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  1. Re: Compounds for a Nacotic white flower accord

    As a rule, an absolute is the darkest of all extraction types, AND, smells least like a live flower. Tuberose Abs. does not smell like a fresh flower in the fields of tropical countries farming...
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    Re: Incense "bright", not "dark"

    Bright incense relies on shorter lived terpinenes.
    Think of very bright Frankincense, Black Pepper EO, alpha and beta pinenes, limonene, terpinene, etc.
  3. Thread: Alcohol

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    778

    Re: Alcohol

    My experience with Mexican vendors, who do not live near their northern border, speak a lot less English than you might hope, due to their education.
  4. Thread: Alcohol

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    778

    Re: Alcohol

    Cane alcohol is just a tad sweeter, but likely very usable.
  5. Re: Compounds for a Nacotic white flower accord

    Magnolia is mostly top to middle. Same with Gardenia. Yes, Jasmine sambac / Sampquita can help. But you're asking for help when I think you should be looking for a formula to work from, and learn...
  6. Re: Compounds for a Nacotic white flower accord

    Sounds like you need some ooopmh from Indole or Indolarome.
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    Re: What synthetics could I use?

    Would say nearly the same.
    10% Hedione,
    2% Gamma Methyl ionone
    10% Galaxolide @ 50%
    2% Ambrettolide

    And if one drop of Iso E Super = "extremely soapy", your sample size must be minuscule.
    Is...
  8. Re: Can these materials be dissolved in alcohol?

    You would likely dilute to some similar ratio as you predilute other materials for your blending trials.
    If you dilute all your other materials to 10%, then maybe these too.
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    Re: Tonka Bean Tincture

    Likely concerned is the amount of Coumarin resultant in your tincture/dilution.
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    Re: How to dissolve these solid materials?

    Unless all of your ingredients are powders, most of the time, if you simply add in the powder to the existing solution, it will dissolve into solution.
    I don't bother to dilute crystalline materials...
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    Re: Perfume spray: Ethanol Alternative

    I can only recommend that you undertake your own research. I've not responded, because a client is paying me to develop this for them.
  12. Re: Can these materials be dissolved in alcohol?

    Perfumery alcohol is just fine there.
  13. Re: Marshmallow Note advice - also why not premades?

    I got a sample of Sotolone from Vigon, from working on Elephant, (not published).
    Honestly, wrangling a sample at full strength will last you the rest of your life.
  14. Re: Some reading materials for learners - PK Interview with Revista Olfato magazine

    I still have all of my tools, and a whole huge load of scraps from doing that 700sq ft of window, Enough for a lot of regular sized windows! :-)
    You can see the stained glass window here in this...
  15. Some reading materials for learners - PK Interview with Revista Olfato magazine

    I have struggled to decide whether to post this here, or not, since it really could be considered as self promotion, if posted, BUT, reading through it, I clearly see that people on the learning path...
  16. Re: Marshmallow Note advice - also why not premades?

    Haven't tried to make Marshmallow particularly, but I think the Maltols, both of them would be helpful, tiny tiny doses...
    Don't know of any fragrance oils, as I don't trade in that realm, but it...
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    Re: So I got my oakmoss. Now what?

    Let's start with the basics.
    First, there is NO oakmoss essential oil.
    it is ONLY extracted as an absolute, and it is so dark and dense that you can't see through it, hardly even when diluted to...
  18. Thread: Human musk ?

    by pkiler
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    Re: Human musk ?

    I am extremely sure that it is a fantasy accord.
  19. Replies
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    Re: A little (very little) Fougere research

    AND - - - NONE of those formulas have ANY real fern in them, to begin with.
    It's all fantasy. Fantasy defined by fantasy. Imagine that! :-)

    I actually DO make a scent with real Fern...
  20. Re: Need help solubizing eucalyptus oil into water

    I don't use these products, because I always use alcohol as my substrate.
    I am certain that Christopher Brosius would be using something on this order, if he makes water soluble products.
  21. Replies
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    Re: 50ml FEA 15 glass bottles

    Your country is required for an adequate answer or recommendation.
  22. Re: Price Jumps from £10 to £200 just to have Scales without auto off feature? 2nd hand?

