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  1. Replies
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    Re: Orris Absolute and sunrisebotanics.com

    Your doubt is noted.

    ***EDIT***

    Your doubt is also well placed. Prompted by this thread, I again consulted with my Biolandes rep, and I now have a new attestation and COA from their lab in...
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    Re: Orris Absolute and sunrisebotanics.com

    My sentiment exactly, PK. Thank you for echoing it.
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    Re: Orris Absolute and sunrisebotanics.com

    Please note that their website provides extremely limited info, especially without a client login. Even with a client login, the site does not show their full (and changing) product range, data...
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    Re: Orris Absolute and sunrisebotanics.com

    This, too, is not set in stone; it depends on the supplier. Some suppliers (e.g., Liberty Natural Products) distinguish between CO2 (low pressure) and SCO2 (high pressure), where the "S" stands for...
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    Re: Orris Absolute and sunrisebotanics.com

    No. Neither Biolandes nor any other reputable company with which I have worked has ever called any natural/neat/undiluted Orris material Orris Oil. Resinoid, concrete, CO2 (total or select), and...
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    Re: Orris Absolute and sunrisebotanics.com

    Good guess, but they do not call it a steam distillation (their lab is quite clear on this point), likely because it is a substantively different and more complex process more closely resembling that...
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    Re: Orris Absolute and sunrisebotanics.com

    If a link existed, I would provide it. This fact is known to me by way of a business-to-business relationship that my company has with Biolandes. I can tell you that the proprietary process also...
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    Re: Orris Absolute and sunrisebotanics.com

    Unfortunately, it is no longer quite that simple or static. These descriptions are increasingly more about stylistic flourishes than substantive differences. As such, they can vary from supplier to...
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    Re: Molecular WT. and Vapor Pressure

    I STRONGLY agree with the spirit and substance of David's comments. I would only add that besides being "intensely practical," perfumery is also profoundly personal.
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    Re: Orris Absolute and sunrisebotanics.com

    I have never encountered any neat/undiluted Orris material that is liquid at room temperature (unless the temperature in the room is 86į F (30įC) or higher). Regardless of extraction method (some of...
  11. Thread: Civet question

    by mnaonbn
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    Re: Civet question

    I too doubt that the compound has real Civet in it. I don't know which Civet synthetics you have tried, but may I suggest coming at it from a less direct if not counter-intuitive approach? For...
  12. Thread: Civet question

    by mnaonbn
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    Re: Civet question

    Just trying to understand your objective...Do you want the civet note in your accord to be more pronounced, less pronounced, appear sooner, appear later, last shorter, last longer?
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    Re: Small scale mixing

    Talk about being "over-sensitive" and having an "outburst." Your reactions have been far more emotional and melodramatic than any of mine ever were. Such irony...such hypocrisy...such...
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    Re: Small scale mixing

    Oh, and the decency just grows and deepens with even more name calling. So, let me see...a self-admitted increasingly intolerant person wants to ignore me (by telling me that he wants to ignore me,...
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    Re: Small scale mixing

    So, asking to be treated with courtesy is "so silly" to you? Now, that's what I call thoughtfulness. As for encyclopedias, they inform you without insulting you. Any encyclopedia that does...
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    Re: Vintage sweet help needed

    Okay, here goes:

    Maltol (Internet says that it was discovered in 1862 and first synthesized in 1894)
    Coumarin (Internet says it was discovered/first synthesized in 1868)

    It's probably not...
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    Re: Small scale mixing

    Once again, a big fail at reading comprehension and basic courtesy. Don't you see? Don't you get it? When you glibly and mockingly write things like, "OOOH dear. have I touched a nerve," and when...
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    Re: Labeling question

    [Please, disregard this post.]
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    Re: Small scale mixing

    Thank you for sharing your particular experience, but what I said was not "not true, in [your] experience," and could not have been "not true, in [your] experience," because what I described was not...
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    Re: Small scale mixing

