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  1. Replies
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    Re: All eyes on niche

    The question is that niche is not growing due creativity. Creativity sells fragrances for a small group of people like us, who participate on forums and willing to discuss fragrances into something...
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    Re: All eyes on niche

    Well, if you consider the laws of supply and demand that you already mentioned, the market is not flooded already. If it was, we would witness and stagnation or decrease into the numbers of new...
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    Re: All eyes on niche

    Micro-niche already exhists. It's the artisan or indie segment.
  4. Re: Phenylethyl Alcohol in Nasal Product (Flonase)

    I could find this tough:

    " 3.3. For Use in Anti-microbial Solutions
    Phenethyl alcohol has been used for many years as a bactericide in pharmaceutical preparations, researchers have found...
  5. Re: Phenylethyl Alcohol in Nasal Product (Flonase)

    You are absolutely right, they are used as preservative, but couldn't find any reason of why this specific preservative.
  6. Re: Spoiler alert - Ponk club January Module 1 - Reveal - so don't look or mention it elsewhere

    David, what about the sandalwood nuance that i get on geraniol?
  7. Re: Phenylethyl Alcohol in Nasal Product (Flonase)

    Thank you Timon! I thought it might had some function with the cortisones...
  8. Re: Spoiler alert - Ponk club January Module 1 - Reveal - so don't look or mention it elsewhere

    I'm surprised with the revelation. I would think that the third one, Nerol, was citronellol due the lemongrass nuances. And i'm very intrigued that geraniol has sandalwood nuances to me. I thought...
  9. Phenylethyl Alcohol in Nasal Product (Flonase)

    Sometimes i get very surprised about how strong and accurate scent memories from childhood can be. I'm doing this year a course of perfumery here in Brazil which consists of 360 degree on the...
  10. Re: PONK - January blind sniff... odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post 1)

    I smelled a lot of different things this saturday on the perfumery course i'm participating and i'm sure that the material number 1 appeared in one of the muguet bases they showed. I'm puzzled...
  11. Re: PONK Module 2 - odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post1)

    I first sent my impressions to mumsy through email to see if i wouldn't spoil the fun with what i wrote. She thought it was ok for me to sharing it with the group right now, so i'm just posting my...
  12. Re: PONK Module 2 - odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post1)

    I'm not disagreeing about the fatigue itself, but if you are able to work around it the experience is revealing, at least for this set. But i know that smelling similar ingredients might produce what...
  13. Re: PONK Module 2 - odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post1)

    I think it can and it cannot be. You just need to smell them with a space between each order to not tire the nose. I'm enjoying smelling things in a series since doing this blindly is helping me...
  14. Re: PONK Module 2 - odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post1)

    I have already received mine as well. It was quite fast this time - i was surprised when i arrived home and had a box waiting for me and it was from the ponk club :) Well, i won't spoil the fun so i...
  15. Re: Plant that smells like green apples, roses, musk etc. How to extract the oils?

    If i would suspect of any aromachemical responsible for the green apple aroma i would search for esters in the gc-ms
  16. Re: Plant that smells like green apples, roses, musk etc. How to extract the oils?

    saving this, very cool link!
  17. Re: Plant that smells like green apples, roses, musk etc. How to extract the oils?

    I guess that if the leaves loose the scent when drying the volatiles might be water soluble so and evaporate.
  18. Re: Plant that smells like green apples, roses, musk etc. How to extract the oils?

    Some suppliers do describe acetaldehyde as apple like. The weird is that the article does list it as the main responsible for the apple smell on the leaves but it doesn't appear in the gc-ms
  19. Re: Plant that smells like green apples, roses, musk etc. How to extract the oils?

    I think you have a great plan for tincturing it that way desmond. Crushing certainly will help to release the volatiles and replenish them will make your alcohol saturate. Have you thought of leaving...
  20. Re: Plant that smells like green apples, roses, musk etc. How to extract the oils?

    About your extraction, are you trying to tincture which material? The roses, the hips, the leaves? And also, how much of the material did you put into your vodka?
  21. Re: Plant that smells like green apples, roses, musk etc. How to extract the oils?

