David, could it have been musk tibetene ?
I seem to recall that had a dryness to it
Type: Posts; User: luigi_g; Keyword(s):
David, could it have been musk tibetene ?
I seem to recall that had a dryness to it
do you need a lot ? if not I have some left from a project, maybe 20 grams perhaps, could send you some ?
it was from Vigon about 6 years ago
this is probably a dumb question, but why the exaltone from muskrat, rather than what is made now?
I only messed with this in the hopes of coming up with the dihydro-civetone
yes, thats what we had nuggets, maybe they serve yankies the scaps ?
I have eaten gator down south, it is actually very good.
Paul, The dried glans are no good, you need to work with fresh glands, you also need to make sure
the glands are whole and in the preservative only. [Sodium Benzoate]
forgot to mention,
so only 2% of a purified extract of the glands are the macrocyclic ketones [the mixed musks], the other 98% are the corresponding alcohols.
so while you are correct, it is possible to oxidise the...
Paul, why do you say that ?
haha, that is the price per pound
Alligators have two sets of scents glands, although they have been called musk glands there have been no macrocyclic musk compounds identified.
the slight rose scent is overpowered by a...
Chris, if you have ever smelled a tarsal gland from a deer you would know there is nothing there for use in perfumery.
I have worked with and studied deer / animal materials for 40 years, there is...
Only species of Moschus genus have a musk gland.
All species in the Cervidae family have scent glands, of which the the most easily
perceived scent comes from tarsal glands, and is of no value...
pre fixing alcohol was really deodorization, ethanol distillation and rectification methods back then were very crude as compared
to modern day distillations, if you have ever smelled real...
form a LLC for your perfume company, and find a reasonable product liability insurance, depending on your state, it might run a few hundred dollars a year,
and forget about getting sued....
End up in the street? you can't be serious.
I will have to relabel my frankincense resin and benzoin resin tinctures, to solutions then, as well as all of the other resin tinctures.
here is an interesting read;
maybe I used the wrong word, frankincense tears is the tree resin or the starting material as you mention.
would this not be dependent on ones definition of a tincturing process as well as what material was tinctured?
for example frankincense tears, they dissolve in a few hours even faster if the...
Bill, with all do respect I would disagree,
this certainly would pertain to perfumery, in fact evaporation curves have been studied for years in terms of how a fragrance is constructed.
Implausibility of the vibrational theory of olfaction
really pretty sad, how people are treated here.
There are only a few cents each, however the minimum order amount is crazy, like 10,000
those are the glass dabbers made for ASAQ, if you are familiar with that house, they are made in China
I use these glass stoppers
The heavy handed moderation was supposedly stopped, but now if one disagrees or points out inaccuracies
with the so called appointed experts or a few that just suck up...
perhaps check with a perfume society in the country where you live, but as an example
here in the US, the American Society of perfumers, you must be invited to join, a perfumer is...
Is the cost of their Santalol out of the question for your purchase?
they sure are an incredible for cooking
looks very nice mumsy,
so English Black truffle, never heard of that type, are they similar to french or italian types
You can slice and tincture the truffles, the tincture is amazing, I use the black Italian winter truffles.
Biolandes also sells a black truffle infusion, which is a tincture, not as stong...
PA, sells the reconstructed bergamot by Givauden, which is really nice.
are you opposed to using synthetics, there are a few real nice synthetic bergamots out there
David this will clear things up;
Chemical analysis showed that ?-terpinene degrades rapidly, forming allylic epoxides and p-cymene
as the major...
all I was pointing out is you will not get p-Cymene from Limonene auto-oxidation / degradation / poor lemon oil storage.
p-Cymene however will form as oxidative product due to degradation / poor...
it was my understanding para-cymene is the oxidative product of gama-terpinene, rather than from limonene.
