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Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido, 1998

86% Positive Reviews
Rated #746 in Fragrances

Posted
I love the opening blast of wintergreen which then settles into a fab tuberose. I'm not a fan of rose perfumes and although knowing tuberose was different, had avoided it up till now! I'm in love! Interesting so is my 5 year old daughter who declares it's her favourite! Good perfume - and good staying power

Posted
Ten minutes of powerful orange blossom plus mentholic nutmeg, followed by soft tuberose plus a bit of jasmine and even less hyacinth, with the orange blossom still persisting. Given all of the reading that I did about this perfume before sampling it, I am surprised that I do not have more to say about it, but I really do not have more to say about it. It is a GOOD perfume, not special, not magical, not profound...just good. It certainly does not intrigue me like Carnal Flower or even Fracas does.

Posted
The Tubereuse Criminelle starts off with a blast of winter green and then turns rather sweet before it winds down to the core scent which is similar to Fleurs d'Oranger by Serge Lutens. I love FdO so this is good news for me, though I would have hoped that TC would be more unique. It has good projection and lasts long. I prefer wearing the freshness of FdO when moving around in the city and then save the sweetness of TC for evenings at home where I sit in my tropical garden sipping coffee, surrounded by treejasmine, frangipani and champaca trees.

Posted
l get the "petrochemical" opening described by so many others here, but to my nose it's not quite gasoline, or rubber, or disinfectant, or menthol, but strongly wintergreen. lt's also not as overpowering as l was expecting. This subsides over the first thirty minutes, & it settles into a pretty white floral with just a hint of a dark undercurrent. ln the heart l get lily, jasmine & orange blossom, but no tuberose at all! There's something cold about this fragrance; not the "florist's fridge" coolness of Carnal Flower, but something else... lt also lacks the brash seductiveness that l love about Fracas. l expected a Big White Floral on steroids, but this is a rather quiet fragrance, & like other Lutens l've tried, severely lacking in projection. Three hours in it fades to a sweetish, slightly leafy vanilla skin scent, & six hours after application it's barely detectable. l'm happy l got to try this, but for me it doesn't come close to my favourite tuberoses that l've already mentioned here. My search for "my" tuberose is already complete.

Posted
I like this insane, really it's not criminal this is just insanity in a bottle. But a little bit of crazy keeps things fun and interesting. The same applied to the treatment of Tuberose. In general I like tuberose and what various perfumers do with it. But, sometimes you get a bit bored of the buttery quality that tuberose scents can have. It all becomes more of the same. This tuberose doesn't become buttery and think it has to do with the shock to your sense opening. The menthol freshes the whole thing up and prevents the tuberose to become that nice buttery fragrance that you find so often. No it stays cold, distant and ethereal.

Posted
Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens - I own and enjoy this composition which mirrors a phoenix, the tuberose, rising out of a flood of camphoraceous petrol, to reveal its dark and sensuous qualities, magically subduing those that care to inhale.

Posted
first contact- menthol, toilet bowl cleaner, fake flowers- cannot get my nose far enough away from my wrists after 10 min- lilacs and tuberose on me, smells like a very strong yankee candle version of those scents after 30 min- creamier, deeper, much nicer (although my spouse liked it better at 10 min) after 1 hr- starting to get a bit shrill. Not sure how to describe this. Maybe I'm just getting sick of it. after 3 hrs- excellent longevity, still very much a presence, but more green and likable now. If it started and ended like this I'd get a whole bottle. Agree with everyone else the opening is strong, almost headache inducing for me, but the mellow version that follows is wearable by anyone who likes Tuberose. This will never be one of my favorites, but I'll indulge in the sample now and again just to revisit the scent.

Posted
As much as I love challenging fragrances, it took me several tests to completely get Tubereuse Criminelle. The first time I tried it (on paper) I immediately dismissed it as it was too camphoraceous, too thick and even a tad too loud. I decided it was not for me but, while visiting a major department store a few monthes later, I got a mouillette from an SA and, again, it immediately striked as too mentholated to my taste. The third and final time I got in contact with Tbereuse Criminelle was during a visit at Palais Royal in Paris where, after a purchase, I got a bunch of assorted Lutens samples including this one. When I got back home, I decided to give TC a test on skin and, with my suprise, something finally clicked. Yes, the fragrance is still pretty thick and loud but there's something perversely fascinating in it. The opening mentholated accord is paired to a rubbery note and an overall vibe of turned flowers. There's something extremely wrong with Tubereuse Criminelle. So wrong to cross the border of mere ugliness and go far beyond towards something completely compelling. The fragrance slowly takes form and morphes into a magnificent floral concoction where tuberose is surely the main star but it's very well blended with other florals to create an extremely elegant composition. Surely not for everybody and still one of those fragrances that need to be properly tested before coming with a final virdict but, with some passion and patience, you will discover one of the closest thing to a masterpiece. If we could compare fragrances to music, Tubereuse Criminelle would definitely be the most distant thing from pop-music. Together with ISM and MKK, at the top of my favorite Lutens.

Posted
This is certainly a divisive fragrance, but I'm happy enough to be on my side of the divide because it means I'm not likely to meet another woman wearing it. I LOVE it: I love the opening blast that repulses so many, I love the unfolding of it, and I love its surprisingly whispery drydown. The beginning is wintergreen on me: Sweet, dark, icy. . Then the tuberose really unleashes its seductive glory, and I'm reliving tropical nights. Truly unique for a fragrance is that it's cold and hot at the same time.
Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido, 1998
Description:

Details:
DetailValue
Launched Date1998
GenderNeutral
PerfumerChristopher Sheldrake
AvailabilityIn Production
BySerge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido
Base Notes
Bottle Designer
Middle Notes
Top Notes
Models:
Model Name/TypeMPNEAN/UPC
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