    Because my process is more efficient and far less tedious and superfluous (at least, that is my informed opinion, having tried both approaches). My process means that the grunt work (menial lab...
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    Re: Small scale mixing

    As soon as I receive an order of raw materials, I make them "lab ready," meaning that I weigh them, calculate how much ethanol I will need to make a 20% concentration (just an example--could be...
  22. Thread: Lilac Accord

    by mnaonbn
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    Re: Lilac Accord

    I have not tried it yet, but this looks lovely. Thank you for sharing.
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    Re: Small scale mixing

    I should have mentioned that my samples are already diluted in ethanol, so I am not composing with neat oils. Same is true for scaling up--already diluted in ethanol.
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    Re: Small scale mixing

    I compose using drops as my raw unit of measure and scale up accordingly using a spreadsheet (MS Excel, in my case). For example, let us assume that I had created the following formula:

    20...
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    Re: Labeling question

    Oh my...that is a powerhouse concentration. :grin: As for modern day fragrance, my goodness...who could be anosmic to them? I can smell them on people from thirty feet away, OUTDOORS! Of course, I...
  26. Thread: Lilac Help!

    by mnaonbn
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    Re: Lilac Help!

    It occurred to me that if you later decide that the Ald. C-12 MNA is too overbearing even at trace levels, you could try Lauric Acid instead for that same soapy/fatty quality. Just a thought.
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    Re: Labeling question

    Although not official, this from Now Smell This (cited on IFRA's website), Perfume Shrine, and Wikipedia might help. These (and many other) sources all cite the same or similar numbers/ranges and...
  28. Re: About to order essential oils - question about coconut oil (FCO)

    Re Q1: Agreed. I would add that although reading such instructions is important and should not be skipped, there is no better teacher for doing lab work than firsthand experience, which as in all...
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    Re: How do you organize your organ?

    What an interesting question...it really perked me up because I have never thought about seeing those qualities within the physical organization my perfumer's organ. I suppose that I internalize...
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    Re: Soft Tea Scent - what is it/

    By Sampaguita, I assume you mean Jasmine Sambac, correct? Anyway, just based on your description of "a very soft jasmine tea like scent," my mind instantly went to Hedione HC, even before I finished...
  31. Thread: Lilac Help!

    by mnaonbn
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    Re: Lilac Help!

    I entirely agree with this...I thought the same thing when I saw the printed formula.
  32. Thread: Lilac Help!

    by mnaonbn
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    Re: Lilac Help!

    Re an orris accord, I suppose it would depend on what is in it, but it does make sense in so far as living White Lilac, as I mentioned previously, smells prominently of pure white soap to my nose...
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    Re: Sweet orange oil

    A good U.S. supplier (good prices, wide product range, and small to large sizes) is Liberty Natural Products (on their website, just click the Search button, and type Orange). However, they do have...
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    Re: Heliotropin: The Low Down

    It is somewhat similar in aroma to Heliotropine but lasts even longer. Another difference is that Heliotropine is available as both a natural isolate and synthetic molecule. However, Piperonyl...
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    Re: Heliotropin: The Low Down

    Ah, that probably explains it then...some combination of impurities that are unique to the starting material and/or to its processing.
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    Re: Heliotropin: The Low Down

    If I have deduced it correctly, jfrater's materials came from Vigon International, who posts full documentation for each of its materials online. If I am correct, the Spec Sheet for each of those...
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    Re: Heliotropin: The Low Down

    I am unfamiliar with NZ laws, but I do not see the logic/consistency in the rules that you describe. Heliotropine/Heliotropin/Piperonal are just synonyms; each has the same CAS Number (120-57-0). ...
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    Re: Heliotropin: The Low Down

    In case you or others do not realize it, any Heliotropine, regardless of name (i.e., Heliotropin, Piperonal), and regardless of source material or extraction/production method, is "illegal," to the...
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    Re: Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde - replacement

    I am unsure why this is, but I know that it should not be. Was it this color when you first received it, or did it undergo discoloration (darken over time)? Further, do you keep your materials...
  40. Thread: Lilac Help!

    by mnaonbn
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    Re: Lilac Help!

