Un Homme by Charles Jourdan, 1979

An excellent fragrance from 1979...a year after Azzaro Pour Homme came out. The scent pyramid, while scaled down from Azzaro PH, has some similarities - and the nose behind it is Francoise Caron. The beautiful sharp opening of bergamot and lavender is accompanied by a distinct anise note (not mentioned above) as well as tarragon. It is bright and has the quality of an excellent pastis or absinthe in aroma. This is, in my humble opinion, truly fantastic! It is a lifted opening that immediately gets your attention and warms wonderfully to the skin. One who knows Vintage scents will immediately realize just "how" good this is within the first few minutes - and the best is yet to come. For true lovers of Aromatic Fougeres...this is an excellent bottle and far surpasses many scents from the time period. The patchouli and cedar in the heart are brilliant along with a nice carnation and geranium. I, personally, do not detect jasmine although it is listed in other pyramids. There is nothing powdery about this either. Smooth, very smooth - an aura scent. One does not need to apply heavily, but definitely let it breathe on your pulse points. The projection is excellent and the longevity is very good indeed. The base is where the refined power and beauty really show what this scent can deliver. With the lavender and anise carrying through to the end of the heart, it transitions to a very smooth and rich leather and very distinct oakmoss. The aromatics here are superb - with a smooth high-quality sandalwood, tonka bean and musk entering as complimentary notes. But it is the leather and oakmoss that, for me, make this composition outstanding. The patchouli stays for a long time too with the anise, lavender, and base notes - creating a nice earthy green note that is sharp and articulate. A touch of warm amber is detectable about 90 minutes in...which adds even more dimension and longevity. Note separation here is simply incredible! It is astounding how good the quality of this fragrance is...quite possibly THE best aromatic fougere from the 70's & 80's that is relatively unknown (and definitely one of the best overall). I highly recommend it. I bought a lot of several bottles from a private seller who I consider a friend and shared one at cost with a good friend here on Basenotes. I will let them add their comments - but for anyone who has a deep love for Vintage Azzaro Pour Homme (and Aromatic Fougeres in general) would find this as a stand-out bottle. I most certainly do. No note is intrusive. Balance. Elegance. Great depth. Distinct and defined notes. Excellence. Very masculine with a macho vibe, but not overly so - this is in a word, suave. I cannot compare this to Vintage Oscar Pour Lui, except how one can separate the notes and smell the exceptional quality. To be worn with appropriate attire, confidence and a grin. This fragrance is another reason why Vintage Aromatic Fougeres with real oakmoss are so dear to me. They will never be made again as IFRA has banned oakmoss. My final score for a lost and nearly forgotten gem - 9+/10. Cheers.