    I have two My Weigh i101 scales, I was able to defeat the auto off function in my early units, the new units I do not think I have noticed that they turn off automatically. They are to 0.005g. And...
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    Re: Advice for citrus

    PSH, PA, and CP are the mainstay suppliers for small Perfumers.
    And when Bill at TGSC republishes his pricelist, coming back April 30, 2020, he says, then also stop back by this link to purchase...
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    Re: starting out, question on chypre notes

    OR, not worry about someone else's boxes made for you, and just make what works.
  25. Replies
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    Re: Unwanted Soapy smell in own mixture

    I'd say the soapy is coming from these:

    Aurantiol

    Linalool as separate and in the Petitgrain

    The rose of PEA, Citronellol, and Geraniol,

    AND the Sandalwood of Ebanol
  26. Re: New to Perfumery - Sourcing ingredients in Australia

    Ask Mark at Hermitage Australia, he can likely help you find some suppliers.
  27. Replies
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    Re: Smell Sketches - Jan. 2020 - cis-3-Hexenol

    you've got two things there



    I think that more likely it is the Coumarin, than the Exaltolide.



    Your Eugenol dosage is at 1.28%, you might reduce that down, it could be too high.
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    Re: Advice for citrus

    Why don't you buy a bottle of Dihydromyrcenol, and see how close that gets you?
  29. Replies
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    Re: Need of advice on blending with alcohol.

    I doubt that 2manyhobies will see your post, they were last here almost 2 years ago.
  30. Re: Need help solubizing eucalyptus oil into water

    It won't work without a solubilizer like Peg-20, or Solubilisant LRI.
  31. Replies
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    Re: Type of Musks on Narciso Rodriguez?

    That's a good question. I replied because I often have information of scents like this, and when I do, I tell about what I know. I thought that it might be possible for someone to expect me to...
  32. Re: Anyone has an idea how to make those into a scent?

    After consulting in 10 books in my library, I came up with absolutely nothing regarding trying to learn about the floral scent of Myrtle.

    What I did find had these molecular constituents to the...
  33. Re: Anyone has an idea how to make those into a scent?

    I'm pretty sure that the myrtle oils on the market are from leaves, not flowers.
  34. Replies
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    Re: Type of Musks on Narciso Rodriguez?

    Narciso, I don't obviously know very much about Argentina, nor about your needs, but I do see that ACS international has an office in Sao Paulo, maybe they can ship you a kilo of...
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    Re: Working With A Paste

    Working diluted to 50% is very common for me with paste absolute, or musks that are not pulverized crystals, Aurelione, for instance, which is a solid block, most of the time, unless you melt it and...
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    Re: Type of Musks on Narciso Rodriguez?

    Narciso, your country is what?
  37. Replies
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    Re: Working With A Paste

    I use these shellfish picks here in the lab. With a fork to break up things in a bottle on one end, and little narrow spatula on the other, very helpful......
  38. Thread: Vanilla Pod

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    290

    Re: Vanilla Pod

    Vanilla pods need the alcohol to dissolve what you want out of it, plus you'll need time, and weight control repeatability, but yes, you can do as you ask, if you c AZ n afford to buy the beans.
  39. Re: New Directions UK - Fake oils? Frangipani, Neroli, Linden blossom etc

    Since all single molecules are the same, whether synthetically derived aroma chemicals, or so called "isolates", you have to make the choice only which set of impurities that you want to pay for, and...
  40. Thread: Alcohol

    by pkiler
    Replies
    13
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    778

    Re: Alcohol

    I can be wrong, I had this figured out a few years ago, but forgot apparently.
  41. Thread: Alcohol

    by pkiler
    Replies
    13
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    778

    Re: Alcohol

    I believe the circle expresses the same as "proof". Proof, is always twice as high as actual alcohol percent.
  42. Replies
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    Re: Obtaining a MSDS for your fragrances

    https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-8311-custom-regulatory-documentation.aspx
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    Re: Male Underarm Sweat Accord

    Are you using any Aldron?
  44. Re: New Directions UK - Fake oils? Frangipani, Neroli, Linden blossom etc

    New Directions has a very spotty history of not providing real - high end naturals products.
    I cannot recommend such purchases.