    This is the famous Rosa Mosqueta, widely used for aging. The oil does have a musky aroma indeed like ambrette seed from what i remember. I know they extract the essential oil in seeds for wrinkles...
  22. Re: PONK - January blind sniff... odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post 1)

    I'm interested
  23. Re: PONK - January blind sniff... odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post 1)

    Mumsy, it was very revealing for me! Altough it was a quick sniff i could see some interesting links that i would never see if i knew what to check. Like the bitter chocolate nuance in methyl eugenol...
  24. Re: PONK - January blind sniff... odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post 1)

    I think that number one is something that is found in both Sandalwood and Rose. A link that i never checked before. I have a guess that seems to fit to the rest of descriptions, but i won't tell to...
  25. Re: PONK - January blind sniff... odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post 1)

    I want to receive all substances, even IFRA and UE restricted ones please. Number 4 was fun to detect and i'm surprised with which material is it.
  26. Re: PONK - January blind sniff... odour descriptions here (spoiler alert past post 1)

    I received my January box today :) It took a little bit long maybe due the customs here, but i'm happy it's here. A pic: 47646

    It's 10:22 PM here and i know i have to dip the blotters and observe...
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    Re: iso Butyl Quinoline

    I received a time ago 10 ml of Iso Butyl Quinoline from a friend. Don't know if it's diluted or not, but besides all the mentioned aspects of it there is something on its aroma that also reminds me...
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    Re: Amaryllis Headspace or chemical makeup?

    It doesn't help a lot, but i found this:

    http://www.cabdirect.org/abstracts/20143218004.html;jsessionid=0E9358E857935102C72DD2A6BE117D3D
  29. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    If there is a moderator seing my thread, i would ask if possible to be closed for not further commenting here. The subject was gone out of the original idea.
  30. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    This is your opinion, not mine. And while i do respect that, again i reply that this has nothing to do with what i asked. If this is not judging i don't know what is: "I think your anger and...
  31. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    I'm not interested in a job at IFF or Firmenich. Perfume is my passion and i want freedom to research whenever i want. You didn't tell anything new to me again, but i considered that since we have a...
  32. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Who are you to judge my intentions and frustrations? I understand that you might have a different view, but i didn't ask for that. I didn't ask either about if it's the better or worse method. Or if...
  33. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Too bad that this forum doesn't have the delete option. My questioning here is useless i guess.
  34. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    David, i bet do disagree. This is not a magic goose case or either a kill the magic of perfumery. Instead, it's mastering your pieces to really understanding. I'm not interested on only things like...
  35. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    The number of mixtures is as extensive as the number of data variables used for developing any statistical models. And you can indeed make predictions once you understand its dynamics. I'm pretty...
  36. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Chris, i was not expecting simple answers indeed, but more directions to research and develop my conclusions....
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    Re: Papyrus Flower Fragrance

    Me too, i have been coveting this for ages!
  38. Re: Help with diluting Mushroom (Cepes) Absolute!

    I have the same problem as yours, my cepes absolute is totally solid. Have you tried putting it on baigne marie for a short time? Just to make it dissolve on the alcohol. It is what i plan to do with...
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    Re: Papyrus Flower Fragrance

    I guess that what you want is this:

    https://hermitageoils.com/product/papyrus-absolute/

    I guess that they call it a flower absolute due this "Papyrus absolute is obtained by solvent extraction...
  40. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    I guess that this is due the sinergism and antagonism between aroma molecules. I'm trying to find more info about it, but it seems that i have aimed for a dark area with my questions.

    I suspect...
  41. Re: PONK - A 'nose' club - Blind nose training amongst ourselves. Anyone interested?

    I have made my subscription today :) For now i picked the basic membership since i'm more interested know in doing simple tests with the materials. It'll be very fun trying to understand without...
  42. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Perfect, i love chaos! There is something on chaos which seems fascinating to me. Maybe because i'm a little bit chaotic myself....
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    Re: Biolandes Artessence Bases

    But where can you purchase auram products?
  44. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    David, i don't want to prove anyone wrong, i believe that there are many ways of seeing the process. And yes, sensitive indeed, i scrambled the words
  45. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Let's say that i'm using this as a way of analysing a machine which is working and i would like to understand its pieces and how they work together. Fragrance is a system and as with other systems it...
  46. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Am i touching on a sensible subject without knowing? If so, my apologies, i was just curious about some technical guidances that would help me develop a way of composing that would makes sense to me.
  47. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Your comment now makes me think of why you cannot build a synthetic accord of a material based solely on the percentuals found in the headspace and gc analysis.
  48. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Adam, i imagine it would change, since it would be a system where each element is interacting. My aim with this is after smelling my materials separately and diluted, using technical information to...
  49. Re: PONK - A 'nose' club - Blind nose training amongst ourselves. Anyone interested?

    I can join in feb, there is no problem!
  50. Re: PONK - A 'nose' club - Blind nose training amongst ourselves. Anyone interested?

