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  1. Replies
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    Re: Nitro Musks and their effect

    David, could it have been musk tibetene ?
    I seem to recall that had a dryness to it
  2. Replies
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    993

    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    gottcha,

    do you need a lot ? if not I have some left from a project, maybe 20 grams perhaps, could send you some ?
    it was from Vigon about 6 years ago
  3. Replies
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    993

    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    Paul,
    this is probably a dumb question, but why the exaltone from muskrat, rather than what is made now?
    I only messed with this in the hopes of coming up with the dihydro-civetone
  4. Replies
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    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    yes, thats what we had nuggets, maybe they serve yankies the scaps ?
  5. Replies
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    993

    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    Chris,
    I have eaten gator down south, it is actually very good.
  6. Replies
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    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    Paul, The dried glans are no good, you need to work with fresh glands, you also need to make sure
    the glands are whole and in the preservative only. [Sodium Benzoate]

    forgot to mention,
    If you...
  7. Replies
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    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    so only 2% of a purified extract of the glands are the macrocyclic ketones [the mixed musks], the other 98% are the corresponding alcohols.

    so while you are correct, it is possible to oxidise the...
  8. Replies
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    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    Paul, why do you say that ?
  9. Replies
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    993

    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    haha, that is the price per pound
  10. Replies
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    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    jfrater,

    Alligators have two sets of scents glands, although they have been called musk glands there have been no macrocyclic musk compounds identified.
    the slight rose scent is overpowered by a...
  11. Replies
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    993

    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    Chris, if you have ever smelled a tarsal gland from a deer you would know there is nothing there for use in perfumery.
    I have worked with and studied deer / animal materials for 40 years, there is...
  12. Replies
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    993

    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    Only species of Moschus genus have a musk gland.

    All species in the Cervidae family have scent glands, of which the the most easily
    perceived scent comes from tarsal glands, and is of no value...
  13. Replies
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    Re: Pre-fixing perfumers alcohol

    pre fixing alcohol was really deodorization, ethanol distillation and rectification methods back then were very crude as compared
    to modern day distillations, if you have ever smelled real...
  14. Replies
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    Re: IFRA Regulations - A simple question

    cheech,

    form a LLC for your perfume company, and find a reasonable product liability insurance, depending on your state, it might run a few hundred dollars a year,
    and forget about getting sued....
  15. Replies
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    Re: IFRA Regulations - A simple question

    End up in the street? you can't be serious.
  16. Replies
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    6,334

    Re: Odeur de Champignon

    I will have to relabel my frankincense resin and benzoin resin tinctures, to solutions then, as well as all of the other resin tinctures.
  17. Replies
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    Re: Physicists / chemists wanted

    here is an interesting read;
    http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3574685/pdf/sensors-13-00463.pdf
  18. Replies
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    6,334

    Re: Odeur de Champignon

    David,
    maybe I used the wrong word, frankincense tears is the tree resin or the starting material as you mention.
  19. Replies
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    6,334

    Re: Odeur de Champignon

    would this not be dependent on ones definition of a tincturing process as well as what material was tinctured?

    for example frankincense tears, they dissolve in a few hours even faster if the...
  20. Replies
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    Re: Physicists / chemists wanted

    Bill, with all do respect I would disagree,
    this certainly would pertain to perfumery, in fact evaporation curves have been studied for years in terms of how a fragrance is constructed.
    although I...
  21. Replies
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    Re: Vibration Theory of Smell

    Implausibility of the vibrational theory of olfaction
    http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2015/04/20/1503054112.full.pdf
  22. Re: Making perfume basics. Fragrance alcohol and water. Any formula?

    really pretty sad, how people are treated here.
  23. Replies
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    Re: Roll-on perfume

    There are only a few cents each, however the minimum order amount is crazy, like 10,000
    those are the glass dabbers made for ASAQ, if you are familiar with that house, they are made in China
    and...
  24. Replies
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    Re: Roll-on perfume

    I use these glass stoppers

    35957
  25. Replies
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    @Fables
    agree completely

    The heavy handed moderation was supposedly stopped, but now if one disagrees or points out inaccuracies
    with the so called appointed experts or a few that just suck up...
  26. Replies
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    Re: Perfumers certification

    Xeryus1881,

    perhaps check with a perfume society in the country where you live, but as an example
    here in the US, the American Society of perfumers, you must be invited to join, a perfumer is...
  27. Re: Need your Opinion- Should I Offer Robertet Naturals for Presale Perfumer Supply House

    Is the cost of their Santalol out of the question for your purchase?
  28. Thread: Truffles

    by luigi_g
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    Re: Truffles

    very nice,

    they sure are an incredible for cooking
  29. Thread: Truffles

    by luigi_g
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    Re: Truffles

    looks very nice mumsy,

    so English Black truffle, never heard of that type, are they similar to french or italian types
  30. Thread: Truffles

    by luigi_g
    Replies
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    Re: Truffles

    James,

    You can slice and tincture the truffles, the tincture is amazing, I use the black Italian winter truffles.
    Biolandes also sells a black truffle infusion, which is a tincture, not as stong...
  31. Re: Confusion about citrus essential oils (cold pressed vs. distilled vs. folded vs. terpeneless vs.

