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    Re: Frankincense help please

    Has anybody bought frankincense from Qanaat Trading in Singapore? It has a very special balsamic quality without the usual lemony top notes. I find it smells unlike any frankincense I've ever...
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    Re: Best way to dirty up a fragrance?

    I rely on civet to dirty up florals. I haven't had luck with any of the artificial substitutes which smell aggressively fecal to me. I find that benzyl phenyl acetate adds an animalic and honey-like...
  3. Re: Interested in trying Mysore Sandalwood oil as a fragrance, what to expect?

    I'd be interested.
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    Re: Cannabis in perfumery

    Thank you Pears for your tip about the rosemary oleoresin. My tincture has remained green and fresh after a month in the fridge. The old one was brown and stale by now. The aroma smells, well, like...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    I've come up with a sandalwood that smells (to me) pretty authentic. However, when I smell sandalwood perfumes, they don't really smell like sandalwood but rather peoples' expectation of what...
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    Re: Natural fruit notes

    Did anyone mention cassis? It smells like the real fruit (and a good kir) to me.
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    Re: Dried Human Saliva Scent

    Barbara Herman (Scent & Subversion) discusses using Azurone for its "saliva aspect." I've never used it. Just thought I'd pass it on.
  8. Re: Immortelle Absolute into solution...?

    Thirty percent solubility sounds pretty high. I would guess that heating (and subsequent super cooling) might be the answer. Don't heat it directly, but in a hot water bath unless you want to blow up...
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    Re: Good heliotope

    Thanks Chris. What a can of worms. I asked Vigon for samples of all three of their versions (including the "natural" which is ten times the price of the "synthetic.") So I went to place an order for...
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    Re: Amber-Grisea, old instruction...

    I have seen references (in Jellinek, I think) to using alkali in musk tinctures to help them mature. I've never heard of it in ambergris tinctures. Tempted to try a little alkali. Very dilute sodium...
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    Damescenone

    Does anyone have experience with damascenone? I see it called for in a number of formulae and wonder how it compares with the damescones.
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    Re: Fecal notes

    Yes, mine is strong too. I wish I could get the dried gland as that seems more authentic. But I don't have any complaints at this point with what I have.
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    Re: Orange Blossom Absolute Suppliers

    Has anyone tried the J. Steele Orange Blossom absolute? It's more expensive than all the others so of course I had to order it. It hasn't arrived yet.
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    Re: Orange Blossom Absolute Suppliers

    Paul, thanks for the indole tip.
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    Re: Good heliotope

    Sometimes my pop-up blocker won't allow me to read private messages.
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    Re: Good heliotope

    I've sent a note to Vigon asking them for samples of each one before making the big buy. If the natural smells better (and I can't imagine a significant difference) than I'd want that.
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    Re: Good heliotope

    Vigon lists 3 heliotropin including a "natural" heliotropin that's 10 times the cost of the synthetics, about $1400/kg for the natural. But if enough people went in on a kg… If we had 10 people who...
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    Analytic Balances

    Does anyone know what the best brand of analytic balances is? I have some on line but there are many different brands.
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    I haven't had any luck with pink lotus absolute. Even Enfleurage's doesn't smell like much.
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    Re: Fecal notes

    If it's of interest to anyone, I make my own castoreum tincture from beaver gland puree that I buy from a trappers' site. It smells comparable to a sample I bought from ilprofumo.it. I have a...
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    Re: Fecal notes

    I bought some civet paste from an Italian company--profumo.it--and have tinctured it to 2 dilutions. It has a lovely almost irresistible fruity fragrance but is still plenty funky. It's not fecal at...
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    Orange Blossom Absolute Suppliers

    I have been trying to track down the best orange blossom absolute. I had a bottle from Shiva but have since found out (via basenotes) that those are not pure absolutes. I recently bought some from...
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    After spending hundreds of dollars on blue lotus "absolutes" and finding them odorless, I figured I was anosmic to this flower. That was until I smelled the blue lotus from Enfleurage, in Greenwich...
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    Re: Must Have Equipment for your "Lab"

    What do people feel are the best brands? I tend to want something simple but of very high quality.
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    Re: Cannabis in perfumery

    Hi Pear, So it sounds like my tincture may very well turn color but won't loose its "fresh" smell.
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    Re: Gardenia accord

    Who is Poucher? Is there a place I can get his books?
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    Re: Cannabis in perfumery

    I'm retesting the tincture, this time with the rosemary resinoid (ROE). It's only been a week or two and the last time it took about a month for it to turn brown. I'll let everyone know once I've...
  28. Re: I need help with synthetics for some concepts smells!

