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  1. Re: Une Bois Vanille is total trash - fight me

    Is there a difference in versions by any chance with this? (not that there is any obviously IFRA noncompliant ingredient)
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    Re: Raunchy, dirty and elegant leathers.

    Something can be elegant but have some background of raunchiness. In the same way as a dress can be revealing and yet elegant at the same time.
    Off the top of my head, at different ends of the...
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    Re: Favourite leather fragrance

    I think that Derby is still good in its current incarnation, but the base has changed obviously, less oakmoss and more woods and ambers to substitute for the missing oakmoss.
    I concur with Ncal that...
  4. Re: Acqua di Parma - Essenza, Osmanthus and Quercia

    I didn't like the Quercia I tried (too synthetic for me), but don't remember what version it was. I enjoyed Osmanthus, a very nice fresh floral, but for osmanthus I prefer the more ethereal and...
  5. Re: Cabochard Parfum splash - Question on decanting

    As foxbins was saying, parfums concentrations typically come in dab because spray could be too much. Typically, the glass cap works as dabber, dab yourself two or three times.

    You can of course...
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    Re: Latest Diptyque Release - Eau Capitale!

    Just tried it in a store. Rose floral-nothing out of the ordinary but nice. No fruitchouli at all.
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    Re: Warm and cold weather niche fragrances

    I have not tried the Xerjoff so not sure about their longevity and projection. In general, citrus based perfumes tend to be fleeting, so it's always a problem with fresh perfumes. Fresh materials...
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    Re: Dried Rose Petals, Spices and Potpourri

    The SMN Potpourri is more or less what the name is, like the potpourri that they sell.

    I'm also assuming that Parfums de Rosine have something in their range, but not sure which one.

    cacio
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    Re: For the Vintager Who Has Everything

    So one was supposed to get a spritz on one's hand?
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    Re: Latest Giorgio Armani - Acqua Di Gio Profondo!

    I don't recall the use of the word "profondo" for a flanker yet. Let's see what the depth means.

    If it's successful, we could then have a "profondo nero" and "profondo blu". And perhaps a...
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    Re: Millenials and Vintage

    Who knows... that would be good. But after all aquatics and fruitchoulis have been around long enough to be associated with an older generation. Also, with the beards sported by many millenials, it...
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    Re: Travelo atomizer questions

    I don't have the Travalos so I'll let others answer regarding the size. Bottle sprays vary across perfumes. In my experience, travel atomizers are about average spray size. You should put into the...
  13. Re: what are you favorite vintage leathers from days of yore?

    I don't perceive Kouros as leather-but sure I like it.

    Back to the theme. Restricting myself to leathers that no longer exist, the animalic Schiaparelli Shocking and the sweet/butch Jolie Madame....
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    Re: osmanthus ,any recommend?

    I tried the ADP and enjoyed it, it's a clean osmanthus. But a bit simple, it doesn't have the (hidden) complexity of Osmanthe Yunnan (which highlights some notes, like the tea-like, slightly leathery...
  15. Re: Chanel's latest marketing videos - I am a Parfumeur

    Thanks for the link. Not among the worst ads.

    But once again it shows what Chanel is doing with those jasmine fields in Grasse now that IFRA does not allow their product to be used. They're...
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    Re: Favorite Leather Fragrances!!!!

    With cold weather, I like leathers a lot too. Probably most used would be Rien, Bandit, Leather Oud (I do get leather out of this, obviously not the leather of say Tuscan Leather), as well as vintage...
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    Re: Chanel Sycomore EDT vs EDP

    As others said too, if you prefer smooth and spicy, then the EDP will work best for you. (And vetiver tonka should work as well, though I think that's too much in that direction.)
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    Re: Chanel Sycomore EDT vs EDP

    I detect some difference, the EDP being smoother and less stark (which to me is a minus). But it's not day and night to my nose, and I am ok with edp as well, though I prefer the edt.

    I like my...
  19. Re: Fragrances - Do some lose their scent with time

    As hednic was saying, perfumes that are properly stored can remain in good state for decades.

    Some notes go off faster than others, especially things like citrus or aldehydes. Base notes like...
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    Re: Chanel No 5 EDP Splash

    I don't recall seeing this in the US. But I would not be surprised. Chanel does many seasonal things with the No 5 franchise. I remember things like bath oil, spritz oil, various related products....
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    Re: Aromatics Elixir - taming the beast?

