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  1. Replies
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    Re: I need the help of a perfumist/"nose"

    I was on Crete this year and what stood out from all the scents was thier night blooming jasmine. You can try smelling the Greek company's KORRES shower gel or body lotion called Jasmine (Giasemi) it...
  2. Re: Frangipani/Plumeria base - anybody have one?

    Another frangipani base, I provided CAS numbers in case the ac's are not identifiable.

    CIS-3-HEXENYL SALICYLATE 65405-77-8
    0.9

    2,6-DIMETHYL-7-OCTEN-2-OL 18479-58-8
    6.2
    ...
  3. Re: Frangipani/Plumeria base - anybody have one?

    Ylang Ylang Frangipani Tuberose Perfume Composition
    Patent 5,248,792
    For Fragrance Use
    150.00 linalool
    130.00 benzyl acetate
    100.00 benzyl salicylate
    80.00 cinnamyl acetate
    ...
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    Re: Violet accord - i am lost

    Just wanted to chime in bc something tells me that all the formulas provided are seriously lacking that sweet violet heart note, the one that binds ionones together. That fruity green fresh and sweet...
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    Re: Question about labdanum

    Ok, thanks.

    Anyway, Ambroxan to me smells dry, paper, clean, sharp, woody-ish, tobacco.

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    Re: Question about labdanum

    Ambergris is a fossilized secretion from a whale. In a fragrance it has exalting effect. It smells marine, mineral, warm, decayed etc.

    Amber is an accord of bergamot, ethyl vanillin, labdanum...
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    Re: Powdery bases

    The catch with Narcisso Rodriguez is that it reminds strongly of classic egyptian musk oil. Clean yet earthy, animalic powdery yet fresh with a heavy powdery cosmetic feel. I also think that they...
  8. Replies
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    Re: Powdery bases

    If you look for powdery in classic sense, than the combo of ethyl vanillin, heliotrope, musk ketone will give you that feel (le male by gaultier for an example). Usually every powdery formula has...
  9. Re: First time posting... Prada Milano or Romance- Ralph Lauren

    Now, Prada Amber pour homme (the soapy one) is as it name says an Amber based fragrance. Amber is usually an accord of Vanilla, Labdanum, Benzoin and Bergamot. It is amber in colour, hence its name....
  10. Re: What's inside Déclaration (Eau de Toilette) de Cartier ?

    Also: bergamot, geranium, galbanum, dihydromyrcenol, cedar, musks (habanolide, auratouch).

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  11. Re: What musks, woody ambers are in Alien by Mugler?

    Most likely, Dominique Ropion's secret when it comes to jasmine in this fragrance is that he didn't use hedione as the usual jasmine booster. He used the less traditional approach and built it around...
  12. Re: What musks, woody ambers are in Alien by Mugler?

    I think hairspray note is probably benzyl acetate, often used in hair products plus musks. Grape is the elusive one though as many have commented they smell grape soda initially. Kephalis is an...
  13. Re: What musks, woody ambers are in Alien by Mugler?

    Hi Nizan, if it is any help Dune is made by Firmenich and Alien by IFF, only thing (in my opinion) these two share are synthetic sandalwood molecules. I'd look for Firmenich's sandalwood molecules....
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    Re: IFF commercially launches Amber Xtreme

    Grapes, you say?!
    Adam, thank you for the quick review. It seems that this might solve my quest for the secret ingredient I was looking for in Alien by Mugler, many times so far. Many people...
  15. Replies
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    1,871

    Re: Favorite Lactones

    What about massoia lactone or maple lactone? Anyone tried it yet?

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  16. Re: For a better understanding of what´s inside a perfume...

    Besides everything what Chris already said. Designers contract perfume companies like Givaudan, IFF etc to create perfume for them. Being that IFF and Givaudan produce these components themselves and...
  17. Replies
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    Re: Jubilation XXV

    Amouage is located in Oman and managed by a british manager. They have an exclusive source of the rose oil, produced for them in Oman. Apart from that rose oil, I highly doubt that they have anything...
  18. Replies
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    Re: Rice Powder Accord

    Perfumersworld has fragrant rice fleuressence (accord intended for blending). I haven't smelled this particular one but their other perfumery bases are not bad at all.

