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  1. Ideas for Natural Materials that Mimic or Replace Synthetics?

    I recently got a contract for making some natural perfumes. I am looking for some ideas on naturals that can potentially replace common synthetics.

    Atlas Cedarwood for Iso E Super?
    Jasmine...
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    This is turning out to be an interesting conversation! Thanks for all of the comments you guys! It's fun to try and reconstruct these relics!
    I really like farenheit, or the aspects I've made from...
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Yeah they aren't exact. You have to do some research to get a more accurate end result. I ended up adding the (25% iso e super right?) Into some of the general constituents listed. Im pretty happy...
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    I just meant that some other mainstream formulas are on that other site. Not perfuwoman's. I should of been more clear.

    I posted the best ones I could fine. All the others just seemed to be simple...
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    *Edit* Some other formula ideas similar to mainstream scents can be found on this website, maybe we should save this incase anything happens to it too!
    http://viness.narod.ru/parfumes_recept.htm
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Sauvage 1966

    Hedione ** * * *.20

    Opoponax oil* * ** .002 * *
    Opoponax-Extract * * ** .05 * *


    * Olibanum oil * * * ** .02 * *
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Farenheit

    .25 Lavender oil
    .24 Mandarin oil
    .21 Hawthorn base
    .35 Nutmeg oil
    .21 Cedar wood oil
    .16 Bergamot oil
    .19 Chamomile
    .15 lemon oil
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Cool Water

    Ambroxan 10% .02g
    2. Ambrettolide 10% .2
    3. Norlimbanol 10% .2
    4. Hindenol .12
    5. Lavandin oil .14
    Linalyl acetate .38
    6. Bornylacetate l- .08
    7. Hedione .2
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    L'Air du Temps Nina yahoo perfumemaking
    6,7 Benzyl salicylate (иланг-иланг)1,5 Eugenol (clove-гвоздика пряность)0,5 Methyl Diantilis (carnation-гвозика цветок)1,0 Ylang Ylang4,4 Methyl Ionone...
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Musky:
    29.3 GALAXOLIDE cas 1222-05-5 Musky, floral
    6.0 EXALTOLIDE cas 106-02-5 Musky, very high quality, natural
    5.7 ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE cas 105-95-3 Musky, ambrette*
    Floral, light :
    26.4...
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Tom ford white patchouli
    Formulation fragrance oil type*
    .6 Iso-E-Super
    .09 Alpha -Guaiene
    0.03 Bacdanol
    0.02 Sandalore
    0.012 Polysantol
    0.064 Javanol
    .26 Galaxolide
    0.016 Cashmeran
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    *C116722hromatographic analysis of*Coco*Mademoiselle*Chanel*perfume*:


    n / a*RT*%*of*total*Fragrance*CAS
    1.*6.358 0.104%**alpha-Pinenecas 80-56-8
    2. 7.821*** 0.09%**beta-Pinene*cas 127-91-3 95...
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Already tried it man! I happened to scavenge a few which I will post now. But I was unable to find a few others, maybe a directive from the site moderators, to not cashe content.
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Someone posted it! Awesome! Here it is, but feel free to post others if you've got them. I'll add the ones I have later.

    Hedione 30%
    Galaxolide 10-20% muscone
    Linalyl acetate 5-10%
    Linalool...
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    Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Perfuwoman on livejournal.com used to have a bunch of formulas posted for free, now they are for cash only! Do you guys happen to have any of these saved? I happened to track down a few, I would be...
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    Re: Recreating Dior Eau Savauge...

    Im talking about the new version. Someone posted a gcms of it and aventus a while ago let's see if I can find it...
    110173
  17. Re: "Mulacro" Essential Oil - Arcadi Boix Camps

    Haha that's pretty hilarious! You might be right too. I can tell you that my pee smells like tuna after drinking black coffee and like popcorn after drinking coffee with sugar and cream. I'm not sure...
  18. Re: "Mulacro" Essential Oil - Arcadi Boix Camps

    Nice work you guys, yeah Buddhawood seems very plausible. I haven't taken the time to research it but yeah I'd say its very likely. Thanks again Thea
  19. "Mulacro" Essential Oil - Arcadi Boix Camps

    You any of you guys have an idea of what this material might be? Sounds quite interesting, I heard maybe it's from Brazil, this is a native term for it.
    ...
  20. Re: Remaking Gucci Gorgeous Gardenia for My Wife...