    This is my mom's favorite perfume, so i guess I got used. But it is true that it is a strong one.

    The usual way to tame a strong perfume to one's nose is to apply far away from the nose. The...
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    Re: Do any of these stand out?

    Many good ones in the list. Egoiste seems like a good price quality ratio.
    cacio
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    Re: Reference Musk, Civet, and Castoreum

    I too find Joy really strong on civet (and pleasantly so)-in fact, I would have said Joy had I answered the original post. Jasmine and civet are one of the key marriages of classic perfumery.

    cacio
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    Re: Chanel Egoiste vs Bois des Iles

    Egoiste is clearly a son of Bois des Isles. Bois des isles is smoother, more ambery, very soft and cozy. In other words, less woods and more soft materials. But they aren't miles away. If you like...
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    Re: Opposite of powdery

    I'm thinking vetivers-especially if they are green and zingy. My favorites include Malle Vetiver extraordinaire and Chanel sycomore.

    cacio
  26. Re: Summery unisex recommendations - Aqua di Parma?

    I enjoy cipresso di Toscana too. Ok but not spectacular longevity on me. Along the same lines, AdP used to have a Mirto as well that was very pleasant. Neither registers as particularly masculine...
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    Re: Caron - Tabac Noir - 2019 Release ???

    Somehow, yet another patch doesn't sound that exciting...
  28. Re: I just tried “I am trash” from ELd’O and...

    Agree-very nice perfume, though not at all like the name.

    I love the house. Fat electrician is probably one I don't love-it's a good vetiver, but I perfer sharper, greener ones. ELDOs I love...
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    Re: Acqua Di Parma packaging? plastic wrap?

    Like HSK, I think a likely explanation is that this was a return or something people tried and didn't like, and then the reseller put around another shrinkwrap, which was not as polished as the one...
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    Re: Khiel's Original Musk

    Re: the part as strengthening the perfume, I haven't tried so I don't know, but it is true that musks last a long time and could be used for the purpose. However, the Kiehl's musk will add a smell of...
  31. Re: Neiman Marcus Exclusives worth checking out?

    Congrats! Great choices. I like them too, especially Portrait of a lady.
    And Monsieur is a very good patchouli, perfect for everybody despite the name (in the same way that Portrait of a lady is...
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    Re: Just starting.... over again?!

    It seems like a good idea, since often the first impressions at the beginning of one's perfume journey can change as one smells more things and becomes better able to evaluate things. Occasionally I...
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    Re: What are the best fragrances from Dior?

    Fahrenheit in mainstream.
    Leather oud in the prive line.
  34. Re: Neiman Marcus Exclusives worth checking out?

    As hednic was saying, I don't think there is any exclusive in the sense of not available elsewhere in the US. But in most towns, there are brands that are only found at NM.


    One that comes to...
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    Re: Looking for ideas/inspiration

    Welcome.

    I'm not a fan of aquatics myself. That said, I have found Community by The Zoo really interesting, an unusual aquatic citrus.

    For fougeres, you probably heard about it already, but...
  36. Re: What is my wardrobe missing? Recommendations?

    I didn't see any Malle (nor Le Labo), but Lutens were still there. I guess Shiseido didn't get their bottles back...

    cacio
  37. Re: How much should you spend on my fragrance collection?

    My view is that perfume goes in the luxury category-that is, if one is deciding whether to buy a perfume, or a necessity or invest in an IRA or the like, then the choice should not be the perfume. If...
  38. Re: What is my wardrobe missing? Recommendations?

    A leather perhaps? I see you have Galop, which I like, though it is on the very soft side.

    Regarding which, I was at Barney's yesterday and they had 40% off perfumes. They didn't have much, but...
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    Re: Your top 5: aldehydic florals

    1. Calandre: perfect aldehydic rose
    2. Arpege:classic woody aldehydic floral
    3. Sortilege
    4. Chanel No 5 (vintage parfum)
  40. Re: Dior Sauvage & Fahrenheit Gel Douche on Hair ?

    I don't know the specific. It won't make hair fall and it will clean them. As Danny was saying, it won't add whatever specific substance you need for the hair (dandruff and what not).
    Also note...
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    Re: Equivalent of Chanel Pour Monsieur?

