Yohji Homme by Yohji Yamamoto, 1999

*This is a review of the original release. Yohji Homme opens with a deliciously well-blended combination of sharp bergamot citrus, lavender and the beginnings of a slowly growing licorice-like anise and slightly sweet rum tandem that at this stage takes a back seat to the citrus. In the early heart the anise and rum take the fore as the citrus all but disappears quickly, while joined by faint hints of carnation and cinnamon. During the superbly transitioned dry-down, the anise and rum finally dissipate, revealing a leather spiked powdery cocoa-like coffee base with just the faintest additional sweetness from supporting tonka bean. Projection and longevity are both very good. The original discontinued release of Yohji Homme is a truly fabulous gourmand. The rum note mixes with an extremely well-implemented anise note perfectly, coming off as absolutely delectable. Transitions throughout the scent's development are deftly handled to the point of the scent morphing from its boozy heart into its leather and powdery coffee base seemingly out of nowhere. This kind of structure can only be achieved by a master nose at the top of their game and I suspect as others have mentioned in other reviews that Jean Kerleo who had just left Jean Patou before its release was indeed responsible for a good part of Yohji Homme's core structure... That said, credit needs to be given to Jean-Michel Duriez who officially is the nose behind this reference gourmand. As an aside, Yohji Homme is supposed to be re-released shortly after the posting of this review, and I confess I am eager to see if it is left relatively well-intact. If indeed it is, gourmand fans (and fragrance lovers in general) can certainly rejoice, as in its original form at least, Yohji Homme is just about as good as it gets in the gourmand genre, earning a strong 4 to 4.5 stars out of 5.

Oh my gosh this smells good. Unbelievable! If you want a play-by-play, please refer to pluran's excellent review. He accurately describes Yohji Homme's gentle balancing act between dry fougere, spiced rum essence, and gourmand notes of coffee and anise (sweetened primarily by the rum note). I have nothing to add to his dissection. Here are my personal observations: I am one of those people for whom gourmand fragrances are often too sweet and cloying, so I really appreciate a gourmand with a groomed character and some restraint. Even this one toes the line, but stays just on the safe side by implementing that outstanding fougere accord, which lends just enough class to balance out any potential crass. Those who like their gourmands to be bombastic, like A*Men or Rochas Man, will be disappointed. As others have noted, Yohji really doesn't compare to them, and I hesitate to strictly define it as a gourmand. This is a gentleman's scent which happens to dabble with edible notes. Projection is low but longevity is high for me. The base really seems to react to body heat, so I recommend wearing it under the shirt, on the chest, in warm weather. This creates a subtle, warm, sexy glow. Enchanting.

A quiet, conservative take on gourmand notes expertly placed into a woody context. I agree with what Live Jazz has to say about this one. Most often, gourmand fragrances are too sweet or too bombastic for me to wear regularly. Every once in a while I might get in the nostalgic mood required for me to wear A*Men, but other than that, it's a genre I mostly avoid. Body Kouros, Rochas Man, Pi, etc. are just too cutesy, too sugar-and-spice for me to wear as personal fragrances. Yohji Homme occupies its own space in my mind. It's drier, woodier, and not nearly as sweet or loud as the fragrances others have mentioned in this thread. In fact, it's an altogether different take on gourmand notes and can't really be compared to them. The coffee and anise notes are fantastic - dry enough to be almost herbal, but rich enough to subtly change throughout the duration. The rum adds a subtle, natural sweetness. The base, to my nose, is mainly a dry patchouli with the coffee (almost cocoa at times) and an herbal tinge. If anything, it reminds me a bit of Lutens Borneo at the far end of its life span. Longevity is good, but it stays close, which to me is a god thing with this sort of fragrance. A very big thumbs-up. I'm glad I grabbed a bottle while I could.

