Vanilia by L'Artisan Parfumeur, 1978

the summer is behind us, and i agree those who claim this is perfect summer scent are wrong!, i bought it in the winter and its better in winter times, now that is getting colder i like it better! this is one of rare scents that i can not fully appreciate, the same as darvant, i am not vanilla fan, although i do recognise great parfume, becasue this vanilla does not smell like the one you eat, it smells woody, refined, like a parfume!! but too cold, and metalic for me, plus i dont like this hint of bannana in it...so each time i want to put it on i must talk myself into it :) doesnt go spontaneous with me :) and i am afraid of my reaction after several hours with it....sometimes i need to go wash it off, i get headache or want to vomit :(( EDIT: i waited 8 months to write this review and just about when i wrote it there happened a 180 degrees change in my olfactory impression of this scent :) extra beautiful sandalwood-vanilla combination with yilang yilang that was causing that metalic feel to me, now i wish it was stronger!! PdN vanila-tonka scent helped me to detect how this vanila is so perfect!....its vanilla but that doesnt make you a walking cake or coffee shop :)-----i miss this in shalimar its more like hay less vanilla

Vanilia was a part of the inaugural bunch of fragrances released by Jean-François Laporte in 1978 to kick-start the LArtisan Parfumeur range. It has now been inexplicably booted to the curb, despite it supposedly selling well when available. Thus, below youll find more of a eulogy than a review. Despite the simplicity of its name and materials which amount to candy floss and ylang ylang Vanilia weaves remarkably between nuances of fun-loving banana creaminess, the alarming tang of aluminium-foil, and a burnished, mahogany-coloured, caramel note. Despite its coquettish eyeing-up of the gourmand, the closest it gets to the dessert trolley is with a raised eyebrow in the direction of clove and nutmeg. If it were run through the Michael Edwards Fragrance Mill, Vanilia would likely end up a Soft Oriental, which is to say lighter, spicier, and more svelte than the classic, purring Oriental. Vanilia also happens to be one of the most synaesthetic fragrances there ever was, from baritone custard to chewy incense and alchemical curiosities beyond. LArtisans current vanilla scent Bertrand Duchaufours Vanille Absolument is not an apt, or even worthy, comparison. Instead, look to Gorilla Perfumes Vanillary, which uses more jasmine than ylang ylang, and is just as involving and grown-up. And you can ignore the chatter about summer trashiness; this one shines brightest in the chillier months.

L'Artisan Vanilia and Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Fleur de Comores Comparison Review

Vanilia Notes: ylang ylang, vanilla bean, amber and sandalwood (from www.nstperfume.com, NowSmellThis)
Fleur de Comores Notes: blackcurrant, passionfruit, leafy green, vanilla, orange blossom, jasmine, ambegris, vetiver, musk (from luckyscent.com)

I have been wanting to compare L'Artisan Vanilia and MPG Fleur de Comores ever since I read in the guide that they were both composed by the same perfumer (Laporte), FdC being a sort of "Vanilia II" which was created after Laporte left L'Artisan.

Vanilia starts sweet, woody and balsamic. As the top notes burn off, a hint of incense lends a smoky metallic tang and the fragrance becomes increasingly powdery. Vanilia stays in this stage for quite a long time, its subtlety keeping it from becoming cloying despite being linear. The drydown is a pretty vanilla-prominent amber with a little tonka bite and smoky woods.

Fleur de Comores' opening notes are massively boozy, with fermented overripe passionfruit (which seems to be a blend of apricot and cherry not unlike "Hawaiin Punch" fruit drink) and sharp, almost urinous blackcurrant bud. FdC develops more slowly than Vanilia, but eventually starts to turn more powdery as well, with indolic florals coming forward as the fruity top accord fades. The florals eventually settle on a base of woody, smoky green (vetiver).

Overall, I find FdC to be slightly more sophisticated and complex, and I find Vanilia more charming and easy to wear. In my book, this is one contest where simplicity wins--Vanilia is one of those fragrances that is so pleasant that it is adaptable to many occasions and age groups.

I suppose I can understand a kinship between these two. Both are what I would classify as relaxing, unpretentious fragrances evocative of summer holidays. However, looking at the bigger picture, if I were to name a successor to Vanilia, it would probably be L'Artisan Havana Vanille which takes the same idea more towards woods, resins and raisiny tobacco. Regardless, both Vanilia and FdC are worthy of sampling.