I use a ceramic stove top cleaner, works well, barkeepers friend or the like, sometimes a little peroxide will help
buy the 151 rum and salt it out, I did that last year for a custom whiskey perfume, I salted out devil's cut Bourbon and got it close to 96%
don't know what your oil base is, or if you could choose one,
but one solution would be to use fractionated coconut oil, it is alcohol soluble.
very diluted skatole will have a certain floral aspect,
but to your question, as far as the sweetness and the main floral notes,
think about auto-degradation and esterfication, then...
your welcome Paul
so if you want to build just the macrocyclic musk base use
5 - 10 parts exaltone - per your needed profile
1 part civetone
1 part cyclohexadecanone a.k.a. iso muscone
but that will not give...
just curious why you mentioned civet is a "precious (and rare) material" ?
in higher quality civet, cyclopentadecanone, a.k.a. exaltone is found in much higher quantities than civetone, in some cases 20 times the amount of civetone,
and in some farms, dihydrocivetone is...
I read once that the harsh distillation of rosewood causes the racemic linalool, I suppose due to the high of heat and or excess pressure.
maybe it is the civet your using Bill?
2% civet tincture is very sweet and floral, no barnyard....
this was my last batch;
bugouate - bergamont - 60 6 * - sicilian
citron - lemon - 3.0 .3 * - cold pressed italian
lavande - lavendar - 17.0 1.7 * - 40/42 france
B. d. R. - bois de...
did you use oak moss, or tree moss abs,
I made a batch using some old pine tree moss and a really good opoponax resinoid, checking today
I get the same powder as my 1950's version.
this is what i think perhaps;
60 - Bergamot
03 - Lemon
17 - Lavender
25 - B d R (not sure what this is) = bois de rose = rosewood
05 - Coriander
03 - Neroli petals
01 - Mint or...
Jicky was known for it's high dose of civet....
Shocking used even a higher dose years later
it seems it could be Jean Carles, it is also interesting he did Shocking in 1937, which was another perfume with a high dose of civet....
the right side also mentions formula by Henry Robert,...
did you like brut back when it first came out, that was my goto fragrance in 1966 and 67
maceration of the tears in sandalwood oil works very well, no stickiness
Happy perfuming, Irina !!
does the percent matter?
his statement " ...the molecule that makes up ambrofix"
to me this reads as;
ambrofix is one molecule and it is the same as the molecule found in ambergris
chris made this statement
"However what I can say is that natural ambergris,
even of very high quality, does not contain more than about 2% of the
molecule that makes up...
well chris if enantiomerically pure (-)-ambrox is irrelevant, then I have really nothing more to say
do you have any information that would suggest ambrofix is enantiomerically pure (-)-ambrox ?
interchangeable in terms of scent profile, Trufflehunter
if so, then not to my nose, I prefer cetalox, of course I suppose it also depends on the fragrance type....
to me ambroxan is a bit too...
Trufflehunter, I found cetalox quite nice as well, maybe 6 years ago I also got some cetalox Laevo from vigon that was even nicer
it is not, Chris, look at this
that is ambroxan, aka ambrofix, now look at the molecule
then compare that molecule to ambroxide aka ambrox...
yes, it is Pears,
Ambroxan however is a trade / brand name and it is not identical to (-)-ambrox / (-)-Ambroxide
as far as I know.
that was a typo, your post mentioned ambrofix
my post should have read ambrofix is not found in ambergris, of course ambroxan is not as well.
the molecule in ambergris is (-)-ambrox aka...
don't know if this helps you with your formula Pears,
but here is a GC/MS of an aged ambergris tincture
natural ambergris does not contain any ambroxan.
if you have never smelled the perfume, how could one begin to create a perfume that will be nearest to the real thing?
there is also;
two enhancers - modifiers
a good bit of lyral
you are refering to Benzyl Benzoate or Benzyl Alcohol as a solvent when working with frankincense resinoid
rather than Benzyl Benzoate or Benzyl Alcohol used as a solvent to produce...
good question Irina,
there is little info to find, I would certainly think there is a very tiny amount of hexane or the other hydro-carbon solvent remaining
albeit trace amounts as most absolutes...
am thinking the MPG was added as a carrier, frankincense resinoid, and the like are not pourable.
as too the exact solvent, I suppose it would depend on who / where is is made.
resinoids are essentially concretes, hydrocarbon solvents are used, hexane, petroleum ether....
there are also washed resinoids, which are ethanol washed products of the above first...