    I particularly like holy basil. I think it has more estragol (if that's the one I'm thinking of) and it's spicier (eugenol?) than regular basil.
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    Re: Good heliotope

    Does anyone know where to buy heliotropin? I know it's restricted but so are a lot of things and I was hoping that there were people still out there who sold it. I got mine from Vigon, but that was...
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    Re: Must Have Equipment for your "Lab"

    I bought a scale that weighs to the hundredth of a gram but have now realized that that isn't accurate enough for small quantities. So I'm looking at the next step up--scales that measure up to a...
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    I'm unfamiliar with veratraldehyde, but have had some (minimal) experience with heliotropin. I find that as much as a smell, it's almost a texture--like breathing in a surface covered with dust and...
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    Of course, Paul.
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    Re: Drops/mL

    I find that the viscosity of the oil/absolute has a lot to do with it. If I measure out 20 drops of thick oud it's going to be a lot more than a milliliter; conversely, delicate oils seem to form...
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    Re: Weak cedar accord

    I've been searching for andrane but am not having any luck. Any ideas? Thanks.
  35. Re: Need your opinions regarding, Eden Botonical Essential Oils

    They have the best orris butter (15% irone) that I've been able to find.
  36. Sticky: Re: IFRA Standards - Discussion thread (Temporary partial version)

    While I know the IFRA controls most perfume ingredients, what about things like musk ambrette, costus, cade oil, tagettes, etc? Are there other regulations that control these?
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    Re: Weak cedar accord

    Dear Doctor,
    Thanks for your tips. Do you know where andrane and animals can be found? And I'm not sure what you mean by IMHO. Sorry if I'm being obtuse.
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    Re: Handsome, manly bottles?

    If you're just looking for one bottle, try Oleg Cassini's crystal bottles. I was able to get an almost perfect cube-shaped bottle in heavy crystal, for 8 dollars.
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    Re: Agarwood smoke

    Colette describes opium as smelling like burning chocolate. It has a sweet scent when burning (a rather earthy, soil-like, vegetable scent when raw). See the opium entry in my blog jimcooks.com/blog.
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    This may not be relevant, but the accord between heliotropin and orris is divine. I guess it's the central accord in Apres l'Ondée.
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    Weak cedar accord

    I've come across a really lovely cedar accord using a mixture of dihydro ionone beta, vertofix, kephalis, cedryl acetate, cedar (Himalayan), sandalwood, frankincense (a special sweet kind), and...
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    Re: Frankincense - sweet?

    I'm tincturing some frankincense and have come up with a yellow and very sticky liquid without too much aroma. I can imagine it would work as a fixative, but other than that I'm hard pressed as to...
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    Re: Supporting labdanum as base note

    Oh, you're right. I have the resin. Is it of any use? Should I track down the resinoid?
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    Re: Base note

    Natural musk
  45. Replies
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    Re: Supporting labdanum as base note

    I continue to be confused about labdanum. I have cistus labdanum absolute which is virtually solid. I also have labdanum resinoid which smells slightly lemony or herbal but not particularly balsamic...
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    Thanks Chris. I love your philosophy--all the roads of glory lead to the grave.
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    Eew. Scary. I didn't realize they were carcinogenic. I've been working with them rather carelessly. What happened to all those people who used them in years past?
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    Re: Frankincense - sweet?

    I've gone ahead and ordered some. If it's the same stuff I have, then it's a very helpful tip. Thanks.
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    I hope this doesn't seem like a silly or irrelevant question, but what do we mean by "banned?" Does this mean if we use these materials that the police will come and confiscate everything? Or does...
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    Dear Pears,
    I can't really recommend substitutes for the old musks since I use the old musks as they are. I love musk ketone, musk ambrette, and musk xylol for their various effects (say nothing of...
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    Re: Cannabis in perfumery

    Oh, that's a great tip. I didn't realize there were natural anti-oxidants I could use for stabilizing perfume. I'll look for rosemary oleoresin extract. Does it have an odor?
    Thanks,
    Jim
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    Re: Brooklyn Playmate

    Let me know when you come to Brooklyn and we can set something up.
    Jim
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    Re: Brooklyn Playmate

    Hi Semanticnoise,
    Where abouts do you live? I live in Boerum Hill.
    Jim
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    Yes, I use musk ambrette that I bought at a trappers' site. I have a bad habit of using prohibited materials.
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    Thanks Chris. I'll keep this in mind as my heliotropin (and benzaldehyde) reserves dissipate. That's a great tip about oxidizing benzyl alcohol.
  56. Re: How hard is it to get into fragrance creation?