Yohji Homme is an amazing balancing act between the comfort of light and easy abstract gourmand notes and the silvery soapy effervescence of an energetic fougere (a mostly masculine genre based on the interplay between an accord of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss). The immediate vetiver-coffee-rum accord with some fresh bergamot and lavender is still one of the best things Ive ever smelled, but its only one of many parts of the overall fragrance. Its a serious fragrance thats much darker, pricklier and more mono-maniacally focused than first impressions might lead you to believe. The accords are rich, natural and complex on a level with Patou pour Homme, and while they feel comfortable and smell outrageously good, the fragrance wears relatively deep, dark, grey and aloof like any good fougere should. Its an oriental x fougere hybrid, but references to gourmand are misleading in many ways, primarily due to the fact that there are no heavy oriental basenotes in Yohji Homme. Once youre into the genius middle whose spices and florals are such a paragon of blending, the fragrance also begins to smell like the anisic-salty accord of Rive Gauche pour Homme. It then morphs into a woody-earthy-leathery base of natural woods, oakmoss, vetiver, light amber, the fleshy warmth of castoreum, and soft leather; all of it as plush, smooth and compelling as the most perfect feminine bottom after a day at the spa. Its rich and durable but wears easy enough to take you almost anywhere. The longevity is good for seven or eight hours, never loud or bothersome, and with sillage radiating at an appropriate masculine range of no more than three or four feet. There are few to compare with its quality, and there arent many better examples of masterful blending. It was years in the making by the great Jean Kerleo (Patou pour Homme), although the official perfumer is listed as Jean-Michel Duriez due the departure of Kerleo before the fragrance launched. Duriez definitely contibuted a major accord to the fragrance, but it was mosly designed by Kerleo. And while its a different structure than Patou pour Homme, Yohjis heart reveals a big whiff of Patou pour Hommes most compelling accord. It shares some congruence with a couple of the fragrances with which its often compared to, but I dont find any major similarities in the overall quality or ultimate feel of any of them. Yohji Homme is a great one, and here's a big, slick thumb coming at you for this luxurious masterstroke fragrance.

pluran's review of Yohji Homme fragrance is definitely the best assessment on this page; this is a totally unique and unbelievably good fragrance. Yohji Homme is a Crème brûlée in a leather jacket. No, I'm not talking about smelling any leather notes. I am not generally a fan of sweet scents or "gourmands", however I find Yohji Homme to be a sweet scent for men done right. Slightly sweetened warm booze, cinnamon, licorice, anise, and vanilla create an absolutely intoxicating aura that glows off the skin. Almost like a Crème brûlée, as I had stated before. Never too sweet, just smooth all around. Such a comforting, wonderful scent. I actually like that this creates a sort of pleasant aura of scent closer to my skin rather than having monster sillage, as it fits this scent well. It is never cloying, and it lasts a long time. Quite a shame it has been discontinued, but if you can find a bottle for a good price - get it. The bottles are tall and long-lasting, and the scent lasts and smells amazing as well. Yohji Homme is my favorite sweet scent by far, and one of my favorite fragrances, period. However, I can relate to Bigsly - I must be in the mood for this one to wear it, but when I do, it is spectacular.

Edit 2011 : When I made that original and awfully clumsy review back in 2006, I was just starting out this hobby, and I probably wrote it after very initial impression after I had received my blind bought bottle. I think I was still quite much in a learning process with fragrances in general, but in this case, particularly considering Yohji Homme. To cut the long story short, YH is outstandingly beautiful and well made fragrance. It's perfectly harmonious blend of licorice, woods and hint of spice, all placed upon wonderfully refined and emerald green fougere accord. And what was/is all the talk about poor longevity?? Yohji Homme lasts a time (at least 6 hours strong) that is absolutely satisfying to me. Come to think of it, I think I haven't smelled any more brilliant discontinued fragrance. 2006 : I don`t know what to think about this. It is very confusing to me that most of the people consider this as an Gourmand scent. I don`t think so at all: To me this is subtle, refined Fougere scent. It has some tasty notes in it, and it has some edible notes mixed...But still; This is just sweet, aromatic Fougere. Not a Gourmand scent, imo. Starts out like toned down sugared Jazz, continues to create this refined, smooth woody scent. Just a slight touch of anis, coffee and soft leather. Rhum?? I really don`t think so. I don`t honesty undertand people who compare this to Lolita Lempicka, A*Men or Rochas Man...I really don`t understand that. Still, a wonderful and unique Fougere blend - very refined and classy aroma. But but but...Yes, it`s a bit too weak. Sensual for sure, but still too weak. It doesn`t last long either, and I suppose these problems with strenght/longevity could be part of the discontinuance. I wouldn`t wonder. Great scent, made with high talent, but...