    Thank you. I will look into this.
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    Re: How do you organize your organ?

    Such good questions. Benzyl Salicylate is easy...Green. To me, it smells like dusty celery. Re Ambergris, whether natural or any of the many synthetic substitutes, most go in the Beige area, same...
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    Re: How do you organize your organ?

    Mine is organized by color, by which I mean that materials invoke colors to me, and I organize them accordingly. For example, black materials include Birch Tar, Cade, Indole, and so on, because they...
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    Re: Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde - replacement

    Both ACA and a-HCA are available as a natural isolate and synthetic molecule. Both also are yellow in color: ACA is a pale yellow, while a-HCA is a medium shade of yellow. So, unless your ACA is a...
  44. Thread: Lilac Help!

    by mnaonbn
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    Re: Lilac Help!

    So wonderful to hear this. I hope that your continued tweaking and time lead you even further in getting the accord that you have in mind.





    Re the Petitgrain, a "heart" distillation of...
  45. I am always doubtful of a perfume whose packaging...

    I am always doubtful of a perfume whose packaging is so ostentatious. Besides, for anyone who is a vegetarian or vegan, the use of leather (from stingrays no less, which I did not even know was a...
  46. Thread: Lilac Help!

    by mnaonbn
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    Re: Lilac Help!

    You are very welcome. Thank you in kind for sharing your thoughts and creative venture. I am glad that you have the Tolu from Hermitage. I think it is really wonderful stuff...a beautiful and...
  47. Ah, business as usual...grow bigger, and bigger,...

    Ah, business as usual...grow bigger, and bigger, and bigger...What products do we make, again?...Who cares?!...Grow bigger, and bigger, and bigger...make more money, and money, and money...
  48. Too cute. I look forward to sampling this, though...

    Too cute. I look forward to sampling this, though the listed notes surprise me a bit. To my nose, the bubble bath itself always smelled mostly of sweet fruity violets. Regardless, it seem like it...
  49. Thread: Lilac Help!

    by mnaonbn
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    Re: Lilac Help!

    Your chosen components look quite good so far, though without actually smelling your accord, I am tempted to advise against Petitgrain and Indole. I would also advise reconsidering the use of both...
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    Re: Tuberose Headspace GC-MS?

    David--Apology graciously accepted...no problem at all. I suspected as much because I too was tempted to do the same thing...funny how the brain works.

    Cheers,
    Michael
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    Re: Tuberose Headspace GC-MS?

    PK--I'm glad that you got what you needed just the same.

    David--You're mistaken (perhaps you didn't read far enough). The methodology used by the researchers was indeed Headspace with GCMS...
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    Re: Tuberose Headspace GC-MS?

    Hi PK:

    I realize that I am late responding to this, but if you still need a Tuberose Headspace with GCMS analysis, then here it is. Just scroll down to the bottom right corner of the page until...
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    Re: The Expiration of Aroma Chemicals

    Good point about pure (200-proof) alcohol. Although I did not specify it, I was referring to ethanol that is 190 or 192 proof. At those levels, the alcohol remains stable and does not grab water (as...
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    Re: The Expiration of Aroma Chemicals

    The answer to your question is ALCOHOL. Alcohol is a powerful preservative because it is inherently an antiseptic. Perfumery (whether involving naturals or synthetics) is ORGANIC chemistry, and...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    The Grossman Accord ("GA") smells very much like laundry products (and even shampoo) to me, which is probably why Gorssman is said to have called it the "hug me" accord (i.e., think about TV laundry...
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    I chuckled when I read your comparison of a-HCA to Red Hots but only because it's so true, at least in the early stage of its development. I however was not clever enough to notice the similarity...
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    Re: Any experience with ordering from CGherbals

    Given that people are seeking feedback, I wanted to share my own negative experience with this line in the hopes that others will take note or proceed with caution. Here is a chronological summary of...
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    Re: Article: The Pound Shop Fragrance Challenge

    LOL! This is exactly what I thought when I saw the image...it is indeed very suggestive (and hilarious).
  59. Dear Justin Bieber: Please go away. That is...

