't be disappointed. I'm really surprised that there isn't more conversation about this whether on Basenotes or on line in general. In my opinion, its highly underrated. the following are the notes listed for this scent from various perfume blogs: aldehydes, bergamot, hyacinth, galbanum, coriander, geranium, jasmine, tuberose, ylang ylang, leather, styrax, amber, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss, orris root, musk and lily of the valley (I suspect that there is also civet in this). My only complaint is that it only comes in EDT concentration and leaves something to be desired in the way of silage and longevity. But while it lasts, it's divine! It's not hard to find as it is on ebay and at very reasonable prices for it's quality. If you try it, I'd love to hear what you think. Let me know... PS...this is wonderful by itself, but layering it with a little sprits of Terre D'Hermes takes it over the top!

The opening of Trussardi has responded two different ways on my skin: Several times I smelled some powerful indole notes from the jasmine, and at other times I got a green / aromatic / slightly floral accord with reduced indole notes in the opening. Regardless, the opening reminds me a bit of the opening of Bandit, that is, Bandit without the leather overload. Trussardi has a beautifully balanced, abundant green / floral opening; green to the core; classic to the core. The heart notes make up a floral bouquet floral in texture more than in sillage, and the florals are shadowed by a delicate, clean smoky ambiance, adding a further sophistication to the green and indole notes that have reached into the floral heart. It is classically excellent, and a bit reminiscent of Trussardi Uomo except it is very much more refined and more lacking of in-your-faceness.

The rich base brings in the strong cedar / sandalwood continuing the smoke motif almost to the point of resembling incense. The base is further smoothed and refined by a musk, leather, and amber, with amber adding about the only touch of sweetness to the accord. Green shadowed by florals smoky ethereal long lasting and compelling. The inestimable Nead_Nitram is correct about its androgyny: Trussardi is feminine only in comparison to its super masculine alter ego, Trussardi Uomo. I believe that today, Trussardi could easily be marketed as unisex. Its a great one, and I wonder why it isnt better known.