    PA, sells the reconstructed bergamot by Givauden, which is really nice.
  32. Re: Confusion about citrus essential oils (cold pressed vs. distilled vs. folded vs. terpeneless vs.

    2manyhobies,

    are you opposed to using synthetics, there are a few real nice synthetic bergamots out there
  33. Re: Confusion about citrus essential oils (cold pressed vs. distilled vs. folded vs. terpeneless vs.

    David this will clear things up;

    http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22250748

    Chemical analysis showed that ?-terpinene degrades rapidly, forming allylic epoxides and p-cymene
    as the major...
  34. Re: Confusion about citrus essential oils (cold pressed vs. distilled vs. folded vs. terpeneless vs.

    all I was pointing out is you will not get p-Cymene from Limonene auto-oxidation / degradation / poor lemon oil storage.

    p-Cymene however will form as oxidative product due to degradation / poor...
  35. Re: Confusion about citrus essential oils (cold pressed vs. distilled vs. folded vs. terpeneless vs.

    it was my understanding para-cymene is the oxidative product of gama-terpinene, rather than from limonene.
  36. Re: Ceramic top of a heated stirrer that I'd like cleaner

    I use a ceramic stove top cleaner, works well, barkeepers friend or the like, sometimes a little peroxide will help
  37. Replies
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    Re: Sourcing Rum Absolute

    Paul,

    buy the 151 rum and salt it out, I did that last year for a custom whiskey perfume, I salted out devil's cut Bourbon and got it close to 96%
  38. Replies
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    Re: Question about tinctures and oil solubility

    don't know what your oil base is, or if you could choose one,
    but one solution would be to use fractionated coconut oil, it is alcohol soluble.
  39. Re: How to use Civet, and not end up with an old lady scent?

    @Bill,

    very diluted skatole will have a certain floral aspect,

    but to your question, as far as the sweetness and the main floral notes,
    think about auto-degradation and esterfication, then...
  40. Re: How to use Civet, and not end up with an old lady scent?

    your welcome Paul
  41. Re: How to use Civet, and not end up with an old lady scent?

    so if you want to build just the macrocyclic musk base use

    5 - 10 parts exaltone - per your needed profile
    1 part civetone
    1 part cyclohexadecanone a.k.a. iso muscone

    but that will not give...
  42. Re: How to use Civet, and not end up with an old lady scent?

    @AMAR_420,
    just curious why you mentioned civet is a "precious (and rare) material" ?
  43. Re: How to use Civet, and not end up with an old lady scent?

    in higher quality civet, cyclopentadecanone, a.k.a. exaltone is found in much higher quantities than civetone, in some cases 20 times the amount of civetone,
    and in some farms, dihydrocivetone is...
  44. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    Bill,

    I read once that the harsh distillation of rosewood causes the racemic linalool, I suppose due to the high of heat and or excess pressure.
  45. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    maybe it is the civet your using Bill?

    2% civet tincture is very sweet and floral, no barnyard....
  46. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    this was my last batch;


    bugouate - bergamont - 60 6 * - sicilian
    citron - lemon - 3.0 .3 * - cold pressed italian
    lavande - lavendar - 17.0 1.7 * - 40/42 france
    B. d. R. - bois de...
  47. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    mumsy,

    did you use oak moss, or tree moss abs,

    I made a batch using some old pine tree moss and a really good opoponax resinoid, checking today
    I get the same powder as my 1950's version.

    I...
  48. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    mumsy,
    this is what i think perhaps;

    60 - Bergamot
    03 - Lemon
    17 - Lavender
    25 - B d R (not sure what this is) = bois de rose = rosewood
    05 - Coriander
    03 - Neroli petals
    01 - Mint or...
  49. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Bill,

    Jicky was known for it's high dose of civet....
    Shocking used even a higher dose years later
  50. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Todd,
    it seems it could be Jean Carles, it is also interesting he did Shocking in 1937, which was another perfume with a high dose of civet....
    the right side also mentions formula by Henry Robert,...
  51. Replies
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    Re: Classic Fougere Proportions?

