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  1. Replies
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    Re: Slumberhouse Discussion

    I have a somewhat similar experience. I enjoy Kiste and Baque quite a bit, and find Grev has some interesting elements, but Jeke, Norne, Pear + Olive, Sadanne, Sixes & Sevens, etc have been rather...
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    Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    Thank you for this lovely review! I can see why some might struggle with the "mosquito repellent" association. I'm fortunately not bothered by its dry citric/herbal aspect, but it's indeed fairly...
  3. Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    I remember that Inverno Russo has Hinan agarwood. Are there other types of Chinese oud?
  4. Re: Sex and the Sea Neroli by Francesca Bianchi

    I agree with Diamondflame that a Francesca Bianchi fragrance thread would be lovely! :D I've been testing the latest two fragrances for a while, and here are my thoughts about them:

    Among these...
  5. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Personally speaking, I find the deer musk hard to discern in Musk Khabib. It does add a certain sweet musky feeling to the ylang-vetiver-spice combination, but it's only perceptible to me when I...
  6. Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    I've been testing the 2 versions of Ottoman Empire and Siberian Musk separately and side by side for a while, and I too find them pretty similar between Part 1 & 2, especially once they dry down.
    ...
  7. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I recently tried April Aromatics Tempted Muse. Interestingly, it reminds me of the minty, almost medicinal ylang and fresh spicy cardamom in Musk Khabib and the vanilla tropical floral dry down of...
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    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    I agree with your point about Lutens taking a new direction to experiment with minimalism and cleanliness during the last decade, although with mixed results in my opinion. I think it's partly...
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    Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Thank you for this interesting read! Some of the information in the linked threads are enlightening. I very much agree that Crêpe de Chine is also a close descendant. Interestingly, the addition of...
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    Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Thank you grayspoole for taking time with the reply! Lily of the valley in perfumery is such an interesting topic! I'll try to be more concise this time so as not to stray the thread too much from...
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    Re: January Scent Projects

    I didn't have any issue with my past orders from JSP. They usually turn up in the expected timeframe for me (between 1 and 2 weeks to France). John sometimes has to be away to fullfill his writing...
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    Re: Sultan Pasha's Fragrances

    Thank you for this series of eloquent and evocative reviews! It was a truly lovely read! I agree with you that many of his oriental compositions with oud, rose, incense, tobacco, etc, are very...
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    Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    I quite enjoy Oriza's Muguet Fleuri. It's a relatively realistic and by the numbers lily of the valley with sharp sappy green facet. Another similar one I can think of is Annick Goutal Le Muguet,...
  14. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I find the chocolate-caramel aspect of oud in Oud Monarch, as well as its overall sweetness, fairly reminiscent of those elements in Russia Oud, although I agree that Russian Oud is much more...
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    Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    It's always such a pleasure reading your post, grayspoole! Now you've mentioned it, I realise that I indeed had a specific packaging of Miss Balmain in my mind to compare with Imprévu. It's the...
  16. Re: Has IFRA banned using natural Oud in perfume?

    Tauer L'Oudh +1
    Dusita Oudh Infini
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    Re: Geosmin heavy fragrances?

    I also get the geosmine smell in Smell Bent February and Euphorium Butterfly.
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    Re: January Scent Projects

    I don't find Smolderose dominated by green elements. It's just that in comparison to the oil version, I find the herbal facet of rose and geranium in perfume version is more easily perceivable. If...
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    Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    What a wonderful read! Thank you grayspoole and everyone contributing to this very interesting and informative thread! I'm drooling over grayspoole's bottle of Muse and review, especially that...
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    Re: Sultan Pasha's Fragrances

    Among Sultan Pasha's offerings, I think the overall herbal and mossy Etude en Fougère can work pretty well for summer time, as well as Le Rayon Vert which is more green floral, thus possibily being...
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    Re: January Scent Projects

    I find the perfume of Smolderose noticeably greener and more herbal than the oil, more like geranium than the honeyed powdery rose in oil. There is also subtle ambery saltiness missing in the oil....
  22. Re: Reformulated Fragrances That Are Most Different From Their Vintage Counterparts

    I agree that the 2013 version of PPH has noticeable differences from the original, with much less the oriental warmth and more the bright herbal tarragon and mossy patchouli. Overall I consider it a...
  23. Re: Your All Time Top 20 Vintage Wardrobe