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    Re: Bitter Almond accord

    Benzaldehyde, Olfactik sells it.
    You could try a mix of benzaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, hedione, heliotropin and vanilla. For a green top nonyl acetate if you want to create impression of a fresh...
  20. Replies
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    Re: Jasmine accord

    Try apritone for that fruity fleshy heart. Add more benzyl acetate (natural if possible), isoamyl propionate to the top. I would skip methyl salicylate, too medicinal. I personally don't like methyl...
  21. Replies
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    Re: Question for the Experienced Perfumers

    At first, you might feel underwhelmed by some aromachemicals as they might seem too simple smelling and singular. To save you money in the beginning try getting some pre-made bases like key accords,...
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    Re: Ambroxan and iso e super mix

    That was my point, everyone seems to be overdosing these two nowadays, myself too in the beginning ;)

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    Re: Ambroxan and iso e super mix

    Iso e super has powdery quality apart from smelling ambery/woody, frankincense, cedar. It will lend volume to your composition, silkiness ifyou will. Ambroxan, on the other hand has a smell on its...
  24. Re: Can Benzyl Acetate be used to build a pear aroma?

    Prenyl acetate,
    PA has a nice pear key accord as well.

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  25. Re: Base notes used to create a citrus fragrance?

    Perfumersworld have good quality stuff.

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  26. Re: Base notes used to create a citrus fragrance?

    Lemon oil (top), Decenal (top to base), litsea cubeba (top to middle), Precyclemone b (middle), dihydromyrcenol (middle) a hint of aurantiol (base note) and of course hedione plus hedione hc (3:1...
  27. Re: What musks, woody ambers are in Alien by Mugler?

    After testing a lot of ac's woody/amber type I must sadly conclude that whaterver it is in Alien by Mugler base is not available on the market. It is NOT: trimofix, iso e super, ambroxan, javanol,...
  28. Thread: Bubblegum

    by perfectscent
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    Re: Bubblegum

    Benzyl acetate, linalool plus a touch of metyl benzoate will give you a bubblegum smell.

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    Re: Soft Tea Scent - what is it/

    Combination of Hedione (regular) and Ionone gives green tea scent as well.
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    Re: Soft Tea Scent - what is it/

    How about delphol hc or zeppin perhaps?
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    Re: Soft Tea Scent - what is it/

    Don't think it is aurantiol (musty citrus scent imo). It ruined some of my attempts at jasmine. Sampaquita (givaudan) is fresh, green, aromatic, slightly indolic or narcotic if you will, charged...
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    Re: Heliotropin: The Low Down

    Cool, thanks!

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    Re: New shop for raw materials online!

    I highly recommend liaison-carbone shop! Wanted to keep this a secret supplier but I guess it is public now, hehe. High quality materials, can't say enough praise. Everyone should try Teak, marine...
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    Re: Heliotropin: The Low Down

    Do you guys know what is piperonyl acetate? I have possibility zo acquire it but never smelled it. Is this in any way similar to heliotropin?

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  35. Re: The smell of playdough - can you sniff some for me?

    Hi mumsy, i found this interesting article, play-dough is also among the notes.
    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.co.at/2011/02/mapping-vocabulary-of-scent-what-smells.html?m=1

    As previously stated...
  36. Re: how can i increase diffusion longevity and silage on my perfumes ??

    What I understand you bought some fragrance concentrate - right? Where and what did you buy? What is the fragrance you are trying to "improve"? Where did it come from? How much did you pay for it? Is...
  37. Re: OH BOY...NEW PSH PRODUCTS! JASMOLACTONE (Firmenich) & a few others

    Christine, Paul,
    How would you guys compare Olibanol to Bois d'encens (Robertet)?
  38. Re: New to DYI. What suppliers should I avoid?

    I second PSH, shout out to Christine who apart from being a close member of our community, works really hard and is constantly growing, really sweet and personalized service that is hard to find.
  39. Replies
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    Re: Which floralizers do you know?