    I save all my experiments in little vials--I have over a thousand now--so that I can go back and smell things with a better trained nose than I had at the time. Some of the stuff I thought was great...
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    Re: Brooklyn Playmate

    Wow, sounds cool.
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    Re: Brooklyn Playmate

    Dear Ion,
    Sorry for taking so long to respond; I get lost tooling around Basenotes. I'd be flattered to smell your perfumes but do keep in mind that I'm not really a perfumer--just a beginner...
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    Re: Cannabis in perfumery

    I made my own tincture which had a lovely fresh cannabis aroma but after about a month it turned brown and lost its fragrance.
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    Re: Making ambergris tincture

    I simply add the chunks of ambergris to alcohol and heat the mixture and watch them dissolve in a matter of an hour or so. Of course one must be careful heating alcohol--I make a bain-marie by...
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    Re: truest ambergris

    I've had luck emulating ambergris by combining ambroxan with a small amount of oak moss.
  62. Re: I Need To Recreate The Smell Of Stale Sex For My Thesis…

    Certain ouds leave me smelling like I've been in bed all day and very busy at that. In general, the cheaper the ouds, the more funky. I have some very cheap ones that when put in a blend leave me...
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    Re: Deer musk grains

    Just a comment. The deer musk grains I've been able to purchase come from deer farm raised in China. These have none of the aroma of the wild deer grains. Just wondering which you have. Wild deer...
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    Yes, the musk ambrette came from a trappers' site, used to attract deer etc.
  65. Re: Fragrance for a man... not woody... ?! I need help,please!

    Castoreum? I found ground beaver glands by going onto a trappers' website. It's a simple matter to tincture them to make a nice strong castoreum. I would think this essential in a leather perfume, no?
  66. Re: Who supplies fragrance companies with their bottles and packaging?

    I have found some simple glass stoppered bottles that I would love to use for my perfumes. The problem, however, is sealing on the stopper so it doesn't snap out in transit. I've thought of dipping...
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    I got my heliotropin from Vergon. Don't they sell it anymore? I have less than an ounce left.
  68. Re: Who supplies fragrance companies with their bottles and packaging?

    I've fallen for a bottle made by Oleg Cassini--it's almost a perfect cube of glass. Unfortunately the stopper is metal instead of glass, but the whole thing is still quite beautiful, if expensive....
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    Re: Frankincense - sweet?

    I have a special frankincense that's very sweet and balsamic unlike every other one that smells lemony, a bit like furniture polish. I've contacted the firm to ask them what's different about their...
  70. Sticky: Re: Which fragrances would people appreciate being split?

    I would love to have a sampling of JAR perfumes.
  71. Thread: Benzoin

    by James Peterson
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    Re: Benzoin

    I'm confused by this whole benzoin thing. I have benzoin Siam and "Onchya Benzoin." What is onchya benzoin and how does it differ from benzoin Siam. I can't find onchya in Arctander.
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    Re: Hedione effects

    Yes, I am anosmic to it, but I thought that even so I would be able to detect if it worked as a fixative or exaltant. Alas...
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    Re: Apres l'Ondée

    Yes, I'm thinking of a little methyl ionone.
  74. Sticky: Re: IFRA Standards - Discussion thread (Temporary partial version)

    I'm a little confused about IFRA. Is it absolutely illegal to use the prohibited substances? Or does it mean that there has to be some kind of warning label? Are the rules different if one is only...
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    Is veratraldehyde better than heliotropin or just different? Or is it a poor substitute? That's terrible if we can't get heliotropin anymore. I have an ounce or so in my reserves but that's it.
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    Re: Apres l'Ondée

    Unfortunately I've only read about vintage Apres l'Ondee but I've been experimenting with heliotropin and orris and have come up with an accord--very lovely, really--of the two in what sounds like it...
  77. Re: Who supplies fragrance companies with their bottles and packaging?