    Thanks brother! Looks like I was pretty close on this one. Ill keep at it, it must be the helvetolide that Im missing, I was questioning if that was the one, if only I had it!
  21. Remaking Gucci Gorgeous Gardenia for My Wife...

    Any advice? Im pretty close but Im having trouble recreating the soft powdery note in the middle/base. Im thinking maybe its ultravanil? Ive got tons of vanillin and some veratryl aldehyde in, and a...
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    Re: Phenylacetic Acid

    Yeah, I think i can see the similarity in smell between the two.

    I got mine from perfumersworld, seems to be of decent purity. Its such a strong smell, I cant imagine it getting much better.

    I...
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    Re: Phenylacetic Acid

    I really dislike this molecule, to me it smells exactly like mildewy clothes! It only has a small honey aspect to it.
  24. Re: What materials block reed diffusers?

    Hedione also actually helps with diffusion also, its known as one of the best for this effect, but also has fixative effects. You should do some test runs. If you feel like its not diffusing across...
  25. Re: the 'vapor-dry-crystallize' method - and why it can never work

    Its awesome if that helps you, but Im just saying that crystalization isnt exactly an inherent property of a compound. Most materials can be either crystal or solid under different conditions.
  26. Re: the 'vapor-dry-crystallize' method - and why it can never work

    Just do an experiment, mix your perfume oil without any alcohol or outside solvent. You can heat up in a microwave for a few seconds if necessary. You will see in most cases that the crystals will...
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    Re: What vital materials am I missing?

    Ethyl linalool is pretty nice, dihydro myrcenol and ethyl linalyl acetate for that fresh or floral area.

    Tabanon or tobacco absolute are pretty nice and unique, also Romanolide is a great, non...
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    Re: Clove bud oil - Farnesol

    I thought it was listed as a percent of the fragrance concentrate?
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    Really, you guys need to try libertynatural.com they have amazing prices on most oils, very legit and economical! Here are two screenshots of their prices, looks like they have white and pink lotus....
  30. Re: Name the 3 most beautiful material you know

    I can't decide,

    Tobacco abs. was suprisingly quite good, very sweet and honey like.

    Romanolide is quite nice, also musk R1.

    Bergamot EO is pretty great, as everyone knows haha
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    The stuff is ok in my opinion. It kinda has a rubbery aspect to it, especially neat. I got some samples for a very reasonable price at libertynatural.com I think it's only special because its special...
  32. Re: the 'vapor-dry-crystallize' method - and why it can never work

    In a mix, most materials will likely not crystallize. They would have to be quite pure to crystallize.

    My hypothesis is that they all usually end up in an oily substance on the skin. Aroma...
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    Re: Wormwood and Wisteria

    You should try katafray, seems challenging to work it into something nice.

    How did that work out for you? Were you mixing them together or as seperate perfumes?
  34. Re: What makes the top note of patchouli oil?

    Hmm interesting, thats good to know!

    So it turns out that Azarbre and Guaiene were close hits to that note I was sensing. Not quite on, but as close as I've found! I think I could mix this with...
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    Re: Long Lasting Linalool Types

    Thanks RSG, Ill try it out. I have never really been able to smell farnesene, does it come out more in a mix? Also what should I replace Syringaldehyde with? I dont have that one.
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    Re: Long Lasting Linalool Types

    Thanks everyone, definitely some great ideas! Yeah I did forget to add some, and I kinda forgot about coranol its definitely a winner! Yeah I do have ethyl linalool, its very nice but not super long...
  37. Re: Could there be 3 types of accords?

    Yep very true! Accords often seem to give it a natural feel because it smells so "balanced". They seem to smooth out the sharp edges of the other notes. Creating a beautiful harmony!

    I look at the...
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    Long Lasting Linalool Types

    I know someone already created a thread like this but I thought I would create my own as the other is a few years old and this one will be a little more focused hopefully.

    That linalool scent is...
  39. Re: What makes the top note of patchouli oil?