    I'd love get my hands on these bottles when they were first released (in alphabetical order by brand):


    Balmain Jolie Madame
    Balmain Miss Balmain
    Caron Le Narcisse Noir
    Coty Chypre
    Coty...
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    Re: January Scent Projects

    I actually find these names pretty cool, but it's definitely a pain when I need to spell them... :P

    I'd describe Dinudisit as a marine gourmand, because the most prominent notes are an iodine note...
  25. Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Bold part + "gorgeous, slightly cheesy oud scent here" like you said, it's wonderful! <3
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    Re: NEW Hiram Green Lustre

    I recently got my sample too, and my first impression is very similar to yellowtone's evoctive, eloquent review: "definitely a rose soliflore", "fresh, natural rose that is dense and voluptuous...
  27. Re: Hiram Green Shangri La being discontinued???

    The reason of Shangri La's discontinuation is indeed related to the latest EU regulations, confirmed in Hiram Green's comment in this post:

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BvT-KyyhxcP/
  28. Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Thank you Tosef! Before getting my hands on the samples of the 3rd collection, I thought Russian Oud would be among my favourites as I usually enjoy the chocolate nuance of oud, but the caramel...
  29. Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Looks fun! :D I'll give a shot too, and use the (x) denotation meaning not owning it introduced by Tosef. Most ALD perfumes are pretty close among them in terms of my personal enjoyment and...
  30. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    You're welcome. I'd love to read your thoughts on the 3rd series when you're ready to share them. I didn't know that Oud Maximus is also a tribute to his son. It's such a sweet and loving gesture!
  31. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Personally, I much prefer Oud Maximus to Oud Monarch. What I enjoy and appreciate the most in Oud Maximus is the goat cheese-like fermented "skankiness" of oud and a enveloping animalic musky warmth....
  32. Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    They're not exactly the same, but I find EO No.1 (in parfum concentration) from Ensar Oud has a similar kaleidoscopic dynamics between mossy chypre rose and leathery oud.
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    Re: Sultan Pasha's Fragrances

    I'm a fan of Encens Chypre too! It's almost like Mitsouko with a beautiful incense twist to me. I totally didn't expect this combination to work this well.
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    Re: Sultan Pasha's Fragrances

    Thank you Jack Hunter for these lovely reviews! I didn't think of ordering Sultan Pasha's samples any time soon, as I'd tried most of them except for the latest ones that you reviewed. Now I'm...
  35. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I only know Ottoman Empire I and haven't tried OE II yet. Assuming that OE I & II are extremely similar, I personally don't perceive any particular similarities between Ottoman Empire and Amber...
  36. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I find the mossy floral dry down of Walimah feels like a more abstract version of the first half of Vétiver Nocturne. However, VN has a more prominent sandalwood in the base and has much less of the...
  37. Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Is Tabac Tabou the one from Parfum d'Empire? I love this one! Warm and very sensual narcissus & hay.
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    Re: Recommended reading?

    Since you speak French, I definitely agree with cacio that Annick Le Guérer’s Le Parfum : Des origines à nos jours is worth a read, especially the chapters that provide a good summary of the history...
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    Re: Sultan Pasha's Fragrances

    I agree with wildrnesxperienc that they’re not really similar, although both are very beautiful perfumes. I think the rose note in both might feel somewhat similar as both are very silky and later on...
  40. Re: Fresh, modern, breezy, soft sandalwood

    I recently tried Santal Superbe (in perfume oil version) from JD Jeffrey Dame and found it perfectly breezy, modern and fresh too. The sandalwood base is softly nutty and milky. The slightly metallic...
  41. Re: Help to find! Fragrance for mom (60+ age)

    Maybe YSL Rive Gauche for a lighter green rose chypre than Knowing?

    Givenchy III, Chanel Cristalle and YSL Y are also very lovely for warmer weather.
  42. Re: Recommendations for under £70, for someone who likes Lutens

    For amber, I'd like to suggest:

    - Annayake - Miyako: It can be found on eBay at a quite affordable price sometimes. To my nose, it's like midway between Ambre Sultan and Ambre Fétiche, attaining...
  43. Re: What houses are creating scents like the old days?