    Lower end naturals seem OK. I buy my Buchu from New Directions,...
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    Re: Smell Sketches - Jan. 2020 - cis-3-Hexenol

    Thanks,
    It's Celery LEAF, not seed, Celery Leaf CO2. The CO2 has it's own set of unique molecules in it. Different from the leaf EO.
    A very unique and somewhat difficult to obtain material.
  46. Replies
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    Re: Diluting vanilla absolute

    Vanilla Absolute is likely very soluble into Alcohol, since it was extracted with alcohol, from the concrete/first level extraction. But if it is a CO@ extraction, that is a seperate issue,...
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    Re: Type of Musks on Narciso Rodriguez?

    I don't know the scent, nor have any intelligence on Narciso frags.
  48. Replies
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    Re: Smell Sketches - Jan. 2020 - cis-3-Hexenol

    OK, with a minimal time writing and working on the formula this afternoon/ eve, and no time yet to let it meld, here's the formula:



    Cis-3-Hexenol
    1.48%


    Perilla / Shiso EO
    0.49%
  49. Replies
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    Re: Formula With No Quantities Listed

    Early in my life of perfumery, I bought some absolutes, that just would not go into anything. Black Tea absolute from a supplier was one of them. I don't know what was wrong with it, and the...
  50. Replies
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    Re: Formula With No Quantities Listed

    Oh dear, so sorry, I guess maybe I wasn't fully awake yet.

    Still, your choice of substrate determines what is soluble.
    Next, the Oakwood extraction that I use seems very different, more like an...
  51. Replies
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    Re: Formula With No Quantities Listed

    Let's just start by saying that your choices of carrier of a fixed oil, does in fact limit your choices of materials soluble to it. By definition, absolutes are alcohol soluble, because the were...
  52. Re: Boiling Point / Rentention Time / Peak Area

    Unfortunately, none of that data will help you formulate a perfume.
  53. Replies
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Well, I AM talking about my original issue Fahrenheit, that I bought myself in the 80's, and sent out for a GC test.
    It doesn't have any norlimbanol in the GC. But it might have something similar,...
  54. Replies
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    yeah, Ambrene 50 info is not very hard to find... It's also in a lot of books around.
  55. Replies
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    Re: Do You Want to Play a (Perfumers') Game?

    I think you have a good idea for playful and learning exercises...
    Go for it. Play.
  56. Replies
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    2,754

    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Finelikeanoyster, Perfumers Apprentice at one point published a formula for Coty Chypre, herewith:

    My other harddrive is having problems, so I have not checked other drives for other version...
  57. Replies
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Hmm, Well the GC that I have for Drakkar Noir has DHM at 7.8%, and Benzyl Sal at 20+%
    Also has 2.5% Corymbolone, which of course, we can't buy.

    Honestly, to have 15% DHM in a formula makes me...
  58. Replies
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    While it was free information, when they were freely posted, and I downloaded all of them, I actually never bothered to make a single one of those formulas posted by Brechbill. Possibly my loss. ...
  59. Replies
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Regarding the Fahrenheit . . . . . - thing.
    Uh, Yeah, missing 21.7% Iso E Super.
    Also doesn't fairly represent the musks, which is nearly 20%
    and also doesn't mention the importance of Methyl...
  60. Replies
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    Re: Obtaining a MSDS for your fragrances

    Bill's suggestion is kind of typical for small folks like us.
    But I have another possible solution too, is to get one of your fragrances really done well by a lab/service, and then use it as the...
  61. Replies
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    Re: Perfuwoman Formulas are Gone!

    Indeed, I went through it today, and found a lot from the site.