    I'm from Brazil, can i Join? It would be interesting training blindly the nose testing materials
  51. Thread: Cocaine Smell

    by rickbr
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    Re: Cocaine Smell

    I have a friend that commented the same thing.
  52. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Oh, i presumed the peaks indicated that each molecule didn't behave linearly when evaporating
  53. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Thank you so much, you helped me a lot! Well, i wasn't think in correlating the duration and perception of the materials, but using them as indications of the proportions i can use of each material....
  54. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    I guess you didn't understand what i want but based on the answer i have seen from you on the past, it's worthless trying to explain. So thank you anyway for your answer. I disagree with you anyway.
  55. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    But experimentation is kind of subjective and i was in search of objective parameters for those questions;
  56. Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    I have some doubts related to technical evaluations. Is there anyone that could help me?

    1. Can you predict how much a chemical will last and be noticed based on its vapor pressure and odor...
  57. Thread: Mousse de Saxe

    by rickbr
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    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    Costus and musk ambrette are free here and quite easy to find :)
  58. Thread: Mousse de Saxe

    by rickbr
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    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    Do you know if this can be confiscated? I can try to purchase for you and send you some. I have 20ml/20g and 100ml/100g options that are cheap.
  59. Thread: Mousse de Saxe

    by rickbr
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    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    Something that recently surprised me is that the three main nitromusks are found in a Brazillian soap supplier. Even the xylol which seems to be hard to find. I have examined Brazillian sanitary...
  60. Thread: Mousse de Saxe

    by rickbr
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    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    I feel this way too Mumsy, since we have a degree of freedom that commercial ones today don't have.
  61. Thread: Mousse de Saxe

    by rickbr
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    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    This thread is so amazing, reading all this information about DeLaire bases and expertise makes me wish have being a perfumer working for them on the golden age of perfumery. I can imagine how the...
  62. Re: Why commercial perfumery is more interesting than niche

    "Last year the weekly French magazine Le Nouvel Observateur published an interesting article about perfume creation called La Guerre des Nez (The War of the Nose). It featured a candid interview with...
  63. Re: Why commercial perfumery is more interesting than niche

    "Ultimately, categories and authors and novelty donít really matter in the slightest - itís all about the powerfully subjective, dare I say existential, experience one can glean from smelling a...
  64. Re: Why commercial perfumery is more interesting than niche

    Oh, there is a really amount of 'risk' in doing variations of modern chypres that you already know the formula guided by focus groups where people are presented with the pillar fragrances that are...
  65. Re: Why commercial perfumery is more interesting than niche

    Quality is a very wrong word that people keep using to access products without knowing that quality really means being able to always produce the product the same way without many deviations. Quality...
  66. Re: Why commercial perfumery is more interesting than niche

    I believe there is a big error on your article title: Why commercial perfumery COULD be more interesting than niche. I stress the could, because you cannot take few good fragrances from a plethora of...
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    David, why are they called fixed? I always had this curiosity. If you use a pre-diluted ingredient, does the solvent has to be an oil too?
  68. Replies
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    That was exactly what i was wanting to know. So, you usually don't freeze it. I was thinking if freezing wouldn't spoil the mixture
  69. Replies
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    Chris, chill at which temperature?
  70. Replies
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    So, you have to options: try to remove the fat content or switch to coffee absolute instead of working with the CO2
  71. Replies
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    David, i believe that the problem is not that the material is good, it's related to this (extracted from Hermitage Oils website)

    Whilst many companies on the internet claim to offer Coffee...
  72. Replies
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    Re: An oil does not mix into the blend?

    It's certainly the coffee. I have made a mixture with coffee and this also happened with my experiment. A friend told me that with coffee you have to blend it first with alcohol, let the alcohol...
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    Re: Perfumerbook.com by Glen O. Brechbill

    I find it interesting due the compendium of many information. Still, i ended never exploring deeper because it seems to me more like drawing notes and personal material than a full book - it lacks...
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    Re: IFF commercially launches Amber Xtreme

    I want some as soon as you start to sell it.
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    Re: Anosmic to sandalwood recreations

    I just fund this thread searching for molecules related to Sandalwood, pretty interesting thread!

    A doubt: if sandalwood molecules induces such an instant fatigue due their powerful profile, how...
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    Re: NEW: Habit Rouge Dress Code

    I wouldn't trust wasser words or interpretations on it. To Mon Exclusif he said that it was like a modern Jicky and there is anything of Jicky on it.
  77. Replies
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    Re: NEW: Habit Rouge Dress Code

    I'm glad that you appreciated my review :) I received a sample by a friend before the launching and decided to write about it. I can say that if you enjoy the original you'll like this one. It's...
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    Re: Blond Leather Accord

    Speaking of leather, iso butyl quinoline was quite a surprise for me because undiluted it doesn't smell like leather at all. It reminds me the smell of crayons on my childhood, the smell of them in...
  79. Thread: Dihydrocoumarin

    by rickbr
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    Re: Dihydrocoumarin

    Oh, i found it. The brand that sells it is famous for doing mainstream dupes for very reasonable prices. The curious is that they usually are very close to the creation they are cloning.I believe...
  80. Thread: Dihydrocoumarin

    by rickbr
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    Re: Dihydrocoumarin

    I thought that you were comparing to some gc-ms analysis of tonka beans
  81. Thread: Dihydrocoumarin

    by rickbr
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    Re: Dihydrocoumarin

    Chris, i couldn't find any reference to it procuded here in Brazil, aren't you sure it's a relative to this plant?