    David,

    did you like brut back when it first came out, that was my goto fragrance in 1966 and 67
  52. Replies
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    2,142

    Re: When a formulation calls for "resinoid"...

    maceration of the tears in sandalwood oil works very well, no stickiness
  53. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    Happy perfuming, Irina !!
  54. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    bill,

    does the percent matter?

    his statement " ...the molecule that makes up ambrofix"
    to me this reads as;
    ambrofix is one molecule and it is the same as the molecule found in ambergris
    ...
  55. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    interesting Bill,

    chris made this statement
    "However what I can say is that natural ambergris,
    even of very high quality, does not contain more than about 2% of the
    molecule that makes up...
  56. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    well chris if enantiomerically pure (-)-ambrox is irrelevant, then I have really nothing more to say
  57. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    so chris,

    do you have any information that would suggest ambrofix is enantiomerically pure (-)-ambrox ?
  58. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    interchangeable in terms of scent profile, Trufflehunter
    if so, then not to my nose, I prefer cetalox, of course I suppose it also depends on the fragrance type....

    to me ambroxan is a bit too...
  59. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    Trufflehunter, I found cetalox quite nice as well, maybe 6 years ago I also got some cetalox Laevo from vigon that was even nicer
  60. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    it is not, Chris, look at this
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1016071.html
    that is ambroxan, aka ambrofix, now look at the molecule

    then compare that molecule to ambroxide aka ambrox...
  61. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    yes, it is Pears,
    Ambroxan however is a trade / brand name and it is not identical to (-)-ambrox / (-)-Ambroxide
    as far as I know.
  62. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    that was a typo, your post mentioned ambrofix
    my post should have read ambrofix is not found in ambergris, of course ambroxan is not as well.
    the molecule in ambergris is (-)-ambrox aka...
  63. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    don't know if this helps you with your formula Pears,
    but here is a GC/MS of an aged ambergris tincture

    32128
  64. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    natural ambergris does not contain any ambroxan.
  65. Re: Smelly game....... then smelly swaps (For after the blind sniff game)

    if you have never smelled the perfume, how could one begin to create a perfume that will be nearest to the real thing?
  66. Replies
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    Re: What The Hell Makes Joop! Homme So Powerful?

    there is also;

    eugenol
    hydroxycitronellal

    two enhancers - modifiers
    a good bit of lyral
    farnesol
  67. Replies
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    Re: When a formulation calls for "resinoid"...

    David,

    you are refering to Benzyl Benzoate or Benzyl Alcohol as a solvent when working with frankincense resinoid
    rather than Benzyl Benzoate or Benzyl Alcohol used as a solvent to produce...
  68. Replies
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    Re: When a formulation calls for "resinoid"...

    good question Irina,

    there is little info to find, I would certainly think there is a very tiny amount of hexane or the other hydro-carbon solvent remaining
    albeit trace amounts as most absolutes...
  69. Replies
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    Re: When a formulation calls for "resinoid"...

    hi Irina,

    am thinking the MPG was added as a carrier, frankincense resinoid, and the like are not pourable.

    as too the exact solvent, I suppose it would depend on who / where is is made.
    but I...
  70. Replies
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    Re: When a formulation calls for "resinoid"...

    Irina,

    resinoids are essentially concretes, hydrocarbon solvents are used, hexane, petroleum ether....

    there are also washed resinoids, which are ethanol washed products of the above first...
  71. Re: Oilahuasca & Serotonin From Nature & Lucid Dreams

    David, you made me smile today!
  72. Re: Oilahuasca & Serotonin From Nature & Lucid Dreams

    am I just overly dense today ?? what does any of this have to do with perfumery?
  73. Replies
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    977

    Re: German GC page, Is this of any use to us?

    hey Paul,
    just a thought before you buy a GC/MS, maybe write/email Dr.Pappas, he might have one or could get one for you?
    he is usually very helpful to perfumers
  74. Replies
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    Re: German GC page, Is this of any use to us?

    I think your right Bill
  75. Replies
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    977

    Re: German GC page, Is this of any use to us?

