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    Re: Coumarin, A Carcinogen?

    IMHO, with most such situations, the carcinogenic aspect has to do with dosage and exposure and quantity.

    There are multiple things in fresh fruit and veggies that are carcinogens. The issue is...
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    Re: Formula percentages

    No. Typically that would mean 65% of the concentrate by weight. To convert weight and volume to each other you need to know the specific gravity of the material, which is expressed as a comparison to...
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    Re: Storing Concentrate

    For storing concentrate or perfume I used large glass jugs, a gallon or more (4 liter) capacity, which were intended for storing chemicals and were professionally cleaned to be reused. I them cleaned...
  4. Re: Anyone ever used Tobacco Absolute from Perfumer's Apprentice? I have a question.

    If you use tobacco in a perfume at, say, 1%, and nicotine is 1% of the tobacco (just a guess based on the amount in tobacco, but not knowing about the abs), and the concentrate is 15% of the finished...
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    Re: Musk deer GC/MS

    Here's a little bit, from:

    http://flu.mn/journal/articleinfo.php?artID=78

    "The main component of musk deer is muscone. The chemical structure of muscone is L-3 methylcyclophentadecanon. The...
  6. Re: What notes do you get from Johnson's Baby Oil?

    There is also a muskrat note, which can relate to a combo of geranium (zdravets, in particular) and exaltone, if not actual muskrat musk.
  7. Re: Newb sharing newfound knowledge, misses, and new challenges

    Yep, Aromachemicals. Then you have control. Only then. Essential oils are also wonderful. Fragrance oils are useless for where you want to go, I think. They are fun for absolute beginners, but by...
  8. Re: Newb sharing newfound knowledge, misses, and new challenges

    Benzoin is extremely versatile. There is almost no fragrance where you can't add a touch of it, if you wanted to. It is a typical ingredient of amber, and is also used as a general fixative that...
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    Re: Communicating dark colors

    If you want to replicate a study you have to contact the authors. There is almost always a much, much more detailed version of the published paper, as journals often just want easily readable...
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    Re: Pushing up Basil abs.

    That might be your best bet. When researching to help you, I found myself a bit stuck, and concluded you needed to answer some questions for yourself first. That's why I didn't post more specific...
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    Re: Pushing up Basil abs.

    Myrcene is also in basil and has an interesting intoxicant relevence to cannabis.

    As regards the OP, you might try googling "basil gcms goodscents" as that will provide you goodscent sheets on...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Thought someone might be interested in this from reference files.

    Sandalwood substitute formula:

    1.timberol – 6.83% w/w
    2. bacdanol -19.7%
    3. sandal mysore core – 19.43
    4. ebanol – 5.92 ...
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    Re: Question about PA Key Accords

    Ditto on Bill's suggestion. Look at every formula and data page to get a reasonable range. Then look at the purpose and role of the ingredient
    in the example formulae and compare that to your...
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    Re: Question about PA Key Accords

    I thought this interesting suggestion worth highlighting. I had never thought of the idea of using, essentially, a "dummy" accord, a place holder, the purpose of which is to get you nearer to the...
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    Re: Question about PA Key Accords

    Point of definition:

    "Base" has two meanings in this context. A perfume "base" is an accord that is useful as a basis for a perfume or a specific perfume note.

    That is different from a "base...
  16. Thread: Honey note

    by DrSmellThis
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    Re: Honey note

    Try Oshadi's honey absolute, as that was the standard for me a few years back, and I never had difficulty with the material as others have reported. I can't imagine a honey accord without at least a...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    No, the conclusion was that results are inconclusive due to that possible "confounding variable", and that further research is needed. In other words, the conclusion was very much like any other...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    It's not disingenuous in the slightest, as you insist on defining aromatherapy to exclude the camphor effect, while no one in aromatherapy, the actual field of interest, defines it that way (what...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I disagree. No offense, and with all due respect, you are neglecting the research by stating that, and dimissing my previous post out of hand. This strikes me as unnecessarily contentious, as does...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I just found at least a half dozen studies showing smell based aromatherapy results, just doing a superficial google search. took me five minutes. But I am taking family to dinner instead of posting...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    No, you continue to insist on misquoting me, as a matter of fact. Show me where I said the phrase "scientific proof". What you are literally doing is attributing sloppy, unscientific language to me,...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    David, no offense intended, but you ignored the above post in which I reminded you that science never proves anything and twice misrepresented me as saying it does. You also twisted my definition of...
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    Re: Question about PA Key Accords