    Thanks for sharing, really appreciated!
  40. Replies
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    Re: Which floralizers do you know?

    Thanks Paul, but I meant floralizer in particular not generally floral.
  41. Re: OH BOY...NEW PSH PRODUCTS! JASMOLACTONE (Firmenich) & a few others

    Amazing!
  42. Replies
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    Which floralizers do you know?

    Which floralizers do you know and what are your favorites?

    I only know PEA so far to give that floral heart and boost somewhat.
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    Re: Sweet touch!

    Vetiveryl acetate can be aldehydic, green, watery, harsh even and may turn the whole composition beyond return, if not dosed carefully.

    I use methyl diantilis to add sweetnes to the heart notes...
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    Re: Favorite Lactones

    Gamma octalactone, transparent coconutty with a light peach facet, delta lactone and methyl laitone are also transparent to me somehow the latter smells like coconut milk in a fridge, surrounded by...
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    Re: Favorite Lactones

    Bedoukian lactone smells like milk, thick condensed milk if you will. Although powerful I see it could work in white florals. Methyl tuberate is a facet, thick milky, leathery, celery seed smell. A...
  46. Re: Piperonal (Heliotropin) in Perfumer and Flavorist

    Sadly, Piperonal is illegal to buy or import to Europe, unless you have a license.
    Talking about limitations in the diy.
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    Re: lavender heart and base

    Now on the same topic, what would be a good musk to support lavender, especially if I wanted to add vanilla to the base?
  48. Replies
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    Re: lavender heart and base

    Jasmonyl is a good addition to aid diffusion to lavender.

    Linalyl acetate is often used as modifyer to top of lavender, it adds sparkle.
  49. Re: Recommendations from DIY-ers in Paris/Rome?

    Paris has many olfactory houses, so to speak. Guerlain with exclusive lines, Palais Royal Shiseido Serge Lutens, Iunx by Olivia Giacobetti, Olfactoria Paris, Fragonard Perfume Museum, House of Creed...
  50. Replies
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    Re: Sweet fruity floral heart?

    Boye and Bill, wanted to thank you guys and give my feedback on apritone and magnolan thanks to Christine from PSH. Just got them today and I love them both. I haven't been able to test then...
  51. Replies
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    Re: Fruit accords formulae

    David, no offense taken ;)
  52. Re: Vetiver XL and Creamy Peach formulas added

    Graphite (user) has prismantol on her sales list, maybe she can provide some for you.
  53. Replies
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    Re: Sweet fruity floral heart?

    Ok, thank you
  54. Replies
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    Re: Sweet fruity floral heart?

    Cool, thank you very much Bill, that is great information and sounds very interesting. What I'm after is that fruity warm sweet heart some white florals have, juicy radiant, flower nectar....
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    Re: Sweet fruity floral heart?

    Cool, now you got me interested, especially about apritone. Could the apritone/magnolan combo be what I'm looking for??
    Please do tell me more about apritone smell?
    Thanks guys
  56. Replies
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    Re: Fruit accords formulae

    Well David, I have to "defend" my formula :). It smells like actual pink grapefruit: decenal, limonene, citral plus floropal et all add on. It is up to him to include modifyiers and to explore. I...
  57. Replies
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    Sweet fruity floral heart?

    What aromachemicals in you opinion add sweet fruity floral heart notes (to white florals per se) besides hydroxycitronellal, methyl anthranilate or dbca?

    Thanks!
  58. Replies
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    Re: Fruit accords formulae

    I posted this before but here it is again for you.