    Glad you found something you liked, in indirect ways. A way to lengthen top notes is to spray on fabric. But eventually the perfume will go into the drydown. Plus there's no point in wearing...
  42. Re: I am in need of an Hermes fragrance recommendation for my boyfriend (plus maybe one for me)

    Deleted: Sorry, didn't notice the Hermes part.

    Hermes is not big on big perfumes, the style is indeed light and airy, so not sure for you. Perhaps you can try Galop, which is a sweet and fruity...
  43. Thread: Hello, I'm new!

    by cacio
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    Re: Hello, I'm new!

    Welcome!

    Another Marco-though I am a few years older.

    I like bath products too-too bad that they aren't done much. Can't think of a good fougere that has shower gel. Perhaps Caron pour un...
  44. Re: "Your Mean Grandma" perfumes - can you recommend me some?

    Welcome!

    Bandit is considered the traditionally dark, sharp, and naughty perfume. It's sharp galbanum plus leather. Almost s&m.

    Somehow, the Hermes don't make that impression on me.

    cacio
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    Re: Equivalent of Chanel Pour Monsieur?

    Welcome!

    Pour monsieur is the reference citrus chypre for men. Possibly the most famous citrus chypre for women is Diorella. Citrus, but then also some sweetness and some flowers.

    cacio
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    Re: What is your ratio of samples to bottles?

    I don't buy samples and decants either, but I don't blind buy - I always smell before buying. and when one starts buying, one gets many samples anyway.

    cacio
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    Re: Just getting started and need some advice.

    Welcome!

    While it's true that hair may cover skin a bit, I would first doublecheck that you're just not suffering of nose fatigue. One cannot smell oneself after a while, so before jumping to...
  48. Re: Chypres, Neo-Chypres, and the Death of the Chypre

    Agree again. Chypre is a specific term, no point in reusing just for the sake of it
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    Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    Finally smelled this (at closing Barney's). Concur with most others. No oud. More like a spicy ambery thing of no particular interest. Didn't last much either (but I sprayed on my hand).
  50. Poll: Re: Amouage JAMBIYA bottle (vintage only) battle. Which os the best vintage Amouage?

    The Gold are big florals, The for woman is more classic, the for men has incense and a lot of civet. Both gorgeous, projecting and long lasting.

    Silver (man) it's hard to describe, it's more in...
  51. Re: Please recommend five fragrances from this list!

    Kind of casual, relaxed, but elegant.\

    In your list, I'd say Feve delicieuse (though it's overpriced), encre noire, eau sauvage. Shalimar too.
  52. Re: Guerlain Women’s Fragrances Men Easily Wear?

    Shalimar is a great oriental that certainly work well for men as well.

    Jicky is a reference fougere-actually, it might be marketed to men as well already. But many others will do-especially Vol de...
  53. Re: Christmas Morning, What Did You Give/What did you get?

    Wonderful gifts!

    Re: Galop, that's a favorite of mine...
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    Re: Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7 substitute

    I like boutonniere too but there aren't very many gardenia perfumes around.

    Tauer Sotto la luna gardenia is a good clean gardenia, it should be more powerful than the arquiste.

    There are also...
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    Re: Fragrance on clothes

    As swagner was saying.

    Projection depends on heat. Clothes are usually colder than skin, so a perfume will project less. But as usually it depends. If you apply in the armpit area of a shirt, for...
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    Re: Classy niche fragrances

    Great collection!

    Since you tend to like classics, I will toss in Le Galion Sortilege (woody floral). You also seem to like perfumes with rose, so I'm thinking Auphorie L'anima della rosa.

    cacop
  57. Re: Christmas Morning, What Did You Give/What did you get?

    My sister surprised me with stuff from a store that was closing: Indult reve en cuir, Jeroboam vespero, Wild aoud.
  58. Re: which fragrances work really well along with eating dinner or lunch?

    Luca Turin talks about this a few times.

    Anyway, old Guerlain all have a gourmand touch together with nonedible elements, so they often work. An example would be shalimar, which certainly goes...
  59. Thread: Wedding Gift

    by cacio
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    Re: Wedding Gift

    If you are ok with niche, the niche house Parfums de Rosine has a perfume called "Vive la mariee", which means long live the bride, so it seems quite appropriate to the occasion. It's a nice,...
  60. Re: Can you please recommend winter fragrances from these houses?