    Thanks everyone, yeah I've got a lot of this stuff you guys mentioned in my shopping cart at the moment. I have studied gcms of patchouli as well but I was just hoping on some opinions besides just...
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    Re: Magnol

    Oops I got confused with Magnolan which I like a lot. Magnol, yeah isnt too impressive. I havnt found a way to use it.
  41. Re: What makes the top note of patchouli oil?

    Thank you. I suppose my original question was, to be more clear, what compound is found in the top note of patchouli oil that makes it sweet? I know this isn't information that is super well known,...
  42. gamma-bicyclohomofarnesal, where to find this amber note?

    gamma-bicyclohomofarnesal, aka ambrinal once from the Soviet union. Have any of you guys tried this? It sounds very nice, I would love to try some! Superambrox as well btw! I was just reading about...
  43. Re: What makes the top note of patchouli oil?

    I'll try it out, I think Im aiming for something a little sweeter though. Balsalmic, like smelling patchouli straight from the bottle.
  44. What makes the top note of patchouli oil?

    The top note of most patchouli oils is pretty awesome. Sweet and almost chocolatey. But after about 5 minutes it usually changes to a sharp soil type scent that isn't so pleasing. Seems like some...
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    Re: Ck One formula

    Translate this site from russian. I think the formula is in English anyway. https://perfuwoman.livejournal.com/41919.html
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    Re: Recreating Dior Eau Savauge...

    Well the thing is that someone posted more info on it, and then deleted it from that forum. There is some info but some is missing...

    There were some great suggestions but I thought I would make...
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    Recreating Dior Savauge...

    I posted a while ago looking for some help with this recreation, I couldn't decide which one I wanted more the original or the new remake. Someone posted info for the new one and I regret not saving...
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    So I have a possibly disappointing ending to the story, I went to the store and bought the "special aged patchouli" and I found out I dont even like the dry down at all! It really smells like some...
  49. Re: Constituents of CP's Ambergris Accord

    She never responded to me haha. I think maybe it has caramel furanone...
  50. Re: Carnation / Dianthus / Pinks / Sweet William

    I got some carnation absolute 3% from creating perfume.com, and it smells like rotten pumpkins haha. I dont notice much spice and there is hardly any floral note. I think maybe some of the flowers...
  51. Re: Muguet ACs Closest to Lily of the Valley Scent

    Nice! Yeah It's a beautiful and delicate scent. I found a variety when in the mountains one time. It's a masterpiece of God for sure! Beautifully balanced, floral, light and sweet but not too much.
  52. Re: Structural Chemistry of Diffusion & Tenacity Combination?

    I get what your saying, it does make sense. By solubility I guess I was referring to the ease at which the molecule "dissolves" into the air.

    It's also very interesting that aldehydes can help...
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    Re: Aged Myrrh (5 years) on scent strip

    Does your aged myrrh still have the, as my wife says, burnt cables smell? Haha, kinda like rubber? I suppose that's what people refer to when calling it a medicinal smell. I love myrrh but ever since...
  54. Re: Constituents of CP's Ambergris Accord

    Thanks, I'd like to compare to some of your other charts. Can I find them online?

    I just sent Susan and email, I'm curious to see what she says.
  55. Re: Muguet ACs Closest to Lily of the Valley Scent

    Thanks, yeah I've seen this. I'm reluctant to try it. It seems like it would be a perfumy, muguet note but not an actual close representation of the smell of lily of the valley. Can anyone reveiw...
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    Interesting, sounds cool I'd like to hear about that experiment!



    Haha yeah that's just how it is! Man I remember some of my first extracts, what a mess hahaha! It's hard to do it cleanly...
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    I'm gonna have to do another test of some patchouli left out to oxidize. I agree, I think this might do the job. What your describing sounds like what I smelled. I should just go and buy some haha, I...
  58. Re: Natural organic fruit flavors in perfume-making?

    I know this post is a few years old haha, but I thought I would add in my two cents on dissolving hard to dissolve items. And I would also love to hear more on some natural fruity materials!

    I...
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    You guys have added some interesting additions! That's unfortunate that the plants didnt turn out smelling like patchouli haha! Yeah that would of been cool! That's interesting how they need to be...
  60. Re: Ambroxan, nice. Cetalox, nice. Fixateur, nice. Ambergris Oliffac... wtf?