    I agree with Areej Le Doré, Bortnikoff, Sultan Pasha, Oriza L. Legrand and some from Roja Dove.

    I'd also like to add:

    - Bogue
    - Vero Profumo
    - Papillon Artisan Perfumes (particularly Dryad &...
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    Re: Recommended reading?

    I love Nez magazine which is published bi-annually (April & September). Each issue, they discuss a topic such as the gender of a perfume, synthetic vs natural, clean vs dirty, animalic in perfumes...
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    Re: I love heliotrope

    I was amazed the first time I smelt heliotrope. It really does smell like a vanilla-almond pastry, wow! I'd have liked to have some in my little garden on the balcony, but the climate where I live...
  46. Re: Vintage Fruity Chypres-Your Favorites, Your Thoughts

    The bottle I got is like the one in the photo, which I think is a vintage version. I haven't tried the current version, though.

    I think the similarity of L de Lubin and Cristalle to Diorella is...
  47. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    The frangipani and the tropical vanilla/coconut/sandalwood-like creaminess in Amber Cologne definitely dominate on my skin. The citrus are adjacent to the tropical floral, while the ambergris is more...
  48. Re: Marina Barcenilla long break & half price sale

    I love this one! India is also a very lovely spicy oriental floral.
  49. Marina Barcenilla long break & half price sale

    I received a newsletter from Marina Barcenilla informing that she's taking a long break and possibly stops making perfumes altogether due to personal circumstances. As a result, the remaining stock...
  50. Re: Vintage Fruity Chypres-Your Favorites, Your Thoughts

    Resurrecting this thread as I recently got to smell L de Lubin in its EDT concentration, and I find quite similar to the ripe melon-jasmine/woody mossy patchouli of Diorella. The major difference...
  51. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    I agree with Juxtapozbliss about L'Heure Exquise. Bonheur and Mysterious Oud also have little floral effect to my nose.
  52. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Thanks thrilledchilled & Diamondflame for the kind words!



    Thanks for the info! Ah that's too bad. :(
  53. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Here are my thoughts on the 3rd collection of Bornikoff after a few wears:

    - Musk Khabib: Despite its name, it's not at all a musky perfume à la Siberian Musk/Russian Musk/EO No.2 to my nose. The...
  54. Re: Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

    Among the 2nd series, Vétiver Nocturne strikes me as unexpectedly heavily floral considering its name, and I regard its floralcy as between Walimah Parfum (more floral) and Walimah attar (less...
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    Re: NEW: Marlou - D'Ambiguite !

    I haven't tried the latest Poudextase. Between 50ml d'Ambiguïté and L'Animal Sauvage, Ambiguïté is much more animalic and especially dirty with a heavy dose of cumin and a waxy, even greasy texture,...
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    Re: Starting out

    For a woody spicy rose relatively close to Rose 31, I'd suggest:

    - Penhaligon's Much Ado About The Duke overall brighter, with a bit more rose and slightly less woody.
    - Frapin Nevermore much...
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    Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Thank you Benz3ne for sharing your expriences with these perfumes! I share your enthusiam in Zibeline, what a beauty it is! I especially love its buttery, even fatty musk characteristics, like a...
  58. Re: Stuck on Spring Florals - Recommendations to try?

    It's my pleasure. Hope you'll have fun exploring.! :)
  59. Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    The late dry down of Koh-i-Noor and Siberian Musk somehow remind me of each other, as at this stage, both are this suave, slightly honeyed musky skin scent with traces of moss and white floral....
  60. Re: Vintage fragrances you would love to come across (designer).

    Fath Iris Gris and Canasta
    Rochas Mystère
    Germaine Monteil Secret Royal
  61. Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    I concur with Diamondflame about their different musk charateristics. Their accompanying notes are also very different. Inverno Russo leans towards an oriental floral with its rose, while Siberian...
  62. Re: Stuck on Spring Florals - Recommendations to try?

    I'd like to add the following options below the awesome suggestions of fellow BNers:

    For floral lavender, maybe you can try Penhaligon's Lavandula and Chanel Jersey (I only tried the previous EDT...
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    Re: Best summer incense ?

    CDG Kyoto
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    Re: DODO by Zoologist

    I find Dodo overall quite abstract.

