This is my soul's scent in the way that Arvo Pärt plays my soul's music. Here I am laid bare: spartan resilient resins, warm generous vanilla, spare beautiful florals flying out beyond prettiness. This vibrates celestial, best viewed from the perspective of 10,000 feet. Whereas I remain endlessly curious for other scents, they are just that: other. They beckon with the intrigue of difference, the enchantments of conversation, the beguilements of beauty - the jar, seduction and stimulus of traits not native. Here is my essence, my effortless source. The silence between my heartbeats.
Vol De Nuit by Guerlain, 1933
Rated #271 in Fragrances
*Review For Vol De Nuit Parfum It opened with Bergamot, I got a faint lemon note and Orange Blossom was prominent.The Galbadnum got lost in the other opening notes. Within fifteen minutes it had quickly moved into an Aldehyde accord for a a few minutes at best and then a burst of Iris came forward along with a faint vanilla note as if it were waiting to pounce. After thirty minutes the iris was still wafting around and the vanilla had pounced in, but not too strong. Three other notes started to make a strong presence, the orris root, musk and sandalwood were becoming strong to my nose. The moss got lost in the strength of the other top notes or my immature nose missed it. As more time passed and the orris root, musk. spices and sandalwood with just a hint of vanilla were the stars of the show and the sillage was still pretty high. For about 3 hours and slowly dropping off from there, the parfum remained a linear orris root, musk and sandalwood. After 3 hours the longevity and sillage had given in and Vol De Nuit Parfum was a skin scent and becoming a beautiful memory for me. Vol De Nuit in any concentration could very well be unisex because it's not a floral monster or overly sweet and reminds me somewhat of Shalimar which I think is very sensuous on a man. Vol De Nuit Parfum is one of those fragrances that, for me, are very alluring, sexual and I would highly recommend it!
I love so many Guerlain scents (Mitsouko, L Heure Bleue, Shalimar) but this one is the exact smell of a grandmother going out for dinner (died black hair, high heels, and red lipstick) I had forgotten all about the smell until I smelled this scent. It took me back to my childhood and a room full of great aunts. For the trip back in time I am thankful but I can't imagine who would want to smell like this. Usually I love scents that have stood the test of time. But this was not one of them. I wrote the first paragraph a couple years ago based upon a eau de toilette spray. None of that applies to the perfume. The perfume is subtle and deep. It is everything great that the reviewers that like the scent say about it. I have never experienced such a great difference between the different versions of a scent before. I love this perfume and hate the bitterness of the sprays.
Vol de Nuit is one of my favorite Guerlains, A green chypre that has a green bitter and animalic oppening that evolves to a powdery floral with lots of iris and sandalwood and then to the classic guerlain base just Glorious! It evokes to me lost hollywood glamour from the 30´s and 40´s, rich women wearing furs and diamonds to go to dinner parties and al sort of stravagant luxury. My favorite bottle is a vintage edt (late 80´s) that i got on ebay. You can smell the difference right away. Its much more animalic (i guess because of animal muscs), greener and mossier and I also think it used to have real sandalwood cause the scent blends with my skin. The new edt is much more soft and plush, I get more aldehydes its cleaner, but its still wonderful. If you cant find a vintage edt go with the new parfum. As for me, I wear some drops of the new parfum and a couple of sprays of the viintage edt. It cant get better than this! (actualy it could if I find a good vintage parfum bottle!)
Is my mind playing tricks, or did so many women really wear this when I was a child? On first spraying, this perfume greeted me like a long lost friend instant familiarity and comfort. Regardless of the (un)reliability of olfactory memories, this is my experience of Vol de Nuit. It beams out of the bottle with such glorious springlike radiance, everything transparent, sunlit and shimmering, resistance is futile. Even though this phase is fleeting, with the solid Guerlain base of sandalwood and vanilla becoming noticeable very early (this time with a pinch of the smoothest spices in the mix), the perfume doesnt lose its light character, with glimpses of narcissus peeking out now and then. Given, projection is subtler than Guerlain heavy-hitters, but its still worth every penny when it sets the senses waltzing the way it does (this from someone who couldnt waltz to save his life). Absolutely the touchstone of perfection and of joy.
From the start, this is clearly a very retro fragrance, classically dense with florals, bitter galbanum & animalic notes. Over the first hour, the florals become smoother & creamier, with hints of the forest floor beneath. ln the heart, salty moss & ambergris come out to join the flowers, & this is the part l most enjoy. After this, l begin to get the same "doughy" note that l disliked in Dans Tes Bras, & this persists in linear fashion, fading out around eight hours after application. This certainly a very serious & grown-up perfume, & l must admit that it doesn't really feel like "me". l sense, however, that this is one of those that may reveal different aspects of it's character on subsequent wearings, & so l will revisit it at some point.
