Celery seed, and more celery seed... with a hint of fresh celery. Only in the tail end of the drydown do some other spices bloom through. A unique scent no doubt, and not a bad one, but not at all what I was hoping for. IMO Yatagan is not deserving of it's reputation as an uber-masculine powerhouse.
Yatagan by Caron, 1976
The review: Awesome in the opening. You receive a sour kick of herbs, pine resin and eucalyptus. Because its art, not bare nature, the beauty comes from the way the parts are put together. These aromas come knotted with lavender and patchouli. You get slight sweetness mixed with the bitterness. Middle notes are milder: A bunch of coriander assorted with wormwood, parsley and other herbs, like sage and caraway as Luca Turin says, and, yes, celery (celery belongs to the same family of coriander and caraway and has full rights to inspire love and poetry, as roses, daisies, carrots and broth do). The syrup grows a little in the drydown, from musk and sandalwood, unremarkable, even shy, with hints of powder and bubble gum Allegedly, this fragrance used to be bold all the way, but nothing lasts... I would do it again but just with the vintage. This is now safe after minutes, suitable for any occasion or stepfather: it is water, not liquor. The software is dazzling but the hardware is unsupportive: the juice is fatless and synthetic, without quality. The metaphor: It remembers me a cool morning in the forest, in my childhood. All was new for me and I touched, twisted, scratched, smashed, crushed, pulled up and tore every branch, root, flower, bud, sprout and leave that called my attention, most from the ground. Then my hands got sticky and fragrant. That smell, sticky also in my recall, is now Yatagan. The anecdote: At gym, after workout and shower, I was feeling great. That´s why, I suppose, I was heavy with the trigger over my chest, arms and back of the neck. I was facing the mirror and fancying about the putative changes that workout had brought to the naked torso. Then a guy, who passed behind me, returned and, with worry face, said to me: Do you smell? Someone was smoking pot here! Food for reflections: How was the development of this outstanding artist called Vincent Marcello? Who was the great designer of the segmented sword in the vintage flask? What happened to a brand with such a lofty past as Caron (a genuine past, not a made-up one) which now is so far and beneath from the seventh heaven of the top-notch? The method: As a bullfighter put it long time ago: disposition, courage and fear. I wear the fragrance on daily basis, until the last drop from the 125 ml flask, for understanding and enjoying purposes. I read reviews and threads; researched at produce counters and so on... Furthermore, I did a lot of introspection.
The first aspect of Yatagan that is very noticeable is lavender. Soft, mild slightly green lavender floats and charms all through this fairy tale dark woodland scent. The lavender opening permeates the entire fragrance and is the saving grace of Yatagan for otherwise it is all a pitch darkness of woody conflict of deep forest smokey balsam and woods with bitter green tannins, dried leaves. The lavender keeps all these smokey, dark greens and leathery resinous bits at arms length from each other like a referee in a back woods brawl between animals of the night. The mix manages to stay just on the sane side of wearableness. I like Yatagan, it is one of my favorites dark woods fragrances. I think it is a steal for the price it can be had for nowadays online, and it is the equal or superior of many other wooded fragrances that sell for 3 - 6 times the price. Yatagan has had several bottle label changes and the formula has been adjusted and is tamer than the earlier formula which focused on the bitter artemsia vs. tart juniper and my "new" three year old bottle is very balanced, more civilized than the earlier versions, which I could not wear due to their sharpness. That earlier bottle which I got ten years ago was given away to a Basenotes swapping friend - TVLampboy - who found a home for it in a give away contest years earlier in the bnotes forum. Folks were just looking for reasons to get rid of those old mankiller bottles of Yatagan, but I have come back to the Yatagan beast only to find that I thoroughly enjoy wearing it now . It is tamer and very wearable. Its dryness gives it usability through the summer and the bold characters makes it even more excellent during the biting cold weather. In fact the weather changes the perception of the fragrance where in bitter cold I notice the bitter green of the juniper and artemsia while in warm weather the smoke of the styrax is more to fore. The only remotely similar fragrance to Yatagan is the thoroughly modern Kinski by Goeza Schoen which followed the Yatagan formula closely, but without the lavender as a buffer. Yatagan has easily earned the designation of "classic" !