    None of those are complete perfumes. And yes, they can be mixed. They are mostly monothematic, and lack some perfume structure, such as the musk notes, to a large extent. They also tend to be...
  24. Re: Inducing Temporary Selective Odor Fatigue (ITSOF)

    Well, in research for a perfume, when analyzing a smell of importance, I will sniff it in stages, taking notes each time. That's basically the same thing, informally, if I understand you correctly....
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Yes. But it is also good to keep in mind that science is the servant of people, and people are not the servant of science. If for good reasons the scientific findings have not yet accumulated, people...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I just think people should read the research. Don't skim a few studies, impatient to confirm some conclusion one way or the other. Rather keep an open mind and read over time the studies as they come...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    There are several periodical professional journals, and many studies on Pub Med. Aromatherapy research is young, but it's out there. Have you looked?

    I had a longer post that was deleted when the...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Nice articulate post by David above Both naturals and synthetics have their benefits, and I would just advocate to learn to appreciate all of it. I want to develop the same appreciation for...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Any number of exotic flowers.

    Also opium is a possible note. But much of what I'm doing is furthering a stereotype, and I don't really like to do that
  30. Re: Clarification on cinnamon aromachemicals?

    The main insight I've had so far, and it's not much of an insight, is that you can use more cinnamon in a fragrance than you think. I think you can use enough to get a supportive note, anyway. But...
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    Re: Green Tea Accord

    I have some "white tea" hand soap from Krogers that smells NOTHING like any kind of tea. It's just like any other vanilla musk hand soap. "Tea" is just a cute marketing word they use, apparently. I'm...
  32. Re: Need Help with Solubility for Helional/Methyl Anthranilate Schiff Base

    This is a good example of the kind of thing that makes perfuming difficult. You can't just get ingredients and mix them. You have to struggle with solubility problems, and with things not being as...
  33. Re: Ethanol + Hedione + Iso E ? Where to start...?

    In some fragrances, the iso-e is more. In some, the hedione is more. It depends on what kind of scent you want.

    I would go on the Perfumers Apprentice website and learn the Carles method. Use that...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I do think you've articulated an important aspect of all of it, Nymphaea. And you articulate it well.

    I think there are other benefits of naturals, for example, having to do with the fact that...
  35. Re: Disappointment with mixing fo, eo, and aroma chemicals

    Perfumery is an art like music, and it is also somewhat of an applied science. That means there is a lot of knowledge that goes into it. There is also a lot of experience and time.

    The original...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    :evil: Hey Mumsy, here's an idea:

    1/4 millifleurs
    1/4 hedione
    1/4 iso-e super
    1/4 galaxolide
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    How much of an egomaniac douche do you have to be to quote yourself, and further, to bump a thread in which you posted last?

    Anyhow, another story. Last year, I showed appreciation to a friend by...
  38. Re: Turning a basic idea into a full fragrance....

    Yes, but the wookies are extremely embarassed by this process, and will hold their feelings against you.
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    Re: Hercolyn D replacement?

    It sounds like a generic balsamic material, so replace it with one of those... You should be able to smell your accord and imagine whether a mild balsamic smell would benefit it.

    You're lucky I...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I don't think it's so much freedom, for me anyway, but rather people telling you you CAN'T do it. So then you can prove them wrong.

    All I know is, if I was able to sell a perfume consistently over...
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    Re: Glucam P-20

    Maybe your best bet (for one thing to do, anyway) is prefixation of your perfume alcohol. P-20 is now used to prefix. So is benzoin. So is civet. Etc, etc. The best prefixant matches one's perfume....
  42. Re: Turning a basic idea into a full fragrance....

    All I can say is good start. It's a good, interesting accord.

    You have amber, floral, and spice aspects. You need to think of these aspects and where you want to go with them. Familiarize...
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    Re: Free Fragrance Composition Software

    Thanks, wood and tobacco. Looks a bit too sophisticated for me at the moment. But I will look at it in more depth.
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    Re: Free Fragrance Composition Software

    I tried the PW software and didn't find it was easy enough to use. Something has to be better. I downloaded Chris', but have not tried it yet. If Chris did it, it is probably good, though. :)

    Also...
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    Re: Ylang Ylang accord help

    PA has a nice ylang accord. That's my current "go-to". You can find it in 20 seconds. But if I get around to studying that one more, I will have lots of examples like Paul.
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    This doesn't apply to you at present, but I intend to employ synthetics to create "space" to counter the over complexity. So the key is to make a precise blend of naturals, that yes, will be too...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Dovetailing on Mumsy here.

