Un Matin D'Orage by Annick Goutal, 2009
Rated #5097 in Fragrances
I bought this blind after reading several basenoter's recommendations, and I have to say that I was a little disappointed. It is a gardenia with elements of a woodsy oriental-almost-gourmand to my nose, with a heavy dose of humidity thrown in. Reminiscent of a garden in the southeast U.S. region that has just been graced by a rain shower; a heavy concoction of blooming magnolia trees, with their grand leaves, and something similar to figs (perhaps the ginger and shiso?) linger in the heavily moist air. Gardenia lovers may rejoice. I've since passed it along to my mother and she really enjoys it. Truthfully speaking though, it is very linear, has terrible silage, and only lasts for about an hour on my skin. I have read that several other newer Goutals have longevity issues as well. I can see how someone else might place this with Carnal Flower; however, I certainly would not recommend it as a substitute. It could perhaps be Carnal Flower's fourth cousin, removed, by marriage, and from a different country.
Whoa! This is my most disappointing purchase to date. And ironically, although I do occasionally buy "blind" based purely on reviews and / or lists of notes, I had actually sniffed this before I purchased. I own and love Songes and L'Heure Exquise, but these Goutals are a funny lot. The first time I tried Un Matin D'Orage in Selfridges I recoiled - I found it dry, cardboardy, opaque, unpleasantly bitter with no "body". The second time I tried it I was at Bergdorf Goodman's whilst on holiday in New York, and the lovely sales assistant suggested I try it as I like Songes and used to own Le Chevrefeuille. It smelled like the sweet floralcy of Le Jasmin combined with a muted version of the mouthwatering green of Ninfeo Mio, which I was very tempted by, but decided was just too sharp. I was quite excited and thought I could really enjoy Un Matin... So, on my return to the UK, having sniffed some lovely gardenias in Florida, I decided to buy a bottle as a reminder of my trip. What happened?! I find my original revulsion has returned! There is something I find repugnant about the opaque, broad bean green of this scent. Is it the shiso? Is there a significant difference between EDT (which I bought) and the EDP? Or am I just highly susceptible to a charming sales assistant?! Sorry, Un Matin. I don't think we're meant to be.
Un Matin d'Orage is one of those really feminine and dewy white floral scents. It reminds me a little of Kai, however this fragrance is much lighter and more green. This fragrance is most likely going to appeal to those that enjoyed Songes and Le Jasmin. The dominant gardenia note, while crisp in the opening, especially when alongside the citrus, becomes creamier and buttery towards the heart. The gardenia and the other floral accords in this composition, smell very naturalistic. One can imagine an exact replicate of this scent in a luscious, Spring garden. Un Matin d'Orage can sometimes be a little too one-dimensional, especially since it doesn't develop too well. The lasting power is also very fleeting which is another slight disappointment. In the drydown, it becomes increasingly soapy. Not to an extent that it's unlikable, however it does resemble a somewhat generic bar of sweet gardenia soap. While I do honestly like this fragrance, I would have aimed to improve it by making it longer lasting and perhaps more green.
I get pretty much of a strident green note in the opening it is not so much of a disagreeable note as it is lacking in finesse and subtlety. I am somewhat shocked at the intensity / commonness of the opening because it immediately strikes me as drugstore quality and even a bit vulgar not at all what expect from an Annick Goutal fragrance. The intensity of the sillage of the green note is reduced rather quickly, but my lack of appreciation for it remains. Un Matin d'Orage is linear and well boring. Im not sure how long this linearity lasts because I lose interest. Nowhere in the fragrance do I identify the florals oh, theyre there somewhere in the mix, but I am pretty much overwhelmed by green. When my interest is finally piqued toward the end of the fragrances movement, I get the feeling of being in the presence of the shiso note which gives it a foody tinge to the green in the last several minutes of the fragrance, it finally gets interesting, but it is too little too late.
This certainly seems to be a love-it-or-hate-it fragrance! Perhaps it's one of those that are prone to behaving very differently on different people's skin. Luckily for me l am one of those on whom it works beautifully. This is my absolute favourite of the Goutals that l've tried; a limpid, cool, perfect evocation of a flower garden after the rain. l can't really pick out individual notes here, but on my skin this behaves very much like Carnal Flower; fresh blooms with a touch of green from the leaves & stems, moist & clean, not dirty at all. My only complaint is that, like other Goutals, the longevity is somewhat lacking on me. But l do love this, & had l never smelled Carnal Flower, it would be on my wishlist.
This is the most realistic gardenia scent I have ever encountered. A dry, gentle lightly powdery green gardenia that instantly takes me to a greenhouse or steamy tropical setting. It is supposed to be about a Japanese garden after a storm. I wouldn't know about that. I don't think they are big on gardenias. Bonsai trees, evergreens & sculptural elements as I understand. Nevertheless, it is a gorgeous hothouse experience and I have never enjoyed a gardenia scent before this. In fact, I usually avoid them. They are always too synthetic, overbearing & sweet for me. If you love the real thing, heightened with some dry powder for longevity, this is quite lovely. Perfect for spring. A good wedding scent, too.
I want to like it, initially it smells crisp but the drydown leaves me with nothing but a sharp laundry detergent scent.
I feel compelled to step in to break the tie on this one. While not as offensive to my nose as it seems to have been to UBU, what starts out as a faintly pleasant floral deteriorates into an irritating ozone-tinged sweet floral after about 15 minutes. I get the concept: the thirsty earth soaking up the welcome rain, the scent of gardenias mingling with steamy soil, but there are no surprises in this fragrance. My nose is weary after smelling it for 30 minutes.
Disappointed. Started off bright but after 20 minutes my eyes began to water and I kept smelling body odor. Couldn't stand it - big-time B.O.
Un Matin D'Orage by Annick Goutal, 2009
By: Annick Goutal
|Top Notes||Sicilian Lemon, Ginger, Shisho|
|Middle Notes||Jasmine, Magnolia, Champaca|
|Base Notes||Nutmeg, Ylang-Ylang|
Start a guide on Un Matin D'Orage by Annick Goutal, 2009!