David, you made me smile today!
am I just overly dense today ?? what does any of this have to do with perfumery?
just a thought before you buy a GC/MS, maybe write/email Dr.Pappas, he might have one or could get one for you?
he is usually very helpful to perfumers
I think your right Bill
that is not a GC/MS, that is a result from a Thin-layer chromatography test.
well, yes, ambergris absolute is like a hard hard wax, or if this was the resinoid, it would have been
extremely thick, but pourable when warmed as the resinoid has a small amount of...
I believe this is the real deal, if it was the 'Artificial' product, they always labeled it with Artificial, printed on the label.
also this was not a tincture, this was ambergris grey...
David, you are absolutley right, I was not suggesting the contrary.
according to Dr. Pappas, a PHD chemist, it makes little difference.
ah, that is what I must be doing wrong, I store all of my materials out in the sun
most essential oils are photochemically inactive in the visible light spectrum, so clear bottles are fine
it certainly sounds like an interesting and fun experiment.
Condiment Junkie, I do not know for sure, but it is not too high
my friend of mine who is a bow hunter wears an activated carbon fabric camo suit, all he does
is put in in the clothes dryer for 10...
well activated carbon fabric would work, the fabric will absorb the odor until it reaches its capacity
and will hold on to it as you mentioned, then to release that captured odor, you could simply...
good explanation Bill,
especially on the point of risking the dilution of the product in Bricklaya's case.
unless he has a way of concentrating the final product ?
other than the cost of olive oil, there is certainly nothing wrong with using that,
I think my choice would be sunflower oil, or another mild lighter fixed oil.
Maybe try a few different maceration...
saturation would not apply when both materials are of the same state of matter, in this case both liquids.
you can add 1ml of lemon oil to 999ml of aqueous ethanol and you can add 1ml...
BA = Benzyl Alcohol, I am thinking
indeed mumsy, I will certanily post here what he finds
pretty cool mumsy, I sent the Arabic pdf to a friend who reads and writes in Arabic
well there are a number of ambergris odor profiles / notes,
Gunther Ohloff describes the relevant odor qualities of ambergris as;
real ambergris tincture will never provide an amber note....that is not what real ambergris is used for.
as far as how much cetalox to use, it would depend on how much of it's note...
your right Bill,
also consider 1944 was during the war, who could afford that expensive of a perfume....
as a comparison,
civet tincture was 67.00 per kilo
musk tincture, tonquin grain was...
but then in the 1000 gram example, only 3 grams of ambergris is used...
that would be would be 75.00 of ambergris at todays retail price, or 36.00 of ambergris wholesale.
so 7.50 per...
when ambergris tincture was commonly used [years ago], the rule of thumb was 73.5 percent of ambergris tincture
of the fragrance concentration, so if one would have made a 20% EDP, then for every 20...
there should be no need to use benzyl benzoate or anything other than aqueous ethanol when tincturing raw civet paste.
having said that, tincturing civet paste is not as easy as it might...
i am not sure when or why actual percent figures got assigned to tinctures,
as at best they are ball park numbers, as an example with ambergris,
in the past, 30 grams of ambergris...
actually the yield is quite high for ambergris absolute, over 80% assuming one is not using soft black ambergris.
also ambergris absolute is solid, not a viscous clear fluid.
if it is the clear so called ambergris CO2, it is not real
the bright yellow inside doesn't indicate ambergris, your piece is almost the same as this, which was palm oil.