    No matter the complexity, I do believe that in any art the most important thing is to have one idea, such that everything hangs together as one thing. If you look at a...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I think dill is like that. It has more value than just the pickle note, similar to celery seed, I think. So you have to get around the pickle note somehow.
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Here's how I'm handling my current composition, which is quite complex.

    I've separated the formula into base, heart, top, and "core".

    "Core" is a subset of the base. It contains the lion's...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Right, thanks. I just need enough to send samples out. Can't expect them to buy asnomically. :tongue:
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Makes sense.
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Good issues to raise, and I have wondered about those things too. I am persojnally struggleing with the amount of planning I have to do to make a fragrance. I can't just order the materials and go. I...
  53. Thread: Scales

    by DrSmellThis
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    Re: Scales

    The newer one probably has it too, but I'd check.
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I've also had it happen many times where something bad stayed bad over the years. But on occasion, one will take a turn for the better. Sometimes you didn't do as badly as you think.
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I don't know. Some things can go rancid or off in a perfume too, if they are too old. So I think it is just something to be aware of, depending on your ingredients. Some materials keep getting better...
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    Small note on natural perfumes

    Now this is no great insight, if true. Maybe everybody already thinks it, or maybe nobody. But if I dont post this before the wine wears off it will be quickly forgotten. :)

    But just quickly,...
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    Re: Fixateur 505/Grisambrol...

    It's hard for me to pay exorbitant prices for something when I can't know what's in it. If I'm making an amber accord, I can guarantee a lot of what is in 505 is already in my accord anyway. There...
  58. Thread: Scales

    by DrSmellThis
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    Re: Scales

    The one I posted about (and own) can be set not to nod off. It has most other such features that are useful to perfumers as well.
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    Re: Formulas For Success

    Fun post.

    I'm the closest to 4, except instead of perfecting a trend, I'm trying to "perfect" (I said trying, my ego isn't that big!) an old idea that I don't think has been done well yet. So...
  60. Re: Getting smell of an incense into a perfume?

    Let incense burn under an upside down glass pitcher. When the inside is black, use alcohol to get the smell out. I believe jsparla describes the technique on his site, and it was also described here....
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    Re: IFRA-safe wormwood equivalent?

    If you drink a bunch of it in absinthe or whatever, then yes it can be dangerous. But wormwood is used in nutritional treatments for parasites, taken in capsule form. It's about the quantity...
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    Re: Reformulation later?

    Honestly, my very first attempts at making fragrances were combining pre-existing fragrance oils and bases. I ended up with immediately wearable scents, but learned nothing. I did make a few nice...
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    Re: Powerful Arabian oud note

    Real oud is very powerful. It is one of the most expensive substances in perfuming, but I used the real stuff in my last woody perfume. A little goes a long way, so that makes it cheaper. Just a hint...
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    Re: Very simple accords?

    PerfumersApprentice and the GoodScents Co. both have demo formulae on their sites. You can find some in the available books too. Someone above mentioned jsparla's site.

    Another good thing is to...
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    Re: Meyer Lemon EO Cold Pressed

    No Paul I had never heard of a Meyer lemon. I've just always used italian cp. It's good to learn, though.
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    Re: Can't find Poucher's book online

    My apologies for misremembering and thanks for the correction. I do remember now you said onion oil, not DMS.
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    Re: Meyer Lemon EO Cold Pressed

    How does it compare to Italian, cp?
  68. Re: What do you seek to convey in a sandalwood note ?

    All I can tell you is that my experience of sandalwood differs from written accounts online. I have to assume you would have your own ideas as well. So the only thing to do is get a few different...
  69. Thread: vials case

    by DrSmellThis
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    Re: vials case

    Sorry, folks. The case is in storage, as I had to abandon my lab for a sudden move.

    It was fake leather folding box, tablet size, one set of hinges, with a brass clap holding it together. Lining...
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    Re: Newbie Question ..making scents

    Keep in touch with us on your progress, so we can make sure you are still headed in a productive direction at various points...
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    Re: Labdanum resinoid and Elemi gum

    I just heated it in a microwave to liquify it, and then mixed it with ethanol at 50%. But David is the one to listen to if you have the materials he suggests.
  72. Thread: vials case

    by DrSmellThis
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    Re: vials case

    I use a small chemical demonstration case, with removable slats for different size bottles. I made my own slats. It's like a mini briefcase, notebook sized, and I found it used at a scientific...
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    Re: Help needed for a Woody Male ;)

    Excellent advice, IMHO. This kind of technique works for a lot of situations to test a material of interest. You get a general idea of the effect a material will have on your other things. I do this...
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    Re: Can't find Poucher's book online

    David likes a trace of dimethyl sulfide in strawberry, IIRC.
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Yes, I've seen many references online where they are supposed to be equal, but then I saw the actual formula and they weren't really that close to equal. Sorry I don't have a reference. But the...
  76. Re: First Post - Questions regarding tenacity, vapor pressure, and max use %

    One thing to add. People ask where they can learn perfumery. I know, for me, I read and smelled anything I could find, and just practiced. The important thing was just to keep learning every day.
    ...
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    Re: rectified cade or birch?