Great stuff. If you love natural materials, this is for you. Go crush a eucalpytus leaf and a few sprigs of rosemary in your palm and you have the opening notes of Yatagan. This is rather bold and uncompromising (meaning there are those who will not like the opening). It eventually ends up as a burnt woody-leaning fougere, fairly dry. It shares some common ground with both Azzaro and Giorgio Red for men in that it is a complex fougere. I cannot commit to this as an every day scent as it is demanding, but it is a terrific alternative to have in your arsenal when you're feeling somewhat misanthropic but sexy too!
Yatagan where've you been all my life? This a fantastic potpourri of tart artemisia, sharp lavender, old school (& very dry patchouli) over a bizarrely sweet-ish leather. This is neither harsh, nor dated. It slowly releases its mystery over many hours and comes to a very satisfying denouement in a pine-amber-leather haze. Really great, and an absolute bargain (esp compared to some of the Amouages & Malles I have....). No doubt: a masterpiece!
Yowza. I hate to rate this as 'neutral' because my opinions on the matter are anything but. I love the smell--piney, woodsy, a bit leathery and a bit smokey. When I wear it, I definitely feel old-school and potent--a lumberjack walking into a 1970s disco fresh from chopping down a tree. BUT....It's the only fragrance I own that tends to give me a bit of a headache. So I either have to give it up or wear a lot less. Maybe half a spritz is the magic amount. At that rate, the huge bottle will last me two lifetimes!
Smells like an old, cheap, poorly made fragrance. This fragrance seems like it was probably specific to the period it was made, and I don't think it is suitable for wear in any situation or season. Smells spicy, sweet, and old.
The Lavender in the top note combines with Artemisia and Wormwood - one of the most interesting openings I can imagine. The drydown with it's vetiver and patchouli give it a tartness that is never unduly sharp, and with its touch if added wood has a certain richness and substance. Eventually the great leather base predominates in a more traditional fashion. Overall a very convincing experience, with good silage and projection and a very good longevity of over five hours on my skin.
Wow! How do I describe this sample from The Perfumed Court (now own Yatagan)? Initial impression: herbal, including basil & something else @ 5" in, I'm picking up another vegetal note- a clean celery (IFF's Vertofix?). No lavender yet, & no pine yet at least not of the resinous, evergreen, unless, just a whiff of dried, seasoned pine lumber. @ 10" Perhaps there's also a hint of the celery morphing into wormwood or vetiver. I also get memories of Hugo Spirit with a touch of Ungaro pour L'Homme III. Is there an unlisted cumin or curry note? @ 20" I'm picking up additonal notes that remind me of the scent of the bark on the Live Oak in my back yard @ 30" the same @ 60" no change @ 2 hrs no change except projection fading I don't get it- after multiple tests over several days, it's another nice Caron. What's there to say "Yuck" to? 2011 update: while it's not in my top 5, I did like it well enough to buy it, & wear occassionally.
I love when masculine scents have complexity of Apres l ondee, this one is like masculine version of it :deep green forest, aromatic- herbaceous, placed on woody and smoky base. Perfect blend of notes, 3dimensional, with shades of green and very natural smelling, nothing that would disturb me. it reminded me of Patricia de Nicolai Pour homme, but that one compares to this one as teenager compares to grownup man. Perfect masculine scent with depth and complexity
Yatagan by Caron, 1976
|Top Notes||Lavender, Wormwood, Petitgrain, Artemisia|
|Middle Notes||Geranium, Pine Needles, Vetiver, Patchouli|
|Base Notes||Leather, Castoreum, Styrax|
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