    I just got in the ambergris t ollifac from CP.com, it's great I really like it. It does kinda have a fixateur 505 scent, maybe a very small amount of ambrinol and some other oceanic type scent. Its...
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    Yeah especially with citrus oils or other light sensitive ones, its recommended to add vitamin e as an antioxidant or also molecules that absorb uv light.

    I've never really heard of oxidation...
  62. Re: Constituents of CP's Ambergris Accord

    Yeah I was thinking about it, I might as well give it a try right? Let's see what she says
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    I'm talking about the Palo Santo oil, I haven't tested the patchouli, I got it in the mail two weeks after starting the experiment. According to Ananda apothecary, the patchouli alcohol is supposed...
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    I made sure to wait until it cooled to room temp. I didnt check for longevity, I'll try that next time I think. I let two others try it and they agreed that the smells were different, and my wife...
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    I made sure to wait until it cools to room temp. I'll shake it next time just to be sure. I didnt check for longevity, I'll try that next month I think. I let two others try it and they agreed that...
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    My experiment is going well, the Palo Santo oil has been aging about two weeks and the smell does seem to be aging well. Already there is a noticeable difference. It seems slightly sweeter and less...
  67. Re: Constituents of CP's Ambergris Accord

    Yes I believe so, I was hoping maybe somebody has smelled it and could point out what that really sweet scent is.
  68. Constituents of CP's Ambergris Accord

    Has anyone got an idea of what is in creatingperfume.com's Ambergris Accord? It's pretty awesome in my opinion and unlike anything I've experienced elsewhere. It is extreamely sweet and penetrating,...
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    Re: Distiller

    You just need to buy some aroma chemicals, essential oils etc. Get some perfumers alcohol. I use glass pipettes and just wash/squirt/rinse it with denatured alcohol after every use. Research some...
  70. Muguet ACs Closest to Lily of the Valley Scent

    I got a fragrance oil from Piping Rock and its pretty amazing, it smells exactly like a lily of the valley flower! Im wondering if you guys have any ideas of what they use? Or have you come across...
  71. Re: A lily scent - NOT lily of the valley?

    In the book Diary of a Nose, there is a simple accord listed for lily. Phenyl ethyl alcohol, benzyl salicylate and schiffs base (methyl anthranilate schiffs base?) It does smell pretty similar.
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    Re: Mimicking allyl amyl glycolate?

    Well I'd love to hear your suggestions either way! Sounds interesting, AAG is a unique scent.
  73. Re: Difference between Ambroxan, Ambrox Super, Cetalox and Ambroxide?

    Check out this post on them, they are asking the same thing we are. It seems like we're both kinda right. http://www.basenotes.net/threads/433729-Ambrox-Super-What-do-we-know-about-it

    92432
  74. Re: Difference between Ambroxan, Ambrox Super, Cetalox and Ambroxide?

    No I'm not haha
  75. Re: Difference between Ambroxan, Ambrox Super, Cetalox and Ambroxide?

    According to creatingperfume.com, ambrox super has this cas number: 3738-00-9. This is the same cas number as ambroxan, they should be the same molecule for the most part.
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Light?

    I just found a decent validation of what I'm talking about, but looks like heat is the better option. It's not a direct mention, but the general idea is very similar.

    In the perfume industry, It...
  77. Re: MATURING OF ESSENTIAL OIL and SDA 40B

    I just made a forum talking about something similar, maybe check it out! http://www.basenotes.net/threads/459778-Maturing-Essential-Oils-With-Light
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Light?

    Here is a comparison with their "aged" patchouli above and the regular dark patchouli below. Notice how there are "unknown epoxide sesquiterpines" in the aged, it also suggests some type of...
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Light?

    Yes I know it seems counter intuitive, but whatever their doing, it works and really there are only a few methods they could be using. Here are their test results, yes it does degrade and destroy...
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Light?

    I should of clarified, I'm pretty sure the idea is to cause these processes to speed up, but while overall maintaining the integrity of the oil. Olive oil and citrus oils are quite extreme cases...
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    Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    So I went into an aromatherapy shop today, called Ananda Apothecary. They told me how they have a "proprietary aging process", which they use on oils like sandalwood, patchouli, cedarwood etc. I read...
  82. Re: Ambroxan, nice. Cetalox, nice. Fixateur, nice. Ambergris Oliffac... wtf?