    Pink grapefruit

    Gardenia acetal 2.0
    Tonalid 0.3
    Alpha isomethyl-ionone 0.3
    Alpha terpineol 1.6
    Lilial 6.2
    Citronellol 0.5
  59. Replies
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    Re: Lift Jasmine Sambac Absolute

    Just wanted to add my two cents to the already good suggestions.
    Hedione will add lift and diffusion. Hexyl salicylate would add green balsamic quality typical for sambac. Cis jasmone, diffusion...
  60. Replies
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    Re: Vanilla Top Note Help

    Ethyl maltol in traces (it stretches from base to top goes well with vanilla adds fruity/candy floss smell), methyl diantilis (warm woody vanilla heart), anisaldehyde (hawthorn blossom, warm vanilla...
  61. Replies
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    Re: Eau de mandarine ambrée

    Paradisamide is more guava/rhubarb than passion fruit. Tropathiane is used for passion fruit or simply a passion fruit base. I think Christine from PSH stocks both. I also wanted to add that the...
  62. Replies
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    Re: Eau de mandarine ambrée

    Since this has a dna of a typical cologne, although modern, juicy happy one, I'd start by looking at classic cologne formula and go from there. The thing is, I don't smell any woods in it but a...
  63. Replies
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    Re: Eau de mandarine ambrée

    I own it currently and I can tell you that there is obviously mandarin in it, then citrussy aldehydes, it is said to have maracuja (passion fruit) in the heart and creamy amber (similar to but not...
  64. Re: Very unreliable Hermitage Oils experience!!

    Yes Mumsy, but it is not possible to speak to him if he doesn't pick up his phone. I also tried contacting them in the very beginning but my calls and e-mails were left unanswered. Besides that I,...
  65. Replies
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    Re: Lily of the Valley

    Dunno about undecavertol, to me it smells green, earthy, violet, watery. Imho might change the scent into something else.
  66. Replies
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    Re: Lily of the Valley

    Decenal in traces
  67. Replies
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    Re: Sampaquita - substantivity

    I had success adding following to it: amylcinnamic aldehyde, decenal trace, lyral, exaltolide, lilial, vanillin, ambroxan, isoamyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate. Single or in combination. All these...
  68. Replies
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    Re: Greek island!

    My strongest olfactive memory from Greece would be the smell of orange blossom coming from the many orange orchards mid february each year on the Pelopponese peninsula.

    The whole air smells then...
  69. Re: Anyone know how to recreate the smell of barbasol?

    lavender, coumarin combo. Rosalva (in traces) to boost. I know bc I made it once, by accident.
  70. Replies
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    Re: Formulating Allergy Warning

    I agree with Graphite though.


    Und weitere Infos dazu...

    https://www.verbrauchergesundheit.gv.at/lebensmittel/kosmetische_mittel/kosmetik.html
  71. Replies
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    Re: Formulating Allergy Warning

    First of all your fragrance needs to be IFRA compliant, meaning your fragrance can't contain above the allowed dosage per individual allergen and on the back of the package you simply list them. For...
  72. Re: Need your Opinion- Should I Offer Robertet Naturals for Presale Perfumer Supply House

    Sounds good...
  73. Replies
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    Re: Greek island!

    Greece is also known for its citrusses, orange blossom, ouzo (sambuca), oregano, rosemary (a dwarf rosemary which is very aromatic in this part of the world btw), thyme, frankincense (orthodox...
  74. Thread: Honey

    by perfectscent
    Replies
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    1,227

    Re: Honey

    Just wanted to share my 2 cents on "Miel IFF" base, while smelling ok on its own, a little on a dry side. It has ruined each blend I tried using it in and wasn't able yet to find a proper blender ac...
  75. Replies
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    Re: Norlimbanol in oil?

    I just don't understand the beauty of norlimbanol. To me it is a burnt rubber, plasticky, harsh and bitter chemical. I simply can't see it working on its own. For those of you who have used it, what...
  76. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl benzoate smell/effect?

    Hm, now I'm even more curious, thank you for sharing your impression...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Gardenia note

    I also recommend milk lactones from PSH if you want to make it creamy.
    Calone in traces to add fruity-aquatic touch.
  78. Re: Customer wants single Cashmeran Scent - Safe up to which amount?

    add too high of a concentration and it smells like wet concrete
  79. Re: Karmaflor (Givaudan) anyone ever smelled it?

    Thank you Chris, I thought so indeed.
  80. Replies
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    Re: Gardenia note

    Styrallyl acetate, gardenia characteristic top note

    aldehyde c18 (can be subbed through methyl laitone)

    cheers!
  81. Re: Karmaflor (Givaudan) anyone ever smelled it?