    One that is not from here but it's from south america and it's lovely is...
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    Re: Are we making WET DOG perfume yet?

    That explain wny some almond perfumes sometimes smell like wet dog.
    A fragrance that smells a lot like dog, but after bath for me, is Lalique Amethyst
  83. Thread: Dihydrocoumarin

    by rickbr
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    Re: Dihydrocoumarin

    I know, i have almost 1kg of tonka with me to do a tincture :) I keep smelling the box, the aroma is gorgeous.

    Are you sure that your natural coumarin comes from dipteryx odorata? If the came from...
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    Re: Biolandes Artessence Bases

    I found odd the mimosa one. But the Neroli Base for One kg wasn't that bad i think. They let me purchase amounts in 300g, so it would be like 90 dollars,
  85. Replies
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    Re: Biolandes Artessence Bases

    Some are more expensive and some are more affordable David. The Mimosa one, for instance, is 1300 dollars i guess and the neroli one is 300 dollars the kg. But i was curious because i never saw no...
  86. Re: Newbie revisiting botanical musk accord and inviting critique

    I have a supplier here in Brazil that sells what they call a Musk Blend Accord. They don't list the amounts, but they say that it's made of:

    Vetiver
    Ambrette
    White Agarwood
    Labdanum
    Ginger...
  87. Thread: Dihydrocoumarin

    by rickbr
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    Re: Dihydrocoumarin

    http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng/EssentialOils29/EssentialOils29.htm#Tonka
  88. Thread: Dihydrocoumarin

    by rickbr
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    Re: Dihydrocoumarin

    Bo Jensen says this about Tonka Bean, Coumarin, Dihydrocoumarin:

    Tonka beans
    Dipteryx odorata (Fabaceae)
    The seeds from the large tree Dipteryx odorata growing in northern South America are...
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    Biolandes Artessence Bases

    Has anyone here already tried or tested the reconstitutions that biolandes sells?

    I don't know why the company doesn't list them, but the supplier i contacted here send me a list with those...
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    Re: Anyone know a source for Givaudan Chocovan?

    Since they have an international website, i think they might accept orders from abroad too:

    http://www.citral.com.br/e_index.php
  91. Replies
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    Re: Anyone know a source for Givaudan Chocovan?

    I was able to find someone here in Brazil selling the chocovan base. They accept 300g orders. The price is 695 dollars per kg
  92. Replies
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    Re: New shop for raw materials online!

    Congratulations for the website! I always wanted to find someone offering Jonquille at 10% for me to try. Thanks to you now i had an option - made my first order with you :)
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    Just a Huge Thank you

    Well, i see that i have sometimes made questions, reupded threads and even bothered some inbox. Today, i would like to say thank you all for this wonderful space. The world of synthetics and natural...
  94. Re: Jasmine flower accord , cis jasmone, methyl jasmonate

    Good to know David, because it's quite expensive! I think i should try to import the cis Jasmone so. Your description that even tiny amounts do wonders on a formula got me curious.
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    Re: Jasminum Flexile Base Accord

    Thanks for sharing, it seems very interesting! I hope you end doing an accord for narcissus too :)
  96. Re: Jasmine flower accord , cis jasmone, methyl jasmonate

    Regarding Jasmone, does anyone has an idea of what is the difference between cis jasmone and iso jasmone? I have the latter available for purchase here but not the former
  97. Replies
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    Re: Vintage Dianthine Base Formula

    Thank you so much for sharing!
  98. Replies
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    Re: Grateful for an endowment to PK Perfumes

    Wow, what a gift Paul, congratulations! Besides Chanel No 5, any other vintage known fragrance on the book?
  99. Considering what Guerlain has been launching...

    Considering what Guerlain has been launching lately, i guess that she has much more freedom and can do a more variety output at Cartier. I believe she is on the right place now.
  100. That was fantastic Persolaise! Mathilde Laurent...

    That was fantastic Persolaise! Mathilde Laurent was always one of my favorite perfumers and seeing what she thinks and believes mades me love her even more. She has been doing a very high quality...
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