    My impression was that things called "birch oil" or something similar are almost never birch tar, but that's just my personal experience.
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Too lazy to look, but the proportions aren't that hard to find online. Google it. They aren't anywhere near equal, though.
  79. Re: First Post - Questions regarding tenacity, vapor pressure, and max use %

    That, and perhaps, "what is your favorite one-note vanilla perfume?"
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    Re: Help needed for a Woody Male ;)

    Just my opinion, but I'd start by reducing the lavender, nutmeg, cedar, and vetiver. All these are strong. I agree with others that you then can add back notes per your whims with synthetics. And...
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    Re: Rectified Cade or Birch

    So would the fix then be GC-MSing it yourself? Or do they provide some other assurance?
  82. Re: newbie, how to make scent using FCO, EO and maybe FO, recipe

    As far as essential oils, I always recommend the Lawless book, just in terms of materials knowledge. I spent many the hour with it.
  83. Replies
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    Re: Identity help, Please...

    Glad to see the mystery has been solved.
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    Re: EO dilution is cloudy

    When I made a juniper perfume I did have solubility problems. But those cleared up with enough alcohol content. In my case, water was the culprit.
  85. Re: newbie, how to make scent using FCO, EO and maybe FO, recipe

    I'm the same way about creativity and math. I've taken a lot of sophisticated math coursework, but still loathe long division, ha ha.

    I think the only way to use your strong creativity is to smell...
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    Re: Iso E Super Price...?

    It's weird calculating materials cost, isn't it? Cedramber is obscenly cheap by the drum. Such a tease! Makes me want to expand my garage to start buying drums, and end up on a reality show about...
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    Re: Onion and/or garlic

    Thanks, David.
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    Re: Synth birch tar

    Thuja is pretty weird. Medicinal.

    So no atlas or Himalayan? Seems like pros would like those, because they are less complex to my nose (maybe not a GC-MS).

    But I never thought of using thuja...
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    Re: Alpha irone

    I wonder how many are using it to even reply. I plan on it, but have not tried it. There are times when natural orris is not called for.

    One option is to order some from Hermitage to compare.
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    Re: Synth birch tar

    I wonder if it's considered generally usable.
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    Re: Onion and/or garlic

    In the process of learning about the sulfuric notes. Sulfurol is often used, as is dimethyl sulfide, as David says.
    The notes seem to be used for almost anythihg, and the uses seem to overlap.
    ...
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    Re: Corpse Flower Bloom

    Fascinating. Looking into that flower was like a glimpse of Hell, ;) Incredibly gothic. The inside looks like flesh. Very mythic. Little shop of horrors.

    Haven't googled it yet, but I'm guessing...
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    Re: Negative emotions scents

    Are you thinking of shangrilide, or do you like them both similarly?
  94. Re: Out with it.. what is the worst blend you have ever made?

    One dimension to explore is eugenol-related. Cardamom by itself in that context -- aldehyde issues aside -- as a solo spice, might tend to be a little cloying, and the eugenol (and/or similar) could...
  95. Re: A list of fragrance formulas i would like to see

    If I wanted to recreate any of those scents, and I was going to be selling the result, I would get a cheap GC-MS from PA, if it wasn't online for free, ha ha. It would instantly help focus you in the...
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    Re: Identity help, Please...

    Ha ha. I thought the same thing. Then I Wiki'ed it and they were saying five petals, so I thought, "Well, maybe both can be true?" I was willingly suspending my belief that nature is almost never...
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    Re: Identity help, Please...

    Immediate guess was dogwood, but I have nothing to back that up, and I am probably wrong.
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    Re: Iso Gamma Super

    France? Ha ha.

    I don't know. Some others here might well know. I'm just getting timbersilk and iso-e super. I don't think anyone complained when iso-e super replaced iso-e.
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    Re: Safe way to filter fragrance.

    I like that idea, and was unfamiliar with it. I didn't even know "cotton wool" existed. I thought something was either cotton or wool! :)
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    Re: Iso Gamma Super

    I've seen multiple formulae where the perfumer mixed timbersilk with old iso-e (not "super"). Apparently the gamma isomer is not the only desirable element, but some people also like the "off"...
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