    Dear Justin Bieber:

    Please go away. That is all.
  60. Re: Article: Dior launch 22 minute promo to celebrate creation of J'Adore

    These videos are aesthetically pretty but not informatively substantive, especially given the lack of English subtitles in the longer video. Frankly, even if my French were better, I doubt that I...
  61. I really like the annotated style of reporting...

    I really like the annotated style of reporting here—you not only recount the thoughtful questions and illuminating answers but also describe the contextual nuances of the interaction (e.g., head...
  62. One of the best things that might come from this...

    One of the best things that might come from this incessant and arbitrary infringement on artistic expression is that more and more of us perfume connoisseurs will become amateur artisan perfumers...
  63. Re: Article: New UK company, Olfactik, set up to supply the independent perfumer

    First, what do you mean when you say that you are "new to THIS INTEREST?" I want to make sure I interpret your message correctly.

    Second, my list of suppliers exceeds 30. I am happy to offer an...
  64. Re: Article: Prends Moi Slimming Perfume has a waiting list in the UK

    Oh my, oh me! This company has finally done it...it found the cure for over-eating. Please send me some of this magical elixir so that I can guzzle it down by the gallon. What's that you say? ...
  65. Re: Article: New UK company, Olfactik, set up to supply the independent perfumer

    Please do not dismiss the FACTUAL portion of my comment as if I were expressing a mere opinion (i.e., "Contrary to what 'mnaonbn' THINKS"). It was not just what I THINK. It was based on YEARS of...
  66. QUOTE FROM ARTICLE: “Following months of research...

    QUOTE FROM ARTICLE: “Following months of research and testing among our diverse customer base, we are delighted to finally introduce Bling into this market.”

    READ AS: "We did some focus groups and...
  67. Re: Article: New UK company, Olfactik, set up to supply the independent perfumer

    Cool, but there are (and have been for years now) numerous other online retailers that offer the same type of direct-to-consumer perfume supplies and raw materials (including naturals, synthetics,...
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    Thank you for this informative and enjoyable...

    Thank you for this informative and enjoyable article. I for one very much like "a little boringly 'retro' or barbershop-like" perfumes. They are simple and thus elegant yet comforting, all of which...
  69. Re: Article: Selena Gomez asks fans to pick notes for her debut fragrance

    Well, it looks like I was largely correct: Per Fragrantica.com (as of today, Apr. 12, 2012), Gomez’s fragrance is composed as follows:

    Top notes: raspberry, orange, peach, pineapple
    Heart:...
  70. This is unsettlingly sad news: It was just...

    This is unsettlingly sad news: It was just yesterday that I was revisiting Alec's EssentiallyMe website and re-watching his instructional and silly YouTube videos wherein he appears as his...
  71. This is unsettlingly sad news: It was just...

    This is unsettlingly sad news: It was just yesterday that I was revisiting Alec's EssentiallyMe website and re-watching his instructional and silly YouTube videos wherein he appears as his...
  72. This is unsettlingly sad news: It was just...