    Jo Malone: oud and bergamot. There was also a bronze wood and leather. But the house is really known for light, fruity or floral things, not for warm wintery ones
    Artisan: seconding Timbuktu, an...
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    Re: Bvlgari Au The Noir -- anyone tried it?

    I'm resurrecting this thread because tonight my sister lathered herself with the eau parfumee au the noir body cream I gave her. While I was away she took and shower and applied postshower. The smell...
  62. Re: What do you think of L’eau D’Issey these days?

    It was innovative and very successful, so much so that the style has become the dominant one in masculine perfumery. It's still a very good one in the genre.
    I personally don't like the style, but...
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    Re: question about 'Fougeres'

    What note are you referring to exactly?
    Traditional fougeres had a tonka-type of drydown (ie powdery fresh). Many now go towards clean white musk or fresh modern molecules. I have not smelled...
  64. Poll: Re: Help me with this 3 fragrances....( try one).

    Unfortunately I have tried only Louis, so I cannot vote.

    To me, Louis is a modern twist on the classic masculine fougere. So it scores well in modern, masculine, and it projects well. It is not as...
  65. Re: Your 10 everyday essentials (including fragrance)

    1.Wallet
    2.Card holder
    3.Keys
    4.Sunglasses
    5.Coffee travel mug
    6.Pillbox (Ibuprofen/acetaminophen, whatever else needed)
    7.lipbalm
    8. SPF

    When out for the night, also
  66. Replies
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    Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Next conferences (at ESCE Paris, 10 rue Sextius Michel)

    tuesday jan 21 630pm - Ancient greece: inexhaustible source of inspiration for perfumery

    wednesday feb 26 630 pm - English perfumery
    ...
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    Re: Brand New Dior Privee - Rouge Trafalgar!

    Wow-you're quite the insider!

    I wonder the reason for the name. Red as in the blood spilled at Trafalgar?
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    Re: Best mens cologne for $200 or less

    One I am currently finding a perfect classic for all occasions is Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense, which I think is just below the price limit.

    cacio
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    Re: typical, "textbook" frankincense you recommend?

    Re piney-some incenses do have piney aspects (after all, pine is a resin too). The one in frankincense however is really not as sharp and green as pine. To my nose it's closer to lemon than pine. But...
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    Re: typical, "textbook" frankincense you recommend?

    If you've been at a Mass in an old catholic church where the priest wafted clouds of incense, your memory will recognize it.

    I'd describe it as clean smoke, ie smoke but without the black, sooty...
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    Re: typical, "textbook" frankincense you recommend?

    Incense can mean many burning resins. Frankincense is actually lighter smelling and more citrusy than most. I'd say $$ Armani Bois d'encens.
  72. Thread: Help Me decide

    by cacio
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    Re: Help Me decide

    Welcome!

    In your list, I recommend Dior Homme Intense because it's the warmest, and should do very well in rainy weather.
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    Re: Amouage Myths Man or Amouage Jubilation XXV

    Myths in interesting, but overall I prefer Jub XXV. Perhaps no big innovation in Jub, but a very solid incense.
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    Re: Question about Cologne Sologne by Nikolai

    I bought the 1 liter online-with delivery in Europe (when I go to Italy to see my parents). No problem carrying it back. In the checked baggage of course.
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    Re: Question about Cologne Sologne by Nikolai

    It is indeed a very good and lovely neroli cologne. But I agree with most others, it is a true, traditional eau de cologne, that is, it is intended to freshen, but not to last. You definitely need to...
  76. Re: Looking for a discontinued Bvlgari fragrance

    Agree with Quarry. If you mean cylindrical, then it's probably one of the Eau parfumee au the series (burgundy would be the rouge).

    cacio
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    Re: Yep another wedding one - but shortlisted :)

    I'd say Aramis 900, which is the warmest perhaps. The current version is rather weak on me, but then this need not be a downside, since you will not want to upstage the main characters of the...
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    Re: Sandalwood struggle

    As others were saying, real Mysore sandalwood is now unavailable and it is not used in perfumery. I bet you would be able to smell Mysore sandalwood well.

    Current sandalwood notes are really...
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    Re: Can you find the hidden unicorn?