    Thank you. Relief.
  78. Replies
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    Re: Hedione effects

    Hi Justin. I've tried all sorts of combinations using woods and florals with varying percentages of Hedione. I smell them on a test strip and on my wrists. I tried one just today: sans Hedione on the...
  79. Re: Who supplies fragrance companies with their bottles and packaging?

    I bought some bottles from Oleg Cassini which are sold in small amounts. They are, of course, very dear. The one I like is $25. But I have a question. If I market a perfume in what I think is a...
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    Here's a formula I made up for a musk complex. I find it useful in most of my preparations and prefer its aroma to Musk Ravageur.
    All compounds were blended at 20%.
    velvione 13
    cashmeran 3...
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    Re: Hedione effects

    As my desperation about Hedione continues, I tried an experiment. I took a floral/wood scent, divided it in two, put Hedione in one half and the same amount of alcohol in the other and waited 2...
  82. Thread: Civet

    by James Peterson
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    Re: Civet

    I've found that if I combine civet with artificial musks that I get an aroma reminiscent of natural musk. Yum.
  83. Replies
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    Re: Heliotrope accord

    Here's Jellinek's formula (1956) (He actually offers 5, but this is his favorite):

    Heliotropin 500
    Vanillin 50
    Anisaldehyde 50
    Benzaldehyde 3
    Coumarin 20
    Jasmin Abs. 10
    Rose Oil Bulg....
  84. Replies
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    Re: ambrein/ambrox

    According to my reading, there is. Ambrox is the aromatic compound and ambreine is odorless. But don't quote me.
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    Re: osmanthus

    I don't know; I've never heard of that.
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    Re: scent of salt

    What about Calone?
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    Re: Consultant needed

    That sounds fun but very difficult. I think I'd be in over my head.
  88. Replies
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    Re: Oud Perfume

    No, I haven't tried them. I can't tell whether my fragrance just fades really rapidly or whether I'm having olfactory fatigue set in almost right away.
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    Re: Oud Perfume

    Hmm. I'll experiment.
  90. Replies
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    Re: Consultant needed

    Boy, you guys are great. I'll put together some notes and send them to you. I can always call you, Chris, since I have some kind of special deal with overseas calls.
  91. Replies
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    Re: Consultant needed

    Dear pkiler,
    Thank you for your kind offer. Would it perhaps make sense if I sent you some of the formulae to get a general sense of what you think?
  92. Sticky: Re: IFRA Standards - a summary

    Thanks Chris. I'll start boning up on the regs.
  93. Sticky: Re: IFRA Standards - a summary

    Thanks Chris. I obviously need to know a lot more about this. Is it necessary to become an IFRA member? Is it difficult?
  94. Replies
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    Re: Spicy oriental exercise

    Has anyone been able to make the Arctander accord work? What would be the proportions? I'd love to experiment with a basic accord but I'd be more reassured if it also contained aroma chemicals. Or...
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    Consultant needed

    I've been working on a number of perfumes and feel like I'm definitely going in the direction I like. But now I seem at a bit of a standstill, unable to evaluate the fragrances (I've been smelling...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Oud Perfume

    Oh, yes, I forgot to mention castoreum. I've been using it in my experiments and am finding it very useful. I make my own castoreum tincture out of beaver glands which makes it somewhat hard to...
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    Oud Perfume

    I have been trying to make a perfume that captures the complexity and mystery of oud without, of course, being as expensive as oud itself. I started out by making a base with sandalwood, cedar,...
  98. Sticky: Re: IFRA Standards - a summary

    Hi Chris,
    Thanks for the enormous amount of information. My question is this: What if one ignores the regulations and just puts a disclaimer on the bottle? Explain how they may cause a rash or...
  99. Replies
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    Re: Deer musk pods

    Before I was aware of the ecological implications, I ordered some musks from Agarscents. They are among the most lovely things I have ever smelled and remind me of the perfumes my mother used to wear...
  100. Replies
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    Re: How long do essential oils last?

    I bought a whole bunch of essential oils and absolutes about 8 months ago and have found that the tuberose and narcissus de montagnes (both of which are (or were) gorgeous) have completely fallen...
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