    Not everything is on the other site as mentioned above.
  62. Replies
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    Re: Accords/Maceration

    I have a little surprise interview coming in a magazine on Schiff bases next issue. And if anyone can read Portugese, the newly released Revista Olfato magazine anniversary issue also contains an...
  63. Replies
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    Re: long lasting pepper note

    I saw these prices on Alibaba, and on a website that turned up with a google search, but I dd not note it.
    you should easily be able to duplicate my findings.
  64. Replies
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    Re: long lasting pepper note

    Eeeek! Cascarilla EO is $4.50 - $6.00 per ml.
  65. Replies
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    Re: Accords/Maceration

    Question was about forming new molecules in the concentrate. As I mentioned, many things form in the alcohol, much more readily than in the concentrate.

    I only answered about interaction in the...
  66. Replies
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    Re: Perfume and Literature - Essays

    This is SPAM.
  67. Replies
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    Re: Accords/Maceration

    In order for it to make a difference, blending selected materials together, in the concentrate, one would need a large amount of knowledge of Chemistry, and a large amount of experience of the...
  68. Re: Help... Create a sexy, hot perfume with amber and cardamom.

    "Amber" is a fantasy base to begin with. Any "Amber" that is commonly available is someone's IDEA of the concept. There is a natural amber extraction, but I cannot assume this "Amber" will have...
  69. Re: Help... Create a sexy, hot perfume with amber and cardamom.

    Amber is a profound basenote, and Cardamom is just a topnote.
    Normally, I use Cardamom in pretty small doses, like 1-2%.

    You might be in over your head, to do what you want to do.
    And I might...
  70. Replies
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    "Largest Rose Bush (Tree) in the World"

    On my recent vacation to Tucson, we ventured a bit further out to the city of Tombstone, the site of the Gunfight at the OK Corral, with Wyatt Earp, his brothers, Doc Holliday, and the Clantons. It...
  71. Replies
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    Re: Blending Factors For Ambrette and Oakwood

    Sorry, I have no idea what this term refers to, or anything about it. I'd go with what Septime says.
  72. Replies
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    Re: Indole vs Skatole vs Indole and Skatole

    Do I use them together? Depends on the project, and the client's proclivities.
    I couldn't get the client to let me use Skatole, when working on a Civet Perfume.
    And Client didn't want me to use...
  73. Replies
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    Re: How much time for a simple mix?

    I swirl and invert, "- Stirred, never shaken." LOL!
    James, Bond James.
  74. Replies
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    Re: How much time for a simple mix?

    There is still stabilization with single molecules that takes place, before adding the alcohol, where even more changes, combinations, and stabilization takes place.
    For example, aldehyde molecules...
  75. Thread: What is it?

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    592

    Re: What is it?

    As Rick says, might be those, and also maltol, but I don't know the scents you mention...
  76. Re: Methods of re-using some materials / Handy saving tricks

    Exactly.
  77. Replies
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    Re: Ethylene brassylate, Aurantiol...and?

    You can make your own Orangeblossom base, by subbing in Ethylene Brass for Galaxolide, using this formulas:
    https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/Images/sds/Key%20Accord%20Formula/orangeflower.pdf
  78. Re: Chemistry advice on Irone Alpha and ionone derivatives

    I think that Alpha Irone is not really that far from Alpha Ionone. I just smelled them together.
    And Veltonal, is possibly a Beta Irone substitute, if one could buy Beta Irone...
  79. Re: Methods of re-using some materials / Handy saving tricks

    If you have the time, and access to good alcohol, like 91% Isopropyl, you can swish your pipettes to clean some of them with lighter, thinner materials.
    I used to do that, and then place in a cup...
  80. Replies
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    Re: setting up a workspace: odor "prevention"

    hmmm, your materials often get to be solids when cold, and liquids when warmed. so, in the cold weather, you will need to be prepared for such eventuality.

    Some of my liquids become solid, just...
  81. Re: Trying to make fragrance last and very serious about it.

    First, don't mix fixed oils like Coconut and Jojoba, with alcohol.
    Propylene glycol is also a no-no for use with alcohol.

    Pick a substrate, alcohol, or oil.