    If chlorophyll cools the skin, then it probably means it's highly irritating and shouldn't be in skincare. Which of course wouldn't prevent skincare companies in using it for marketing purposes (as...
  80. Re: Best all season perfume for tropical climate (India)

    For hot an humid, I think vetivers work quite well. They are fresh, long lasting, and can be quite elegant. Guerlain vetiver is a classic, but there are many other vetivers.

    cacio
  81. Re: Seeking scents for my wife, must be light and non-floral

    I have not tried the specific flanker of Alien. Alien per se is quite floral. But there are many floral smells, so it could be that she's thiniking about other floral smells.

    In any case, when...
  82. Re: can anyone talk about Aramis 900, Tuscany and Devin in terms of their performance?

    My mom wore (and still wears) Aromatics Elixir too.
  83. Re: can anyone talk about Aramis 900, Tuscany and Devin in terms of their performance?

    My new Aramis 900 smells good but it doesn't last that long-so you definitely have to reapply. However, I don't do 5 sprays, but more like 2-3, so perhaps that's what makes the difference. Or perhaps...
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    Re: Can you find the hidden unicorn?

    Thanks for the juicy pics!

    Evidently the material du jour existed even then... chlorophyll is probably due for a comeback in skincare soon.

    Also, noticing the add that described the shockingly...
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    Re: Can you find the hidden unicorn?

    I'd be curious about a chloro-cologne too!

    I hadn't known about the flask bottle of Si'-Schiaparelli certainly had a knack for bottle as well.

    cacio
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    Re: Can you find the hidden unicorn?

    Yep-as cook.bot was saying. If in perfect condition, these would be real gems. But one has to account for the (substantial risk). so the buyer is a wealthy collector who is willing to bear the risk....
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    Re: A gift for my mom

    On the green side, I was thinking about the other Chanel, Cristalle (especially in the eau verte version). But perhaps she knows it already.
  88. Re: Powerhouse Fragrances - two that brought to my knees

    I have not tried the two you mention and so now I am curious.

    Hard to think about anything stronger than Interlude. Boadicea Complex comes to mind, an intense leather, and Beaufort Tonnerre,...
  89. Thread: LUSH Fragrances

    by cacio
    Replies
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    Re: LUSH Fragrances

    Wow, there seem to be many more than I have tried.

    anyway, from the ones I know, my favorites are:
    Breath of God: combo of smoky and superfresh
    Smuggler's soul: fresh vetiver with a touch of...
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    Re: How to pick black dress shoes

    Weird that they didn't have. This should be the staple of formalwear, ie the bread and butter of such stores. Perhaps it's christmas time and they are exhausting their stock/bringing in christmas...
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    Re: Who know lush Death and decay?

    I haven't tried the beaufort. Death and decay to my nose is predominantly a floral that soon moves into a quiet tonka-heliotropin drydown, and that suggests neither death nor decay (although some...
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    Re: Top 10 women's fragrances for $60 or less

    Thanks! Good to know.
  93. Replies
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    Re: Top 10 women's fragrances for $60 or less

    Calandre is one of my favorite perfumes. But sadly I have never seen it at discounters.
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    Re: Citrus on a cold Winter’s day

    Another vote for New York Intense. Not a citrus per se, but puts together a citrus with a warmer drydown.

    cacio
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    Re: Top 10 women's fragrances for $60 or less

    Estee Lauder Youth Dew comes to mind. Also, thinking at what's usually available at TJ max and the like, Anais Anais can usually be found for very little there.
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    Poll: Re: Reflection Man vs Myths Man | Amouage

    I prefer Myths because more unique. However, I don't think that either is really the best amouage.
  97. Re: Adding a winter fragrance to the office rotation

    Welcome!

    I find that Egoiste (the regular Egoiste, not Platinum Egoiste) is perfect for the winter, very warm and not citrusy. It's really about warm woods and vanilla. it is however a touch...
  98. Re: What is your worst used fragrance purchase experience?

    As with others, there's the occasional vintage diluted with something else. Luckily not too often.
    But probably the worse case was a Schiaparelli Shocking torso shipped as is (ie with the glass...
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    Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    Interesting about your view of Community. Luckily, I did not think about Carrillon pour un ange, which I find quite somber and not entirely successful. Community to me is a variation on the classic...
  100. Thread: Candle questions

    by cacio
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    Re: Candle questions

    Unfortunately not easy to find in the US, but another brand that's worth checking is Parfums de Nicolai.

    cacio
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