    This is unsettlingly sad news: It was just yesterday that I was revisiting Alec's EssentiallyMe website and re-watching his instructional and silly YouTube videos wherein he appears as his...
  73. Re: Article: Coty and Madonna unveil visuals for Truth or Dare scent, and announce pre-sale at Macy'

    This is hi-freakin-larious...just awesome. Thanks, new friend. :smiley:
  74. Re: Article: Coty and Madonna unveil visuals for Truth or Dare scent, and announce pre-sale at Macy'

    Touchť. I should have said English accent, or perhaps more accurately, English dialect. Britain is not just England. How could I forget, especially given my obsession with the great Scottish chef...
  75. Re: Article: Coty and Madonna unveil visuals for Truth or Dare scent, and announce pre-sale at Macy'

    Aw, there, there. Don't say never...if you try hard enough, and want it bad enough, and you believe in yourself, then maybe, just maybe, you too will one day, perhaps in the distant future, be able...
  76. I hope that this piece of trash ice princess rots...

    I hope that this piece of trash ice princess rots in hell. To use her own fake British-accented words, I "absolutely loath" her.
  77. Re: Article: Vote in the 2012 Basenotes Reader Awards

    Hi-freakin-larious!
  78. Re: Article: Selena Gomez asks fans to pick notes for her debut fragrance

    What else can I say except that your uncritical attitude is precisely the kind of apathy that I addressed above. Your (or my) personal opinions about Gomez are irrelevant in this context (i.e., on...
  79. Re: Article: Viktor & Rolf's Spicebomb set for explosive launch next year

    Hi-freakin-larious...because it's true! I wish I would have thought of this clever remark. Oh well, maybe next time.
  80. Re: Article: Selena Gomez asks fans to pick notes for her debut fragrance

    And thank you too, jooxi, for properly reading my reply as "passioned," which is exactly what it was. Let me tell you, if a celeb frag happened to be "some unintentional gem," I would be all too...
  81. Re: Article: Selena Gomez asks fans to pick notes for her debut fragrance

    Very well said. Thank you for offering this valuable and enlightening perspective.
  82. Re: Article: Selena Gomez asks fans to pick notes for her debut fragrance

    Bad art DOES prevent good art from being made, and NO, there is not enough room for both. If the market continues to be flooded (pun intended) with crap perfumes that are not only pumped out on the...
  83. I see...So, to hell with having a creative vision...

    I see...So, to hell with having a creative vision and thus meaningful purpose for the perfume, right? This is PURELY a commercial venture and thus by definition is void of heart, soul, depth, and...
  84. Re: Article: Coty snaps up Madonna for fragrance deal. Truth or Dare to launch in 2012

    I can't speak for others, but I'm hostile toward this B*TCH mostly because of her ugly display of snobbery and ungratefulness toward one of her fans who presented her with a cut hydrangea. If Madge...
  85. Madge, here's some TRUTH for you to consider, if...

    Madge, here's some TRUTH for you to consider, if you DARE: You are a washed-up ungrateful plastic skank, and nobody wants to buy your perfume. Besides, it reads like an uninspired floriental that's...
  86. Replies
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    Re: The Safe Cosmetics Act: A New Threat?

    NO! The SCA is NOT a new threat.

    I am a paralegal, and I have just glanced at the proposed legislation for the SCA, including its "Definitions" section (sec. 611). Based on my reading thereof,...
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    Re: Anyone own Iris 39? (or other iris wonders?)

    I don't know if this question was ever answered, so here's my input. According to Le Labo's website (http://www.lelabofragrances.com/), Iris 39 is classified as a women's fragrance. However, I am a...
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    Re: Skincare for men - The best products?

    Alas, now having used Eyre for quite some time, I withdraw my original but notably tentative recommendation. The line is not nearly as impressive as I had anticipated, though I admit I do like the...
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    Re: Skincare for men - The best products?

    I VERY much like Clarins--given my vast experimentation with so many brands and lines, I'm surprised how long it took me to discover Clarins, but I'm glad I finally did because I think they're...
  90. Re: What a fake CREED looks like????!Great Pics.!!GREEN FRICH TWEED,Yes FRICH

    Wonderful and informative thread. Although I didnít make my way through all of it, at the risk of repeating something someone else might have said, Iíd like to add my two cents. I am with all of...
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000