    Does anyone know what percentage of ambrinol is found in real ambergris? I have been looking online and cant find any clear references for the exact composition. One place said it has ambrein 25-40%...
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    Re: allyl amyl glycolate

    My wife and I liked it a lot, I just got some in the mail, it is diluted at 50%. From creating perfume. On a blotter I noticed this, which I just posted somewhere else... " It's a unique smell and...
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    Re: Mimicking allyl amyl glycolate?

    I have the AAG now and yes I agree, it's a vital component. It's a unique smell and not nasty as I have heard some say. It almost has a spicy pepper aspect, its fresh, a little toned down pineapple...
  85. Re: Structural Chemistry of Diffusion & Tenacity Combination?

    These are some good points too. I would be very interested to see if there are specific structures that have high "solubility" in nitrogen gas/air.

    Also it seems that an aromatic ring could...
  86. Re: Difference between Ambroxan, Ambrox Super, Cetalox and Ambroxide?

    I thought ambroxide wasnt so expensive compared to some others but idk. I think it was synthesized a while ago so it's not patented or anything. Some of the others are more expensive because they...
  87. Re: Difference between Ambroxan, Ambrox Super, Cetalox and Ambroxide?

    92234
  88. Re: Difference between Ambroxan, Ambrox Super, Cetalox and Ambroxide?

    From what I can see ambroxide is the general name f the chemical. Ambrox and ambroxan are trade names from two different company's but of the same chemical. They probably smell very similar but...
  89. Structural Chemistry of Diffusion & Tenacity Combination?

    It seems to me that the basenotes forums are missing a topic, for people like me who are interested in the literal chemistry of fragrance. I'm sure it will be added eventually. I decided to add the...
  90. Re: Recreating Dior Eau Savauge, any starting ideas? (Or Bleu de Chanel)

    Thanks friends, wow basenotes you never cease to amaze me!
  91. Replies
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    Re: Woods - Norlimbanol / Timberol

    To me norlimbanol smells extremely similar to Cashmeran. Along with amber extreme, they are all nearly identical, if you know one of these, you'll know the scent or norlimb. I was excited to get a...
  92. Recreating Dior Eau Savauge, any starting ideas? (Or Bleu de Chanel)

    Any ideas? Ive only heard two specific things about this formula. Supposedly it has no musks and it has 30% hedione (in the concentrate I'm guessing.)

    I have no idea where people are getting this...
  93. Re: USA Selling my surplus perfume supplies for DIYers

    I've still got most of the supplies. Let me know if your interested!
  94. Replies
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    Re: GC/MS Spectroscopy EO Test for me?

    Thanks for sharing, I'm gonna check them out. I was wondering where I could get a good saffron absolute. They seem trustable, and reasonably priced. I'll do some more research sometime soon.
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    Re: Help me with using Musks?

    Thanks for the comments everyone! I have been doing quite a study on musks since I first posted, what very interesting materials! And with a whole history and evolution behind them! I put a whole...
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    Re: Mimicking allyl amyl glycolate?

    Thanks, yeah I went ahead and got the AAG. It's interesting, I heard one person classify it as a musk too. The tin can note doesn't sound too attractive for me, but I'm excited to see what it's like....
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    Re: GC/MS Spectroscopy EO Test for me?

    I've found Plant Guru on ebay, they seem pretty legit and quite cheap. They do provide gc/ms for most products.

    Also I came across a place in Canada called phytochemia, they offered to do me a...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Mimicking allyl amyl glycolate?

    Thanks, Ok so it's mainly just a pineapple scent? Allyl Caproate is the original pineapple, that's why I'm thinking it will work well for me (I'm about to pick up another bunch of supplies and I'm...
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    Mimicking allyl amyl glycolate?

    I'm wondering if allyl amyl glycolate is necessart for me to buy to recreate a creed aventus. I have not yet smelled aventus or the AAG. But I do have allyl caproate and fresh galbanum, also a...
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    Re: Cashmeran analogs? Know if any?

    Yeah those comparisons are awesome right!? I found them, but it's not easy to search, anyone know how to search specifically that section on the site?

    Check out the raw materials section of...
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