    Paul,

    that is not a GC/MS, that is a result from a Thin-layer chromatography test.
  76. Re: Is THIS Ambergris? (Old Fritzsche Brothers vial)

    cheers,

    well, yes, ambergris absolute is like a hard hard wax, or if this was the resinoid, it would have been
    extremely thick, but pourable when warmed as the resinoid has a small amount of...
  77. Re: Is THIS Ambergris? (Old Fritzsche Brothers vial)

    mumsy,

    I believe this is the real deal, if it was the 'Artificial' product, they always labeled it with Artificial, printed on the label.

    also this was not a tincture, this was ambergris grey...
  78. Re: Storage of liquid soap or lotion scented with essential oils

    David, you are absolutley right, I was not suggesting the contrary.
  79. Re: Storage of liquid soap or lotion scented with essential oils

    according to Dr. Pappas, a PHD chemist, it makes little difference.
    https://www.facebook.com/notes/essential-oil-university/colored-glass-bottles-and-essential-oils/10152309479793083
  80. Re: Storage of liquid soap or lotion scented with essential oils

    ah, that is what I must be doing wrong, I store all of my materials out in the sun
  81. Re: Storage of liquid soap or lotion scented with essential oils

    most essential oils are photochemically inactive in the visible light spectrum, so clear bottles are fine
  82. Re: A material/fabric that absorbs aroma and then smells of that aroma (for an hour at least)

    Condiment Junkie,
    it certainly sounds like an interesting and fun experiment.
  83. Re: A material/fabric that absorbs aroma and then smells of that aroma (for an hour at least)

    Condiment Junkie, I do not know for sure, but it is not too high
    my friend of mine who is a bow hunter wears an activated carbon fabric camo suit, all he does
    is put in in the clothes dryer for 10...
  84. Re: A material/fabric that absorbs aroma and then smells of that aroma (for an hour at least)

    well activated carbon fabric would work, the fabric will absorb the odor until it reaches its capacity
    and will hold on to it as you mentioned, then to release that captured odor, you could simply...
  85. Re: alcohol not pulling all of the essence from oil

    good explanation Bill,

    especially on the point of risking the dilution of the product in Bricklaya's case.
    unless he has a way of concentrating the final product ?
  86. Re: alcohol not pulling all of the essence from oil

    other than the cost of olive oil, there is certainly nothing wrong with using that,
    I think my choice would be sunflower oil, or another mild lighter fixed oil.
    Maybe try a few different maceration...
  87. Re: alcohol not pulling all of the essence from oil

    Bricklaya,

    saturation would not apply when both materials are of the same state of matter, in this case both liquids.
    you can add 1ml of lemon oil to 999ml of aqueous ethanol and you can add 1ml...
  88. Replies
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    Re: How to make synthetic perfume

    Paul,

    BA = Benzyl Alcohol, I am thinking
  89. Re: A 13thC Apothecarys delight for those who can read Arabic

    indeed mumsy, I will certanily post here what he finds
  90. Re: A 13thC Apothecarys delight for those who can read Arabic

    pretty cool mumsy, I sent the Arabic pdf to a friend who reads and writes in Arabic

    thanks
  91. Replies
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Trufflehunter,

    well there are a number of ambergris odor profiles / notes,

    Gunther Ohloff describes the relevant odor qualities of ambergris as;

    1. Earthy
    2. Marine
    3. Tobacco
    4. Woody
  92. Replies
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Trufflehunter,
    real ambergris tincture will never provide an amber note....that is not what real ambergris is used for.
    as far as how much cetalox to use, it would depend on how much of it's note...
  93. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    your right Bill,

    also consider 1944 was during the war, who could afford that expensive of a perfume....

    as a comparison,

    civet tincture was 67.00 per kilo
    musk tincture, tonquin grain was...
  94. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    indeed, Bill,
    but then in the 1000 gram example, only 3 grams of ambergris is used...
    that would be would be 75.00 of ambergris at todays retail price, or 36.00 of ambergris wholesale.
    so 7.50 per...
  95. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    when ambergris tincture was commonly used [years ago], the rule of thumb was 73.5 percent of ambergris tincture
    of the fragrance concentration, so if one would have made a 20% EDP, then for every 20...
  96. Re: Tincturing strength questions. Enlightenment needed please.

    bill,

    there should be no need to use benzyl benzoate or anything other than aqueous ethanol when tincturing raw civet paste.
    having said that, tincturing civet paste is not as easy as it might...
  97. Re: Tincturing strength questions. Enlightenment needed please.

    julian35,

    i am not sure when or why actual percent figures got assigned to tinctures,
    as at best they are ball park numbers, as an example with ambergris,
    in the past, 30 grams of ambergris...
  98. Re: Classic perfumery accords and other basic exercises

    actually the yield is quite high for ambergris absolute, over 80% assuming one is not using soft black ambergris.
    also ambergris absolute is solid, not a viscous clear fluid.
  99. Re: Classic perfumery accords and other basic exercises

    if it is the clear so called ambergris CO2, it is not real
  100. Thread: Amber gris

    by luigi_g
    Replies
    20
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    1,389

    Re: Amber gris

    the bright yellow inside doesn't indicate ambergris, your piece is almost the same as this, which was palm oil.
    http://naturcymru.blogspot.com/2012/12/sorry-but-no-it-is-not-ambergris.html
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