Volutes by Diptyque, 2012

Writing about the EdP here, but it hardly matters, as I am out of my depths with some of the stated notes. The opening is a honey and hay affair with an intriguing note of freshly peeled tangerine, which briefly adds a cool edge, before disappearing completely. I gather this is supposed to be spicier and less powdery than the EdT. I dont have the EdT (am interested enough to try at some point) but would never call this spicy. But there are spices, e.g., a warm underlayment of saffron. Less powdery this formulation may be, but there is a pronounced, non-dominant sense of iris-y powder. All I really want to say is this is really wonderful stuff. Very warm, comforting, and comfortable. Ive not smelled the Egyptian cigarettes that inspired this fragrance, but this is pretty evocative of the tobacco fantasy.

EDP: basically a cross between Chergui and Idole. Sorry if you expected more. In fact it is also not ten yards from Antaeus 2 in that rich vein. Having grown up playing in a tobacco barn and having it harvested all around me, and having a dad who chewed, I think this "tobacco" idea exists principally as a fragrance fantasy. This istuff is really sweet, with that lingering quality you get from dark honey, and this is not entirely pleasant and wearable. Oh it is interesting, even captivating if you've never smelled it. But to live one's days with this on the wrist would eventually annoy me. It is lightened by the "spicy" notes, and they are appreciated, but it would open up a different audience if a bit drier. I've not tested the EDT, and perhaps this was the one closer to my taste. No new ground broken here, and I will be more skeptical of new perfume hype in the future. I tried it because I love Diptyque's Eau Lente so much (still in a class by itself, as it resolves the sweet problem with eventual soapiness).

Top: iris flower, honey, tobacco, dried fruits Mid: pink pepper, black pepper, saffron, hay, immortelle Base: opoponax, myrhh, styrax, benzoin Very well done for its style. Quite sweet and perfumey. The silvery iris note is elegant. Honey and tobacco give it a rich, substantial feel. Some of the sweetness burns off, but the richness persists. Languid hay notes give it a very relaxed feel. All the sweet biscuity and vanilla notes don't appeal to me, but I'm sure that many would like this.

A velvety-smooth tobacco scent, with a backdrop of chalky iris, honey, vanilla and amber. Leather is not listed but there is an impression of suede, close-up at least. I can see why Diptyque chose an Autumn release for this beauty; it has a cosy warmth which is very appealing in cool weather. Volutes is in the same ballpark as Acqua di Cuba, Tobacco Vanille & Chergui but is much lighter, more refined; dare I say more wearable; in fact it wouldn't be out of place in Chanel's line-up. Sillage is within the sociable category; it's no sillage monster but nor is it a skin scent. Side-by-side comparison between the EdP and EdT reveals a few, somewhat slight, differences; the EdP is a degree sweeter and the tobacco more subdued, or maybe I should say subsumed. Longevity is similar for both (about 8 hours). It lasts well on cloth; I first wore the EdT for an evening out; waking up the following day, I was greeted by a wonderful smoky iris scent on the pillowcase (I habitually spray the nape of the neck). Unisex; the drier EdT (which I prefer) is a shade more masculine. Anyway, it's the only Diptyque I liked enough to buy, so I highly recommend it!