    You can get alcohol here:...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Very noob questions on perfumery math

    You have Polysantol at 50.
    To make 10g of concentrate, use 0.5g of Polysantol.

    Makeup up 10g of concentrate, and then choose your solution ratio, later. You say you want a 20% ratio, before...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Very noob questions on perfumery math

    Those numbers are by weight of each material. With those numbers, it looks like parts of 1000.

    So move the decimal over 1 to get actual percentages.

    Divide your target weight by 100, and you...
  84. Replies
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    Re: TGSC Demo Formulæ Tidbits

    Great job, and also great is that there are many more than 500 formulas.
  85. Replies
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    Re: Best aldehydes you've found?

    Aldehydes are a class of molecules with a very diverse olfactory quality range. Vanillin and Heliotropine are aldehydes, as well as fatty citrus Aldehyde C-9.

    By far then the world's most...
  86. Replies
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    Re: The Perfume Of Tutankamen

    search for raw materials here:
    http://www.perfumersearch.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=7&Itemid=8
    I found Papyriferia readily, and not in the USA as well.
  87. Replies
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    Re: Charles Sell's Books and Organic Chemistry

    I am a one man band here. I ask a few questions of a few Chem friends, some of them quite elevated, but I don't have a forum that I consult with.
    It might just be possible that for what I am...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Alpha Damascone ?

    Liberty Natural has a number of them, ah, wait, they did. hmmm...
    then go with New Directions. hmm, not them either... uh-oh.
    eeek, didn't realize it would be so hard to find stock.

    Ah, OK<...
  89. Replies
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    Re: New to BN- ISO Tiare Absolute

    Sorry to say, this product at this price can't possibly be real Tiare absolute:


    1 kg (2.20 lb)

    $268.21
  90. Replies
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    Re: Charles Sell's Books and Organic Chemistry

    I went to that workshop.
    It was about making molecules that you already know about, and learning bio pathways to productions of these molecules.

    Personally, I'd rather just buy something, if...
  91. Replies
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    Re: the pungent camphorous smell in lavendar

    The flowers have less camphor, while the leaves have more.
    If you can find a flower only EO, or as Ivor mentions, (which I forgot about), use the lavender heart.
  92. Replies
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    Re: the pungent camphorous smell in lavendar

    The camphor molecule is quite small, volatile, and pungent. You are trying to quiet the Camphor with things that are base notes (Oakmoss and Tonka), while camphor is a topnote. You need to try to...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Alpha Damascone ?

    I think that the Buchu EO is maybe really what you want, instead of just the mercaptan.
    There are several types available to pick from. They vary a bit.
  94. Replies
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    Re: Alpha Damascone ?

    Maybe you just want Buchu, instead?
  95. Replies
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    Re: Charles Sell's Books and Organic Chemistry

    GCMS is a great tool to look under the hood of fragrances, learn what makes this note, or that combination.
    With a very large collection of tests that I've both paid for, and traded for, I have...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Methods of measurement

    You are of course free to work in whatever manner you choose.
    Just realize that all discussion here is based on weight, and you will not be able to change our minds, because we've already had...
  97. Re: Any Tips for Selling Home Fragrances Online?

    If you have inexpensive scented products, or perfumes, lotions, creams, soaps, etc, then craft fairs are ok. Real Perfumery does not seem to do well at generic craft fairs / Arts fairs /events. One...
  98. Replies
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    Re: The Perfume Of Tutankamen

    several friends and I have discussed Spikenard as a fragrance ingredient. We are all puzzled by why anyone WOULD actually like it. We hypothesize that maybe likability in smells was different then,...
  99. Re: Self taught perfumers: What was your ‘ah ha’ moment?

    My AHA moments.

    1. When I realized that no matter what I did, measuring by volume would always fail me.

    2. When I realized that when working to 100 drops of a perfume concentrate, that one drop...
  100. Replies
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    Re: Methods of measurement

    I'm sorry that you have a migraine. really, I am sorry.

    Come back to me when you are able to discuss this again.

    My one thought for you in the meantime, is that I think that you come from a...
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