    There are indeed some green elements especially in the opening, but not the usual sappy, fresh type, rather it feels less sharp, more robuste and less bright,...
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    Re: Chameleon by Zoologist

    I was wearing a sample of Chameleon the other day, and it strikes me as quite similar to Anatole Lebreton Cornaline, especially during its middle phase where a fruity yet creamy ylang and a...
  66. Re: Sel Marin is great but I gotta have more BRINE.

    Profumum Roma - Acqua di Sale +1
    Bruno Fazzolari Unsettled

    Imaginary Author Every Storm A Serenade also has a salty marine smell in the opening, but the dry down really smell like dominated by...
  67. Re: real ambergris containing fragrances today?

    Strangelove Silent The Sea also uses real ambergris I believe, and its effect is very noticeable, on par with Atlantic Ambergris and Baikal Gris.
  68. Re: The Rising Phoenix Perfumery Sample Impressions Thread

    There's a complementary sample labelled as "2018 Crocodile" among my last order. I asked JK what it was, as I couldn't find the corresponding Etsy page. He told me that it's a buoya oil he distilled....
  69. Re: The Rising Phoenix Perfumery Sample Impressions Thread

    I only smelt the two T'aif rose offerings besides Musk Rose. If you enjoy the T'aif Rose Otto, then Attar is probably a safe option. I don't know if he used the same T'aif Rose Otto to compose the...
  70. Re: AbdesSalaam Attar / La Via del Profumo - official fragrance discussion thread

    I was wearing Ihram last night. What a prismatic pine and cedar! The white flour-y, tender heart of cedar, as well as its resinous fruity undertone, are such a sensual base, while the minty/menthol...
  71. Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Personally I'm very happy with Areej's attempt to recreate Ottoman Empire, and I look forward to smelling this new version/batch if samples will be available. I own the original Ottoman Empire, but...
  72. Re: Please pair a fragrance with this picture

    Zoologist Bat makes me think of a moist cave but with some ripe tropical fruits too.
  73. Re: 70's and 80's Chronological Sync - 10 Fragrances in 10 Days

    I was wearing Bel Ami yesterday. I got a quite noticeable cumin with the butch IBQ leather, as well as a waxy, rooty orris. There's something ripe or even rotten, kind of greasy, but not really sour....
  74. Re: The Rising Phoenix Perfumery Sample Impressions Thread

    While I perceive saffron in Malik Al Taif, I detect none in Taif Rose Attar. Apparently, there are only Taif rose, Cambodian oud, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris and musk in it according to the...
  75. Re: The Rising Phoenix Perfumery Sample Impressions Thread

    T'aif Rose Otto 2018

    When it's first applied, I got a very sweet honeyed rose. But it soon becomes rather green and slightly metallic, and very citrusy yet herbal, very much like how citronella...
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    Re: Fragrances in novelty bottles

    The bottle I meant to describe is Ame Toscane from ID Parfums.
  77. Re: Fresh, modern, breezy, soft sandalwood

    - Le Cercle des Parfumeurs Créateurs - Lime Absolue: Tart lime opening with a bit of milky fig, then a milky sandalwood dry down freshened up by a soft vetiver.
    - Serge Lutens Santal Blanc: The...
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    Re: Fragrances in novelty bottles

    Lucien Lelong has Plume bottles shaped like a feather
    Van Cleef & Arpels Féerie with a fairy on a branch

    There is a bottle that is shaped like a woman looked from her back, but I don't remember...
  79. Re: Ok can someone better explain to me Fougere and Chypre?

    Thank you for the explaination. I find separating families based on notes present and on overall perception very helpful in understanding the different and often contradictory classifications.
  80. Re: Some hot weather woods reccomendations

    I find the rose and honey in Burvuvu are more like peripheral notes to add depth and dimension to the central cedar, but it does appear less strictly woody and less streamlined than most CDG than you...
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    Re: Best Saffron Scent

    +1

    I also enjoy Technique Indiscrète Safran Nobile which is more intense, more bitter and less creamy than Safran Troublant.
  82. Re: 70's and 80's Chronological Sync - 10 Fragrances in 10 Days

    Wearing Antaeus today. There's that lovely mossy leather chypre undertone too, but much more subdued than in Dior Jules. The main elements in Antaeus is a silky, sandalwood-like milkiness, a leathery...
  83. Re: What are the all-time great marine fragrances?