Whether you like Guerlain's style or not, this brand had, have and will unquestionably always have an incredible relevance in perfume history. Guerlain is, no more and no less, french perfumery personified and Vol De Nuit is one of the highest examples of all this. I could go through the usual notes explaination but, in front of such a beauty, it would be an oversimplification. Seriously. Everything has been already said, analyzied and dissected. Comparisons bewteen different diluitions, batches and reformulations but, as a matter of fact, this is one of the best 100 fragrances of all times. This is perfumery. Open your wallets. A masterpiece.
Vol de Nuit is a monument in perfumery and there is a 'mystery' around this creation. In fact, it is not an 'easy' fragrance and one reason may well be that I perceive it both as chypré style and 'powdery oriental' (as jdt put it in this review) at the same time. This interplay and phases of different emphasis really is something I needed time to interpret for myself. I also think Vol de Nuit is a fragrance that is very prone to 'distraction' if there is still another fragrance faintly lingering on your skin. I have found the subtle interplay and transmission of chypre and oriental can be disturbed and Vol de Nuit sort of falls apart in nothing. What you want to experience when wearing the extrait (which is IMHO the only way to experience Vol de Nuit due to longevity and the perfumes' subtle facets) is exactly what sean-dt described in his beautiful review, when he states that a 'unbelievably' delicate aura seems to appear out of nowhere just when the perfume seems to fade.' Experiencing this is truly the magic of Vol de Nuit! It will always have a very very special place in my heart. It, both, comforts me and complements me by creating an aura of mystery and allure. At least, that's what I like to think... ADDITIONAL comparison vintage vs. current extrait (June 2011): The overall mood I think is more dramatic in the vintage, whereas the new is simply beautiful, if that makes sense. I also think the vintage jus demands your emotional involvement, whereas the new is again breathtakingly beautiful AND contemplative. The vintage has a spiciness that reminds me of the Parfum de Toilette of LHeure Bleue. It is very French, very Guerlain and vintage (although mine here is only 10 years old, but that ensures the floral notes are well preserved as some claim Vol de Nuit does not age well.) smelling. I think that the vintage extrait of Vol de Nuit is even more the quintessential Guerlain to me than LHeure Bleue. The new jus has a more pronounced floral heart (I like to think it is the jonquil absolute as core accord) with its edges rounded off with the help of the Guerlain vanilla and benzoin (?), which I absolutely adore. It is less spicy, less complex or is it complicated ?, less powdery and more fragile (I have found that it can sort of collapse into nothing on you when distracted by your skin chemistry e.g. faint remainders of former fragrance) than the vintage. It also does not produce as much sillage as the vintage and is more 'unisex' to my perception making it clearly an amber-emphasized fragrance, in particular in the drydown. In the end, I think the new Vol de Nuit is a sort of "modernization" and I like it at least as much as the vintage. It is the best reformulation I can think of, but I could see the loss others might feel compared to the vintage, too.
Eau de Toilette Vol de Nuit is a gorgeous, gorgeous green-floral with a distinct "brown" or "autumnal" quality to it, as described by sean-dt. It is never too strong or overbearing; simply smooth and comforting, like a sunset, or.... a night flight. :) Like Mitsouko, I find Vol de Nuit to be beyond time and gender, but still smelling damn good.
The Bottle is beautiful the artistry and craft they painstakingly created with it's Topaz cut and ruched glass cut with gold insignia inside a circle with gold metal Vol de Nuit is the hight of Art Deco and liquid from the fragrance is pure gold. Channels the playboy aviator & eccentric billionaire Howard Hughes with his planes and women of course women! numerous of them well know actresses you can think of had an affair the most well know was Katharine Hepburn Jean Harlow and Ava Gardner. Squiring jean Harlow on the red carpet of the Lavish Permire of Hells Angels beautifully reenacted by the Pop Singer Gwen Stefani from the Martin Scorsese's The Aviator. Or Walking though a Brown Smokey Quarz art deco nightclub where the smoke stains the mirrors and the women whearing skin tight Golden Dresses And Men with italian Suits And the feeling of sex Is every where and the sound of a single Saxophone Playing though the night. the scent which i agree with Kastehelmi it does fly off your skin there is no silage strength and if you compared to shalimar it is obvious that Vol de nuit is an icy sphinx not letting know her life nocturne introverted Elegance compared to shalimar with allmost an more of a masculine yang presence aggressive and yet like Vol refined.
Vol De Nuit by Guerlain, 1933
|Top Notes||Hesperedic Notes, Narcissus|
|Middle Notes||Galbanum, Oakmoss, Green notes|
|Base Notes||Wood, Iris, Vanilla, Spices|
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