    Yes it is salicylate, the guy from Givaudan said in a interview from 2011 that this new material smells like tropical flowers, frangipani direction, naturally present in indian ashok flower. I am...
  82. Karmaflor (Givaudan) anyone ever smelled it?

    Has anyone ever smelled it?

    I am assuming it is a captive....

    Thanks!
  83. Replies
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    Re: Exclusive Materials Proposition

    I've been praying for a tuberose base to come to our market!
  84. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl benzoate smell/effect?

    Thank you David, so I shouldn't worry much about benzyl benzoate being it? In other words not that oily, balsamic, vanillic facet I might be after...
  85. Replies
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    Benzyl benzoate smell/effect?

    Been working recently with salicylates etc trying to create tropical flower accords and could be possibly missing a facet.
    All the formulas I saw contain benzyl benzoate, now I never smelled it but...
  86. Replies
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    Re: Madagascar Vanilla Absolute Supplier.

    For Eau Duelle type I'd use this accord (maybe lower ethyl maltol a bit - or maybe not) add musks (eau duelle is heavy on musks) and add Elemi (peppery/lemony) to the heart.
  87. Replies
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    Re: Madagascar Vanilla Absolute Supplier.

    Alpha, this rather simple accord smells great from the beginning to me and boosts other scents when added to them. I think of it as good exercise that showcases impact the other "non usual" suspects...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Madagascar Vanilla Absolute Supplier.

    Alpha, there is a great vanilla accord from Perfumers Apprentice wich uses vanillin, ethyl vanillin, hedione, ethyl maltol and methyl diantilis. I improved it myself by adding a hint of coumarin and...
  89. Re: Need opinon on which synthetic musk(s) to use for...

    Ambergris ollifac I got from pa smells like amber, a little salty, sea maybe a little, exalting a little, never smelked the real thing though. In higher concentration it smells like a foul breath.
  90. Replies
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    Re: We are Meeting on Skype right now

    Was nice to get to know you people :)
  91. Replies
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    Re: Google Hangout Saturday Jan 17?

    Would love to join in and say hi!
  92. Replies
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    Re: Freshly Unboxed Apple Product

    Odeur 53 by comme des garcons had a whole bunch of weird smelling things featured in it like flint, aluminum etc. If I remember correctly I could smell floralozone and some musks in it, among other...
  93. Re: Starting small, need advice regarding perfume oil business

    Well that depends on the storage, heat, weather and quality of the oils of course. But the diffrence is years for cyclomethicone vs a year to several months for natural oils.
  94. Replies
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    Re: Lime / Vanilla Fragrance

    My suggestion would be to also try adding a touch of tonka to vanilla to make it creamier. If you'd like to extend the lime note maybe a touch of litsea or ginger oil.
  95. Re: Starting small, need advice regarding perfume oil business

    I'd also go for cyclomethicone etc. like Paul suggested, rather than natural oils, because of the longer shelf life. Natural oils tend to get stale after a period of time.
  96. Poll: Re: Which BASE note do you think smells best with vanilla?

    Paul it is funny that you say vanilla or vanillin is way dominant in the US. Here in Europe (Austria) things are much more subtle, I guess. We don't get wafts of abercrombie or bath and body works...
  97. Re: What musks, woody ambers are in Alien by Mugler?

    Nizan ditto! I only have experience with ambroxan. I'd also be interested to know how they differ or perform, especially for the application I'm sort of ambitiously working on at the moment: the...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Aroma of Christmas Trees

    Cool :). I would also like to add aldehyde 12mna.
  99. Re: What musks, woody ambers are in Alien by Mugler?

    Thanks BAGreat for your observation it makes a lot of sense. Like said it is true that cashmeran is way more present than that formula actually states. I am half way of making it proper though....
  100. Replies
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    Re: Warm Glow?

    Ambers (ambroxan, fixateur 505, ambrox dl etc.) plus heliotropin for warmth plus diffusive woods like trimofix, cedramber etc. Oh and don't forget musks.
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