    I too agree that Heeley Sel Marin is among the best and worth investigating. It's slightly sweet with a subtle powdery texture besides the primary algae-like salty marine aspect, which I find evokes...
  84. Re: What are the best niche violet fragrances

    Here are a few of my favourite violet perfumes:

    Violet soliflore:
    - Annick Goutal La Violette softly sweet violet with the characteristic herbal spicy undertone of Violette de Toulouse flower...
  85. Re: 70's and 80's Chronological Sync - 10 Fragrances in 10 Days

    Wearing Jules today from a dark brown miniature. Love the mossy leather chypre core of the 70/80s! The addition of slightly sour and resinous fir balsam makes it warmer than most leather chypre...
  86. Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Bonheur is well composed in my opinion. Even though the ambergris does not stand out as much as in Atlantic Ambergris and Baikal Gris, it's not too difficult to pick out either. They share the...
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    Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Aha, indeed! :D
  88. Replies
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    Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    I didn't know about its inclusion of ambergris either, until I read Claire Vukcevic's article on basenotes:

    http://www.basenotes.net/features/3377-ambergris-myths-truths-and-half-truths

    Whether...
  89. Replies
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    Re: Diffuse question - where to begin?

    Thank you for sharing your beautifully-worded thoughts on these lovely perfumes! I'm especially intrigued by the combination of ambergris-sandalwood tincture with Mitsouko's base. It sounds...
  90. Re: Similar to un jardin en mediteranee

    I find Laurent Mazzone (LM Parfums) Vol d'Hirondelle a fresher, more citrusy and less sweet version of Un Jardin en Méditerranée.
  91. Re: Your favourite mainstream/designer perfumes released within the last 5 (or so) years?

    I love the following enough to want to purchase them:
    - Molinard Habanita La Cologne balsamic Habanita with a sparkling, fresh chypre spin.
    - Cartier La Panthère a modern fruity chypre without...
  92. Re: Vintage Arpege: To buy or not to buy?

    I agree with everyone here that vintage Arpège is relatively low-priced. I have several rectagular bottles with silver (approx. 1930-40s), golden (approx. 1950-60s) and black (approx. 1970-80s)...
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    Re: January Scent Projects

    I agree with thrilledchilled that it's one of the best cedar that I've tried. It's also the most accessible one from JSP in my opinion.
  94. Re: 70's and 80's Chronological Sync - 10 Fragrances in 10 Days

    I don't really care for the "rotten wood" smell in some of the classic masculine perfumes, but I love its medicinal patchouli and green mossy base.
  95. Re: Tired of opaque oriental animalics – looking for transparent skank

    Sven Pritzkoleit Civette Intense Bright citrus with a relatively gentle civet warmth and a bit of smoky leather undertone like castoreum, kind of like a civet cologne.
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    Re: Providence Perfume Company

    I so love the vetiver twist in Hindu Honeysuckle. Not only is the honeysuckle very realistic to my nose, the presence of vetiver evokes the humid garden soil after rain to me, which adds more...
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    Re: Serge Lutens - L'eau D'armoise ??

    I've tried L'Eau d'Armoise. Overall its aesthetic is very in line with the previous L'Eau collection, quite transparent, luminous and easy to wear. Its opening has an herbal bitterness which I assume...
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    Re: January Scent Projects

    I've tried Dinudisit. It's indeed a fun and weird one, behaving like Vaporocindro in the way that it's quite prismatic and not easy to pin down, with a certain dissonance yet also totally making...
  99. Re: 70's and 80's Chronological Sync - 10 Fragrances in 10 Days

    I wore Givenchy Gentleman today from a decant. The opening has a very strong medicinal patchouli among vintage perfumes, while the dry down has the vivid green mossy base very common in 70/80's...
  100. Re: "Cold" tobacco scent recommendation request (not TOBACCO VANILLE like)

    +1 with Dusita Issara

    Also maybe worth a try:

    - Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac a fougère centred on tobacco kind of like the combination in Issara with pine and aromatic herbs, but less musky...
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